Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
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These are the upper bushings I used in my 68 Impala I/S car. I got them from my friend Pat Henneberry, an old school racer from the sixties. he had these bronze bushing stock (which he used on his 68 Camaro Modified car which is still raced today) which I just had to chuck up on a lathe and cut to size for a press fit plus increase the center hole a little. These will be going in my 65 Impala stocker I am building now. These cost me $0 The front lower control arm bushing was a aluminum round stock which I chucked up on the lathe and machine to fit, pressed fit a bronze center bushing for the bolt to go through, which I also just added a grease fitting, they worked too. I have to make a new set for the 65 Impala.
Another high tech are the solid body bushings simply made out of that same aluminum round stock. They are 1/2 inch shorter than stock, effectively "lowering" the body 1/2 over the frame. I am glad I hang around guys like my friend Pat, they started racing when there wasn't a "Global West" or an Alf fella making all the parts for you. I fabricated a lot of parts and learned how to use a lathe, bridgeports and welders along the way. my 68 Impala was the first race car I built, people said It would be a parts breaker at 4100 lbs with a stick. Even though i only made 100 passes on car, no breakage with 7 tenths under. Will Lamprecht 1965 Impala H/I Stck |
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Andy, That right there is the key! Anyone that states they have done it all and knows it all. Has not done anything and doesn't know ###t either. There are a lot of good people here to help you. Good luck Sean |
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Andy, one thing I learned, I wanted to go Drag Racing, so I hung around drag racers, not baseball players, then I remained open, ask questions and overall remain teachable! When i think I know everything, I'm in trouble.
I also went to the track and looked at cars like mine. really looked, under and everything. Most everybody loves to talk about there cars and like to help. When i started running my 68 with the Jerico and McCleod clutch Jeff Lee (w the AMX) who post all the time on this forum helped me a lot, now i am looking for some help on how to run an Automatic successfully- I try to run my life remaining teachable too- your on the right track- Good Luck Will "Big 'ole chevy stocker" 65 Impala |
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Just hope that both side "center" in the same place. You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension. Take a look at some of the stuff for early Mustangs or Chevy II's One other thing..THICKER body bushings give you more room between the carb and the hood. |
Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
"Will, only problem I see with solid lowers is you can't pull the lower ball joint forward to gain positive caster..You'll have to do it all on the top.
Just hope that both side "center" in the same place. You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension. Take a look at some of the stuff for early Mustangs or Chevy II's" Doesn't apply to the chevelle. They use a conventional lower a-arm, no strut rod. You could get tricky and offset the center bore of the bushing if need be however. |
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I'm quoting Will with the full size 65 Impala |
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http://youtu.be/htU6nvWkRLY |
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I was just catching up on some of these post. What do you mean by- "You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension." Are you talking about a Heim type joint at the end of the strut rod where it goes through the frame up front? I will probaly use a rubber bottom bushing with the serrates removed, do you think this would be a better option so I can address the caster issue? Thanks for any input- Will Lamprecht Div 1 65 imp I/SA |
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Again, I've got no time to debate the same old sh_t with the same guy about a car that I sold 5 years ago, I've moved on long ago but for those that want to know the FACTS and the TRUTH, there's several threads here including this one... http://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=40441 just do a post search on that guy. |
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I thought this thread was about "Front End Suspension"
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For those like you that think they are special, claiming to build their own engines because you/they clean your parts, apply some assembly lube, check/set a few clearances, gap rings and torque a few bolts, this is for you... over at least the next 5 months, Tilburg's, Gulius's, Watters's, Patterson's, Bischoff's and other's engine shops phones will be ringing off the wall and their shops full of the engines for and from the biggest and winingest names in class racing just as will Sunset's, Reher Morrison's, Par's, Shafiroff's, Schimdt's and others with their shops full of and building engines for the who's who of super comp, gas, street and bracket racing. That said, YOU too buy your engine parts just like I do and the vast majority of class and bracket racers do. YOU too pay a machine shop to do your machine work just like I do and the vast majority of class and bracket racers do. YOU too pay to have your engine dyno'd just like I do and the vast majority of class and bracket racers do. So if it makes you feel smarter, makes you feel superior than the majority of us that don't, WE are ok with that and don't worry, we won't tell anyone the truth!.:p Further, last I checked when reading National Dragster, the NHRA doesn't award Wins, Wally's or $$ for those who's claim to fame is they built their engine! Fletcher along with the biggest names in NHRA Sportsman racing don't build their own engines but somehow, he just managed to win his 84th and 85th Wally. ;) Oh and btw, the vast majority of class and serious bracket racers don't build their cars, carbs, transmissions, converters and headers and neither do you!:p |
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1320 Racer: For your info, I do assemble my own engines and build my own transmissions. No, I don't think I'm better than anybody else because of it, but it's what I can do and afford. I literally grew up working in my dad's automatic transmission shop from '75 until '95 and I've worked at a high performance parts distributor since, so I feel I do have knowledge that I'm willing to share with others. I'm 54 now and smart enough to know that you've just got an oversized ego problem.
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The heim on the end of the strut....I'm not sure where we left off on that controversy. |
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This is turning into quite the pi???? match ,,,Ego trip ,,, or maybe just a soap opera ,,I,ve had enough,,,,:cool::cool::cool::cool:
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I am pretty bored now that my racing is done for the year. Since this has become a Virtual Class Runoff of the mouth (or keyboard), can you guys at least do a virtual heads up run?
I say post honest specs on your car from the 2013 season and show us video and a verified picture. Let us, ( the peanut gallery you invited) classify your cars and calculate what classesyou wouldrun in a Class Combo type class runoff! Show us the confirmed best timeslip from this year also that matches your video. Oh, and by the way, bring your gaskets for the virtual teardown. I will have to warn you. No wally unless you can go at keast. 5 under! Come make this at least something about a REAL Performance race! LOL. |
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Well Said,,,,,,,,,,
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I recently purchased the global west bushing kit with billet upper shafts. stock style.
I was looking at the afco site but find no mention of tall ball joints for GM A and F bodies 64-72, 67-69 respectively. Are they available? It appears A and F body share the same upper ball joints, thanks Chris found these on jegs Proforged 101-10016 - Proforged Tall Ball Joints also http://pitstopusa.com/i-6333109-alls...oog-k6136.html |
Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
Here's a page with a good picture . http://www.colemanracing.com/Ball-Jo...ght-P4805.aspx ---Trevor
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Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
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We ended up going with Afco solid steel bushings on the upper control arms, steel and delrin bushings on the lowers. Afco extended length ball joints and Global West offset billet steel cross shafts. A little bit a sanding powdercoat and making a piece of angle steel to fit inside the control arm when Dad pressed in the bushings. But overall, it wasn't that bad. We are happy with the parts and look forward to seeing how it all performs when we make our shakedown passes in the next 4-6 weeks. Thanks for everyone that helped out with advice and provided notes from their own experiences on this one. I have a thread going over in the Class Racer Builds section of the entire car, if anyone is interested.
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