Re: Woodfin's SS GT/TB construction series
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One the 6th day of Christmas the painter gave to me, shiny rear suspension parts :)
Yea, I knew it was coming! The rear section shiny black is under way. My painter friend is working his magic. |
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I like shiny
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Some things about the Super 10 frame make it visually different from a door car.
Of course, the frame being completely removable is a huge visual difference. In addition, the frame is wider, beefier than what you generally see with a door car. Plus in the rear section the rear cab mounts and bed mounts stand well above the frame. There are always several ways to approach a project and most of the time with proper planning all methods arrive at an acceptable completed project. For me, with the tools and resources I have, simple is best. Thus, the shiny frame you see here is basically the factory frame with new side rails in the tire area and four link brackets installed properly. When the bed and bumper go back on it will bolt right down to the original factory brackets. The central frame section does not require and modification, I will even use the factory transmission crossmember. The front section, front crossmember, is next to be modified for oil pan clearance. Next week, rear housing goes back in place, and cab sets back on to begin roll cage install. |
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On the 7th day of Christmas a shifting we will go, building a Powerglide for the Super 10 .
The new SFI Reid case is completely bare. It has not one bolt, not one pin, not one clip, not one piece of hardware. So, we need a donor case or other sources for the small parts. I still have several factory cases and for this build I am using the park hardware from a donor case. However, once the park hardware is "borrowed" from a case you have, well, a useless case. I have found some sources for the park pawl, pin, spring, bracket but the pricing is too high. If some of you have a broken case with park hardware and other small hardware I will buy or accept donations. You can contact with a PM if you have any of those parts. Today in the back yard multi-purpose shop I will begin the trans build by making ready some of the sub assemblies. My trash pile shows the BTE boxes required to ship parts to build two race powerglides from scratch. More photos to follow |
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A fair question is, "why buy several boxes of parts then take time to assemble trans from a bare case?"
Answer, simply my style and desire. Often you will hear the comment, "don't build a race car, buy a ready to race package, save money" For some racers that is reasonable advice. For me, much of my pleasure is in the building. In addition, my brain is wired for problem solving and creativity. So if you are among the build it yourself class, good for you! It is mighty fine therapy and O the lessons learned :) |
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Day 7 bonus notes;
If you are building or plan to build your Powerglide I highly recommend H P Books "Powerglide Handbook" written by the late Carl H. Munroe. This is an excellent, excellent reference containing many photos and many race upgrades that are both helpful and easily performed. His family continues the transmission business and they have all the special tools and hardware the book brings out. Check them at TSR Racing Products. The reverse piston photo shows a screw driver pointing at a small dot. Get your copy of the book to learn about it's function. Also see the parking pawl and related pieces in place, nothing to it, one step at a time. The last photo show reverse clutch pack in place topped by the ring gear. So, how do you take several boxes of parts and transform they into a Super 10 transmission? You do it one step at a time :) |
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Great info Mr. W. Keep up the good work and before you know it Super 10 will be turning on the win lights. :)
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On the 8th day of Christmas I see a beautiful sight, a 12 bolt hanging in place.
One of the Guys here at the shop says I am like a Crow, attracted to shiny objects. |
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A drag race package that performs as expected does so because 100's of small things add up to make a difference.
Especially with smaller engines like the Super 10's 327 package anything that cuts drag must be considered. The design of a Powerglide is such that when in "high" gear, the reverse friction clutches spin at output shaft speed while the steel plates remain stationary. Thus, we have potential for rotating resistance. With a finish line RPM of 8500 + extra clearance in the reverse clutch pack will free up some drag. In addition, having less friction plates in the clutch pack gives another lower drag benefit. The photos show a .100" stack of feeler gauges that only have slight drag between clutch plates. The reverse pack contains only 4 friction plates, proper clearance is set by selecting an extra steel plate of the correct dimension. And the 1.98 gear set goes in next. |
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In a private message I was ask my performance expectation and goals for the Super 10.
The short answer, "personal satisfaction" and to expand, the lessons learned and satisfaction of on-track performance realized as planned. In a word, FUN! In another word, "Mental Therapy" [well, two words" So, notice I did not give an expected ET number. To address that, it will qualify to compete. Because of help from experienced racers and builders of the Super Stock packages I expect the performance to be completely competitive. In addition, I plan to drive the Super 10 at a competitive level. Keep in mind the FUN word. But do not for one moment think I am playing, far from it. I am building a package that has potential to win in Super Stock competition. Plus doing with a sly smile and gleam in the eye. :) |
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On the 9th day of Christmas the AFT must flow, so we modify the Powerglide pump.
