Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
My Total Seal ring package was up in price as I went with thin rings and spacers $349.00 New total $6547.98
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Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Just scored a brand new in the box CSI electric water pump for $100. It fits a BBF but I can make it work, especially for $100.
New total $6647.98 |
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Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Sorry. I was testing my new flickr account. I'm trying to figure out how to make picture show up and not just the shortcut. The yoke is a Strange as I didn't have one when I bought housing. Hoping to install rear end for the last time and now order cam and get lifters built for short travel.
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That was the old rules...................... Now you can run a solid flat tappet lifter or a solid roller lifter as a replacement for the hydraulic lifter..... If it was hydraulic flat tappet is can be switched to a solid flat tappet and if it is a hydraulic roller lifter it can now be switched to a solid roller lifter... Just trying to help with your budget..... Bob |
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You make the hyd roller lifter and solid roller lifter, moly tube stock and a lathe. |
Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Jeff, I just figured out how much I needed for shims on the Monte lifters, then went over to Mark's Bolts and Nuts with my calipers, and got a big batch.. by the pound !.
Left about .010 -.015 of travel and zero lashed it. Goes along with your budget. |
Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Mark,
Like I shared with Jeff, be careful with the washers. Commercial washers, even the high strength ones, are usually Chinesium and will deform. Talking from actual experience with some lifters I shimmed with high grade hardened washers and they squeezed to a thinner dimension. Ended buying some 7075-T6 Aluminum round stock and cut it to the proper length. |
Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
I use stainless steel machine shims to shim lifters. They are available in many O.D./I.D. sizes and thickness. -Al
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Hi, Since I am not an Old's guy, just an old guy, I'm not sure that I understand??? I think that you run an .842 diameter roller lifter, but I am not sure???? What dimension is the .920 diameter that you are referencing ???? Just gathering info.. Thanx, Bob |
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test
http://i.imgur.com/OHAfgjN.jpg Im finally smart enough to post a picture and not shortcut. Only 30 minutes to figure out. IRSMART |
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I didn't see a spec for lifter diameter in the NHRA Technical Bulletin for a 1988 Oldsmobile with a 307ci engine, but classracerinfo.com said .842 lifter????? On line it looks like only the early Oldsmobile's take the .921 lifters???? Have you measured the lifter bores in your 307 block???? I am just confused |
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1966-1967 400 and 425 Olds engines use a .921 Dia conventional hydraulic lifter. However, the 1985-1988 Olds 307 with peanut ports, rated at 138 HP, and the 1981-1985 Olds 350DX diesel engine use a .921 hydraulic roller lifter. |
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So, when in doubt, leave it to the engineer. |
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Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Here is rear end set up I hope for the last time. I think pattern is good as it took around 6 adjustments to get this pattern. Scored a set of used complete wild wood brakes. $215 shipped. The rotors were shot but I have a new set in the drawer that are drilled and were spares from old car I sold. Also the caliper mounts have a large hole for big Ford bearing that I will need to address. Total $6862.98
https://i.imgur.com/NhgtBZL.jpg |
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Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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Jeff are you looking at the lightweight radial or is that bad for such a heavy car?
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They are probably right Jeff, when i raced the1968 BelAir wagon it was hard pulling those tires but actually we started airing them up a little at a time and we would go faster and it still hooked okay it also depended on the track but it hooked almost everywhere.
Jerry |
Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
Thanks for the replys. The 6.14 and the 94 rollout tire is what I was able to purchase frugally ( if thats a word) so this is what I have to start with. With altitude here in AZ I figured this much gear wouldn't hurt. Maybe back east it would be to much or Pomona
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Finlly made my fist trip to scrap yard with metal items I removed from wagon. A whole $50 so I get to reduce new cost to $6812.98
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Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
https://i.imgur.com/01ZUdNL.jpg
Here is a problem I created. I bought these brakes used and the brackets are for big axle bearing which I do not have. So I made this spacer to help support axle flange and bearing, plus seal gear oil from leaking out. https://i.imgur.com/CV4mf8v.jpg |
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Jeff any updates? Love this build.
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https://i.imgur.com/82TBwY7m.jpg
I need to stop being lazy and get you guys pictures. I had to buy lower arm bushings that didnt come with kit for suspension and steering rebuild. Then I got the great idea to install G body spindles with caliper and 11 inch rotor. The existing brake system looked like it came from a Mack truck. I still need to weigh the difference. Each spindle was 2 lb less. Waiting for caliper and rotor to show up to weigh them. MaybeI can get car off lift and finish motor to install. Lower bushings and spindles 119.00 Total 6936.98 |
Re: My 88 Olds wagone U/SA 10 Pennies
No pictures yet. I have engine on run stand waiting carb parts and then I will video break in run. Alot of nickel and dime the last 40 days.After a discussion on spindles I installed the old spindles and purchased calipers rotors, brake pads, bearings, seal and brake hoses. Then valve covers, distributor, cam, starter, oil filter,pushrods, swap meet large quadrajet carb. $870 in all parts. Total $7806.98. Just need time and I can get alot done. I was shooting for around $7500 but now maybe under $9500
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Engine is alive. Ran it yesterday on run stand and took video. Came home and video is worthless and no sound. Ill try again Monday. Have a bad hesitation off idle but I think I have all my advance in. Oil pressure cold was 60 hot was 45 at idle. All rockers throwing oil all over the place even with restrictors. Electric water pump that I modified to fit Olds worked great and held 130 degrees for around 15 minutes of running. Now ill cut oil filter open and check for metal, figure out hesitation, check timing curve. Having a run stand is great to find any problems and get motor to run decent before putting in car. I haven't touched a thing under hood yet and have other side of brakes to install plus steering linkage with steering box. Driveshaft, trans converter, gauges and wiring and maybe drive out of shop.
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