Re: Dumbo The Flying Elephant
Destroyed the ProTrans in the pink car. Sent trans to Joel’s, installed spare, all in getting car ready for the backup role. New plugs, re wire, (just for you Cody), adjust valves. What’s this? Very little compression on at least two holes one on each side. Leak test was double our President approval rating, so now it’s off with the heads........of the car.
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Larry,
I don't mean to LIKE your blow by number but your analogy is priceless. So I must say you were still very quick with less than a totally sealed piece under the hood. That Pink Pack is a bad *** racer. Kudos to you. |
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When the car broke the trans, the rev limiter did not catch it soon enough and bent a few valves. Of course some on each head. With the damage, it would be lucky to start and would not be able to run the index.
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Hope you get everything ready by Spring
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Living in the middle of nowhere I try to keep a good parts inventory. So far I have enough parts for the first head. In a few days I should be smelling smoke.
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Do you still have the pickup ?
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Yes
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Had to cut down face of valve to get chamber cc just a we bit larger.
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After we get the car fixed and the new shocks on, we have to rescale the pink car so we will be confident it will go straight as a "B" car.
I wonder what the weight is of a ZL1 Camaro is on the AMA Spec Sheet? |
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The "Pink Car" has best 60' efficiency for any class. That is for me one of the core elements for being elite class. Dumbo's right up there. Larry gets it. Patsy too!
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Agree Frank, Larry and Marshall both have their cars doing amazing 60’ times.
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Do you leak check with the engine dead cold or after running it? |
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Cold. it turned over to easy
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Back to Dumbo. On further tear down the pull down side of the crankpin needs to look just a little better. The bearings look great only one spot to look at and figure out why.
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Now I have two spots on two different rods but the spots are in the same place, at the parting line where the wash, may not be the correct terminology, area is on the bearings. I found no sign of trash, burrs, or whiteness marks on rod i d or shell. CB663HXN
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Do the marks correspond with either end of the bolt? How far from the parting line are they?
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The the damage spots are on the upper bearing shell at the part line on the chamfered side of the rod. I got a double ball micrometer and checked thickness at the edge opposite the tang and the thickness change was.0018” in the width of .785”. Vertical clearance is fine, it just about a .125”wide spot that is protruding into the ID of the rod clearance area that is being removed mechanically exposing the steel bearing shell to the crankshaft
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Ordered a new set of bearings so maybe I can make a good set out of two sets that I will have. Also have a set of AOL coming to look at and see what kind of clearance we will have.
Another shop kind enough to let me use their double ball micrometer to check my bearings. Wednesday I will have my own ball micrometer. My old drag racing advisor Richard Carter said “If you have to borrow something more than once, you need to get one” |
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I'm lucky enough to be able to call an engine professional and get their advice on how to proceed. The new ACL race bearings did pass our new incoming QC test for edge variance. I still have to check for clearance and weight difference for balance. The ACL parts a just a little bit wider than the CB663's.
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Got my new CB663 XXX bearings today but my new micrometer won’t be here until Wednesday. Odds should be in my favor that I get some good bearings.
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I think I have King's in the pink car. What ever is in there its goin on its third season.
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I received a new set of CB663xxx and they are good enough to install in a rod and check for clearance. Each shell got checked six places along the part lines for thickness variance and recorded in the Dumbo book
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What did you see for differences?
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Out of the 96 places checked .0588” to .0595”, so thick to thin was .0007 and no shell had a variation of more than .0004.
Now they will be installed in the rods and checked for vertical clearance and taper. If all of that is ok Dumbo will have a fresh set of bearings. Hats off to the real engine builders that have to fight this kind of stuff on a daily basis. |
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Did you also order a set of King's? You may be surprised at the difference. I won't say that they are the cat's meow, but I like what I see when stuff comes in for freshen ups. The Clevite's are probably good enough for 85% (or more) of the engines out there, but I usually see better consistency with King, and sometimes ACL, depending on application.
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I have two CB 663's and one set of ACL so I should be able to get something to work. If not I will get a set of Kings
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Got the pink car running yesterday after it being rewired and with all new Classic Instruments gages. I think we solved the occasional no start problem, a bad fuse block. For some reason I had another one on the shelf.
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Got the honing plates on Dumbo with the crank still in the block to check cylinder straightness. Bottom line is we have to do something different, the cylinders were everywhere. .002 tight at 2-8 o’clock,10-4 slightly better, 12-6 loose tight loose, and 3-9 not bad.
I should have quit a little over a year after we started racing, because then I knew most of the answers! |
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I believe that Larry has the Mopar aluminum block. I have had friends that faced the same problems. You can try to hone it straight, but after you run it, the dimensions are all over the place. 8 Darton sleeves would be the place to begin or take a 100 lb weight penalty and use the cast iron BGE block.
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The best is Steve Demirjian at Racing Engine Development in California. He is also the Engine Shop Manager of Darton and one of the foremost experts in sleeving blocks holding many patents on engine sleeves. http://www.raceenginedevelopment.com...odge-6-1-hemi/ |
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Hidden Horsepower episode on cylinder honing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyGw1zAQGZA However last time a checked and it is probably worse now, he had a thirteen week backlog on block work. |
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It maybe a case of the block is not strong enough for the cylinder pressure generated under full load. My guess, and it’s only a guess, that the cylinders balloon and contract every cycle and become not straight and out of round in time.
For now I’m learning the do’s and don’t of the engine. With few parts available I’m doing my best not to destroy anything. I believe better sleeves will change things. |
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With me weighing 300+ the iron block would have to make a lot more power for me to consider it. If it not on the list I can’t use it. I try to walk on the knife edge on the rules, but I always have a set of gaskets and I am fearless going to the barn. Been doing this 30 some years and have been good every time, but all it takes is one third of the thickness of a hair (.001”) on the wrong side of a number and I will be disqualified.
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With the block having 16 main studs and location sleeves for the caps removing the caps quickly use to be difficult. Solution was a Gen III cap puller from Arrow. It’s great
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Larry, If your weight and the car's weight does not change then all the iron block has to do is make enough HP to offset the difference in the weight between the 2 blocks. I do not know what the difference will be for those blocks. I do know that many years ago on a difference style engine / block making about 750 HP the iron block made about 15 more HP. Stan |
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