[stand by for photos, we have temporary tech issue with the camera] |
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Our 9th day photos were delayed until the camera could be fitted with new battery's. These two photos show oil flow mods to the Powerglide front pump.
If you were to have several pump cores you would find that some pumps have the larger converter fill holes while some have the smaller holes. For our purposes we want the large holes to assure a converter fully charged with oil. Stand by for more pump mods soon. |
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Re: Woodfin's SS GT/TB construction series
SSDiv6
stand by for those photos, track bar built and installed Tuesday but no photo of that yet. It is a simple bolt on diagonal bar. Also, you will notice no jam nuts on any of the bars. The rod ends are old/used and just for mock up, final rod ends as race time nears. Most nuts and bolts are not the final pieces. It will all come back apart at least one more time. |
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Mr W. I was a the shop tonight and I think I will take the Sunfire apart one more time also. I think that makes a bakers dozen. :)
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On the 10th day of Christmas we take another turn, the cab goes back on the frame for more fitting.
We have already mentioned some of the differences about building the Super 10 as compared to a door car. Another big difference, if you want to prepare the cab floor to receive the roll bar, just take the cab off and set it any which way you want to make the cuts. I just kinda rolled it around in the driveway to give needed access. And one great thing, you are never cutting overhead so no metal filings raining down :) The square holes in cab floor are directly above the frame cab mounts. The cab has already been off twice as I measured and pondered the roll bar frame mounts. I have a good plan and we will see the fitment of the roll cage in the next few weeks. The yellow strap we use with an engine hoist to lift cab in place. With an extensive build like this project it is a challenge to keep some part of the job on-going at all times. If I have a day that some progress is not make in some area I feel I have wasted time. Even taking time to foresee upcoming parts and supplies needs is important. If you have an assortment of parts at the ready it allows being able to work on some system when you are held up with another. Just this week we have seen progress with paint, transmission, cab, and rear housing. One day everything will be finalized and race ready but we much work before that day. |
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Chief, 13 is a good number :)
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In keeping with the idea of have several systems underway at once, these two photos are of the converter priming valve in the trans front pump.
The roll pin is 1/8 single wall which is fine for factory usage but holds potential to shear under higher pressures of racing. The upgrade is a heavy duty, multi-wound roll pin. A common hardware store item. Tomorrow "some" system will some progress :) |
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On the 11th day of Christmas we must be reinforced, so we install Strange Aluminum caps.
I like the GM 12 bolt rear axle. For the Super 10 project it is a good choice. These Strange Engineering caps provide added strength over the factory caps. Strange produces the cap "legs" slightly long so it can be custom fitted to the housing. The cap is bolted in place, bore measurement taken, then the cap "leg" is milled to produce the correct bearing bore. Stand by for more photos with the caps in the mill. |
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Many sports have the special connection that brings family and friends together. That connection were the group support and group talent causes something to happen that you do not get otherwise. There is power and support from the family/friend unit.
Drag racing is like that. With the Super 10 project family and friends are a significant support group. In an effort to cultivate the younger members of the Super 10 team we are incorporating a Hot Wheels track under the bed cover. During race rounds our up and coming members can conduct Hot Wheels races in the pit area. Thanks to Little Chief for designing the Hot Wheels track. |
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I like what happened today. The cab is back in place and most likely will stay. Unless something I have overlooked comes up the cage work begins right away. Of course, once the main hoop and A pillar bars go through the floor the cab can no longer be removed.
The bed on the other hand will be removed again to allow painting the cab. Little Chief and I had a brief planning session this evening after he finished the Hot Wheels track. Check the photos. You will see how the main hoop goes through the floor and will weld onto the original cab mount brackets. Same for the A pillar down bars. Because the factory cab rubber mounts are removed to allow welding the down bars new cab mounts are now inside the frame. When completed, the cab will be solidly welded to the frame. |
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One of the last pair of bars installed will be the rear strut bars from main hoop rearward to rear shock crossmember.
