Re: Boss Mustang stocker
I got these spot weld cups for the tig to create that "factory" look they actually work pretty darn good. I will still stitch weld all the overlapped panels with the tig though just to be safe.
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps28s47ycy.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvgvlu2gs.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3nn3e8qn.jpg |
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Not only is this going to be a beautiful show piece/race car but it will be a totally new car.. Wow great build and well documented..
Scott |
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Mr. Diehl, I also commend you for the thoroughness and intensity you have extended to this project. I have contemplated in the past the concept of "building" a car from sheet metal, especially since Dynacorn has such an inventory of reproduction panels, and you are approaching that level. Excellent documentation and a very educational platform for many of the questions people can have for building a Stock eliminator car.
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Agree with Dwight 110%.
Super nice build and I can only wish I had your skills at fab and welding knowledge. Good Luck and hope to see it up and running soon. R J Sledge |
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Thanks guys.....developing a new set of heads, putting together a brand new engine (with parts you can't buy) and building the car from the ground up all at the same time is a challenge no doubt.
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Torque box reconstruction
The next series of photos will be of interest to some and not so much to others. This part of the project has been on the sidelines for awhile while I pondered the thought of eliminating the torque boxes alltogether, as bar 6A and 6B of the 25.5C floor would take its place and bars 2A would intersect the front factory frame rails. But......since this is a "stock" eliminator project I came to the conclusion that 1) it would create to much controversy as not "stock" (even though I have approval in writing) and 2) I just was not satisfied with all the front end sheetmetal and the engine "hanging" from just the firewall becuase I have no motor plate or mid plate to work with |
Re: Boss Mustang stocker
Previous owner must have thought this was a 4x4 because the damage to the undercarrige was substantial...previous photos show I have a new engine crossmember and strut rod crossmember also.
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdnkvkzdb.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnnwfftkb.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvhmtajm2.jpg |
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The engine, driveline and shock towers in these years 71-73 are offset 3/4" from centerline so....
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfomhkmp6.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps94zy47p4.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps45icgtac.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgg1che1x.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvs68dguy.jpg |
Re: Boss Mustang stocker
Now I have to do the drivers side and then get it on the jig to put it all together.
you can see how the 25.5C "frame" will tie it all together http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psz5g08bvk.jpg |
Re: Boss Mustang stocker
Any updates for us FFFord nuts Bill ?
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As I posed earlier in the thread I was not happy with the "fit" of the new cowl to the old firewall, so......lets do it again
Also the "table" or "jig" whatever you want to call it will be donated to the next guy that is interested, just come by and pick it up when I am finished http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbkdbk7rt.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgv7h2ssq.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrtuvkgpb.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psamoo25z9.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrcbhnfgs.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa5y9hwad.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqrcpkvwa.jpg |
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Fitting the inner fender panels to the new firewall, this was a whole lot easier than I expected.....much better than the last time, they were not even close, these fit like a glove.
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfds7fj2e.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshov1foyz.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psz1t7nfps.jpg |
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Nice, thorough work.
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Thanks ...............Torque boxes, getting a good clean fit is harder than I expected
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbnrighzb.jpg |
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spot welds again....these were done with the spot welder even though earlier in the thread I said they would be done with the tig, with 9 million spot welds to go it will be a combo of spot welder and tig. I will stitch weld everything with the tig also once all the sheetmetal is in place
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvawzbnyl.jpg |
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I have a remote control on the way for the tig, I am 6-4 so laying on the ground, climbing in and out or trying to run the foot pedal is wearing me out....just set it and go....if I need more or less heat reach over and turn the knob, should be easier than stoping going to the welder starting ect...I'm getting to old for that
http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/pro...rol__36188.jpg |
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Back to where I was 6 months ago, but the fit and finish is much better...all that for a new clean pretty firewall...what a pain in the ....
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrb0eebtz.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3ivdczxz.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7psjdefu.jpg |
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Beautiful job Bill. I saw the first pic of it (and with my body skills would of left it as is lol) and then I saw the pic of it torn down to nothing and felt ill. At that point I was "aww what a shame, it was a good car" but you're actually building it back up again, unbelievable.
You certainly have my respect as I can't fathom going that far into a car, if I did I would still have my 71, 72 and 73 fastback mustangs. Great to see an old mustang being reborn! |
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to the rear...crossmember from NPD is made in USA, there is no doubt the quality is top notch, I am impressed, yes.... its just a bent piece of sheetmetal but...
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshi9exnsw.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxk44roq9.jpg |
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Start of the 25.5C floor/cage construction or subframe connectors/rear crossmember.
Bar 1 (cossmember) is 1-5/8 x .083 CM Bars 2A and 2B are 1-1/2 x .065 CM http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psedczxtaj.jpg |
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Transition pan w/ shock crossmember, and trunk pan
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbhcomwxj.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnuqwkzjt.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfrgzqzyg.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbhherxya.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psayggqk3q.jpg |
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Folks, in pic 141 you can see I do not have the 6" x 6" plates attached to the rocker sill yet, that is because I did not have the rear sheetmetal installed or "mocked up"
The blueprint dimensions that I have are not exactly the same as what the measurement's are when all the metal is assembled... that's why you see the next series of photos showing the trunk area..... In pic 141 the threaded 5/8 rod from pillar to pillar at the front is set where it needs to be so the front end aligns as it should...a lot of you all know this but for those that don't...this is the "old school" way or how to do it in your "home" workshop. 1/4" here and 1/4" there is no big deal when fitting the panels but it is when you are fitting the tubing basically I am putting the whole car together and then taking it all apart again until I am happy with the fit and finish |
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Looking good.
