Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

It's looking like I will be purchasing a header then cutting flanges for individual tube mounting and cutting the primaries for slip-fit collectors.

Here you go Pony... http://www.ebay.com/itm/151471684683...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich, Pacesetter makes a nice 1 5/8" header for your car that fits well and has nice straight sections off the flange. Add a set of basic slip fit collectors (2 1/2") and I think you'd be in good shape. -Al

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I just went through "long tube headers" at Summit and it seems everything for 302 SBF that is larger than 1 5/8 is footnoted as being for aftermarket heads.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Hedman makes a good set. My first set lasted 16 years and those were coated after test fitting and making clearances. The tubes at the flange started cracking. They were 1 5/8 with 2 3/4 collectors. My new Hedmans are 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 with 3" collectors. No need to cut headers up. They are not cheap but they fit. With the port layout and the close proximity of the header bolts, some tubes you have to ding to get the bolts to fit.

Sean

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Thanks, those look better than anything else I've see and stainless to boot! I will be getting a set as soon as I pick up the car. BTW I am getting a 89 GT for Pure Stock this weekend!
Norman

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I haven`t tried any other headers yet, but on my 85 Mustang, I have a set of long tube "equal length" FlowTechs, which have 1 5/8" diameter. They fit well with the factory K member, clear my McLeod scattershield with no need for modifications, and they have a couple of slip tubes, but with the collectors welded to several tubes, no need for the collector tether nonsense. I install the engine with the passenger side header fully bolted up, with the clutch, scattershield, and starter motor installed, once the engines in, the drivers side header slips in from underneath, with 1 slip tube to clear the steering shaft. They even have decent ground clearance. The best thing is that they are priced less than most 5.0 "shorty" headers, plus they have O2 sensor bungs welded to the collectors. Great bang for the buck.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I'm not slacking folks...got the car home this afternoon with the roll bar welding finished.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd5d91eb1.jpg

Busted the front-end apart and I will remove the rubber bushings in the control arms in the morning. Need to locate some ball joints as one of the boots was torn. Once the front is done I can move toward getting that engine out. Btw, the spring compressor was a pita...a floor jack under the other control arm was much quicker/easier.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd6380b71.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4579a05d.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Works like a charm.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Going back together w/ uncut drag springs is a different story, for sure!
I put a set of uncut Eibach drag springs in my 87. I think I used a combination of the compressor and the jack, starting the nut on the balljoint, then lining up the bolt holes in the bushings.
It ended up sitting too high.
I got greedy and cut 1 1/2 coils off, sat too low. It was a lot easier to get them in, though!
I found another set (Both sets were new, unused, bought from guys on The Corral.) and cut 1 coil. The height was good.
My car is not an all-out drag car. If it were, I'd be concerned that by cutting the springs, I increased the stiffness too much, reducing the effectiveness of the weight transfer.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I'll be using the compressor going back in with these 4-cylinder springs...hoping they will be right the first go round. Lots of weight coming off the front of this car...bought a manual rack yesterday which is supposed to be around 30 pounds reduction. Got hijacked today for a Chinese ping pong table assembly from hell...I will be working on the car this Thanksgiving holiday.