Once those bars go in, the bed can no longer be removed. The ability to dis-assemble the frame from body has been a very nice advantage during construction. However, the day is coming when we are welding everything up and that option is over. |
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On the 12th day of Christmas the Brown truck brought to me, more Powerglide parts.
Some years I bought a large stock of Powerglide cores. About 10 complete trans and additional pumps and drums. Over time the good pieces have been gradually depleted. Building trans for myself, my Son and a few select local racers has drained the stock pile. Especially good used pieces of the small hardware and becoming more and more rare. Two good sources are still providing most everything to restock those parts. [there may be more suppliers but these two are the ones I have personal experience with] BTE and Sonnax. The order that arrived today gives enough restocking to build four more trans with the exception of whatever gear set the build requires. |
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Attention in the pits!
Because of family and other obligations the daily Christmas postings will be suspended until Tuesday Dec 16th. On that day postings and photos will resume with the roll cage install details. The bed has been on and off again for more fitment checking. The plan is good, everything is working out as expected. The cab remains on so stand by next week as we begin installing tubing and building mounts. |
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and we are back on schedule;
on the 13th day of Christmas the MIG welder gave to me, the tacking of roll cage tubing. We are now committed with the cab install. As these bars going in place the cab can no longer be removed. There is one helpful thing in the plan though, the cab is "floating" on the frame so it can be moved and raised to allow completely welding the tubes. Once all roll cage tubing is finished welded the cab will then be welded to the frame. Today's photos show main hoop and halo tacked in place. Tomorrow the "A pillow" bars go in place. |
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Larry, some food for thought. I built a Dakota back in 97. The wheel tubs where flanged about 1" and were pop riveted from inside the bed. My thought was if I or someone ever wanted to change colors the rivets could be drilled out and and the bed could slide the length of the tub opening. My main hoop supports to the rear centered half in the tub and half in the bed. You may be working on this right now, but thought I would speak up. I had an aluminum cover on the bed painted truck color of course with about an 18" hinged access lid for fuel and battery service. I was trying to find a picture. I have one somewhere.
Keep up the good work! Ernie Neal SS 354 |
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Ernie,
I would like to see photos. Always open to suggestions. Larry |
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On the 17th day of Christmas a grinder made the fit, roll cage bars in place.
Today we have grinding sparks flying. The cab is in position and new inner cab mounts are under construction. The main hoop is in place, halo bar fitted, "A" pillow bars working just now. Photos soon |
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Some engine parts updates;
Gary Hettler tells me heads and intake ready mid January. Eric at REBCO has the Bill Miller pistons and pins now in house and working his program. Mile High Crankshaft has crank ground and waiting on bob weight numbers to balance. East Texas Racer Cars custom headers in - house. YEA! Lot's of sub systems in process. January, February, and March will bring good progress as these items are finalized and arrive on-hand. |
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About brake pedal ratio, the change is a piece of cake for the Super 10. The large raised boss connected to the factory power brake booster.
The new rod end and Strange push rod kit give a 6:1 ratio for proper manual brake pressure. A simple matter of drilling a 3/8 hole 2" down from pedal pivot. |
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to close out today's post we have two shots of rear assembly with bed in place.
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On the 18th day of Christmas good progress did result with roll cage bars in installed.
The middle half crew hit some good licks today. Roll bar, halo bar, A pillar bars installed and finished welded. |
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Maybe I am not seeing your photos well enough but any car with a factory frame requires that the cage be welded to the frame. If I am seeing your photos correctly, it looks like you have plates welded to the floor, that is only legal on a unibody type chassis. Am I missing something?
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these 3 photos show the lower bed trim removed making ready for paint work. And the 32 x 14 M/T tucked in nicely
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Jim, the main hoop legs are through the floor into the frame.
With the front A bars, because of the cab mount and frame location it worked out best to plate the floor and add an outrigger under the floor to frame. The frame turns inward before the A bar location. In addition, the cab floor is "robust" and double thickness in that location. |
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Is the cage mild steel or moly?
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I had a customer that had a similar request, it was a frame car but he wanted to have the body removable. I sandwiched a plate top and bottom of the floorpan (bolted through) with the top plate for the cage and the bottom portion attached to the frame by 1 5/8 tubing. NHRA Tech was OK with this, the car tagged so I assume this method is acceptable.
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Dwight, mild steel
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