Originally Posted by nickh (Post 587230)

Todd I have brand set of standard rod bearings child & Albert's that have been polydyn coated if you want them? They are free to you

Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376 (Post 587258)

Every time I shut my cars down for any length of time after using C-12, I fog the motor. That means to fire it up, open the throttle with the engine running and put a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil or even plain old ATF down the carb. When a puff of smoke appears out the headers,shut it off. The oily film prevents rust from appearing on the valve faces and seats and the cylinder walls. C-12 is a very dry fuel and it leaves metal surfaces unprotected from humidity in the atmosphere causing rust. I imagine Florida has more than its share of humidity year round.

Originally Posted by Kenny McCoy (Post 587301)

C11 is faster, fog motor with WD-40 after engine cools down use starter button open throttle blades crank it over for about 10 seconds works good in Florida.

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus (Post 587369)

Todd, we see some rust issues with C12 if the engine hasn't been run for a while. C11 is a 'drier' fuel, for lack of a better term, so things can rust even quicker.

Fogging with Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, Stabil fogging oil, etc. works well. -Al

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan (Post 587375)

Thanks Al, Keith Bennet warned me about it up front, I didn't fog it. I'll have to fog it or change fuels all together.

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel (Post 587453)

Cast iron heads rust very quickly and easily especially around the exhaust valves. All the after race smog techniques mentioned are good. One more that helps is to cap your headers at the collectors. The plastic caps used on threaded pipe works well if you can find a size that fits. Large Electrical conduit or black pipe sometimes has caps that fit. My buddy was an electrician foreman on big jobs and had those caps off his job sites.