Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I have used a spring compressor designed like this to remove/reinstall uncut Moroso drag springs on my fox several times. Access to the tool through the hole in the center of the spring perch on the a-arm, and make sure you get as many coils as possible included in the compression.
Btw, keep up the good work, you will have lots of fun with your Mustang!

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Compressors never worked for me. I use an old fashion 3-4 foot crow bar with an angled tip.

I lower the front of the control arm while it's bolted onto the k-member. I put the spring in place (it will only seat about half way in at the bottom, maybe less). I wedge the crow bar into the control arm spring pocket (using the angled tip pointed downward) and push the spring backward while jacking up the front of the control arm. Reinstall the struts bolts. Move to the next spring.

You can get springs in your car in about 10 minutes this way.

I know it goes without saying, but you need to be careful. Make sure that you and the guy jacking the control arm are not standing in front of the spring in case it decides to go airborne.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I have one of these, made a flat plate on the hex end, and went up thru the bottom of the control arm,hooking the upper hooks on the spring.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yep, that's mine. I removed two of the hooks to make it fit in the spring and reconnected them inside it to finish the job. Lots of painful short radius wrench work.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Thanks guys - Our spring compressor consists of flat plates and has been used on all springs installed in Chevrolets...I suspect it will work just as well on the Ford. I have never installed an uncut Moroso spring in any car myself. Hope these springs work out the first go round.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps476f35d4.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Car is at a friends machine shop for the roll bar finish welding. I'll tackle the front-end when he is finished.

Let's talk headers - While I'm not at that point yet I ran across a good deal...if they will work on this combo. A used set of long tube stainless Kooks, 1-7/8" primaries, 3.5" collectors, $550...to large for this engine?

What are you fellows using on similar cars?

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I can't speak to the clearances in your car, but I have Hooker Super Comp long tube headers on the 302 in my 68 coupe and getting at the header bolts is beyond painful. I have looked up header bolt solutions on the Net and I keep coming up with "Header Clearance Issue on Vintage Camaro" in the Ford searches so maybe it's not badge specific. The bolts to the lead side of the pipe aren't too bad but the ones on the back of each bend are super tuff to get to. I have a mix of bolts depending on what I could get to fit.

Power or manual steering? Better clearance on manual boxes.

Mine are 1 5/8 by 3 1/2 and I can't imagine larger ones on that engine. People do it but they cut the shock towers out, too.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Been a while since I've been involved, but I'm pretty sure there's no cutting shock towers in Stock Eliminator.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Well, with no part number disclosed I did a little deeper research on Kooks. It appears those headers would not fit with a stock K-member and likely would not even bolt-up to standard port heads. I was also advised that overall those headers were way too large for this combo.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

For what it is worth, my research indicates that 13/4 is as big as you would want to go with stock heads, and that is with mufflers providing back pressure. 15/8 open with stock heads seems to be the standard. I am talking about long tubes. I am looking at 13/4 with full exhaust for Pure Stock.