Mike Taylor 3601 |
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Bill,
Check your private messages. Joe |
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Here is a job that takes longer than expected (99% of the work throughout this build is done by myself in my home garage, I farm out very little, only some machine work) this needs to be done first, so the cleaning process can remove all the cutting fluid before block fill
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1486939755 I marked the tap at the depth of the cylinder wall http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psus1hqs8q.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psurfxcogg.jpg checked it with a gauge plug http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psyy6gixcr.jpg and of course, its not deep enough, so I will tap all the holes and then cut the bottom of the tap off to finish the job http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvjkfzepm.jpg |
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Here is something you don't see everyday.... a legal valve job that holds the required 244cc's and moves 349 cfm at 28 at less than .550 lift, the exhaust is 232cfm. The engine makes big time power, not bad for 45 year old cast iron.
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psh56cpyyx.jpg |
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Frame Rails!!! seems like I have been waiting YEARS for these, if this was a GM or late model I probably would have been thru 3 engines already....but since its a 71 mustang.....I will admit the aftermarket is stepping up though
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psohqtobed.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pseag7vt6s.jpg |
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Post #146.....it takes over 750 ft pounds to turn that tap, I am 6-4, 240 and its a workout.....thanks to Ebay..LOL I have this on the way to get the last few threads, the chips will beak easier and cleaner as it has one thread removed....anybody that has tapped large dia pipe threads understands what I am talking about...as I said way back on page 4...this is an educational thread:D
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PrYAAO...Vc/s-l1600.jpg |
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Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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A motor plate would solve this but as the rule is written they are not allowed at this time Rick, I will get a better pic to show you what I mean |
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This photo shows the location of the core plugs vs motor mount bosses. There are 3 on each bank and the motor mounts intersect the first 2. Most other manufactures don't have this problem. The main reason is ring seal but what the NHRA should be concerned about is the soft plug coming loose on the 1-2 shift or 3-4 ect. I would not like it nor would the car in the other lane. screw in plugs solves that concern.
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdtopnkwi.jpg |
Re: Boss Mustang stocker
Quote:
Rick Thomason GTO Mayhem |
Re: Boss Mustang stocker
With all that being said, I am still kicking around block fill or no block fill. The sonic test is very good on this particular casting and I like the idea of water around the liners for cooling. If the class allowed a motor plate it would get a 1/2 to 3/4 fill but since it doesn't....I am still weighing up the pros and cons.
This engine is/or will be an improvement from the old one...but I am still waiting for the track boss blocks to be available for the next upgrade, some of the mods I have done and explained in the thread will not be required with the track boss block as they are incorporated in the new castings |
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Cleaning up the front of the engine...since I will be using an electric water pump some mods to the front so I don't need a backing plate in this series.
cut the top bolt hole off that sticks up into no mans land, tap the water recirculation hole, makes for a nice clean d shaped installation http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psluzq2jwa.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqsgspglq.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstfuf8prx.jpg |
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Converting to a low mount mini alternator, the stock location mounts off the head, uses too long of a belt, sticks out too far and just looks like...you know the word. So I will use a billet aluminum mandrel with a provision to run a vaccum pump at non NHRA races, and I will run a serpentine short belt with the correct ratio..no belts thrown off, no dead battery..ect..mocking it up to fab the brackets in this series
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psmelxzk6x.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstszoh4vn.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psturqovlc.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psotnwfohg.jpg |
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That is an adjustable voltage alternator as I use a 16 volt system on everything I build
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A ford cleveland this is required...lifter bushings. it is the ONLY way to correct the oiling issue that this platform has. I have them made at 1.187 OD so I can correct the horrible geometry that the blocks are as cast...its amazing the engine even runs let alone makes any kind of serious power or rpm without it. my cams are ground accordingly and still use the fords .875 dia. lifter
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgusv7gt5.jpg and the lifter bushing work corresponds with the correct rocker stud location, inserts are installed to get the geometry "spot on"... 7/16 bottom thread relocated to the "right" position, 1/2 top thread comp cams stud made by arp 1/2" trunions installed in the 1.73 rockers at the "correct" pivot length for optimum geometry in this application. (the pictures show what was done but the "math" involved will stay in my brain for now, I may share that info at a later date) The Geometry that I refer to is on both sides of the stud, not only were the rocker tip contacts the valve, as that is only part of the "package" http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pssau1xjog.jpg |
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What a difference, every other thread removed and cuts through cast iron like butter by hand
http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psuwaqbp4d.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pslqlmclcr.jpg Finished with 4140 alloy plugs http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstj2713nc.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5agcfxu9.jpg |
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