Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I'll have to buy a IAT sensor as I can't seem to locate the original. If the factory O2 sensors can in fact be deleted I'm all for that. If a one wire alternator will cure the no charge problem I'll gladly order one to get away from that aggravation quickly.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Don't delete the O2's. You'd be in open loop (no feedback to the computer). You don't need that right now. You probably don't need that ever, but it's option later on when you become more familiar with tuning efi.

It's running smoother now because you have closed loop when you installed both O2's.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I didn't realized you had left the IAT off also, lol. Remember, unlike a carb, an efi system is only as good as the info it receives. Make certain all of the sensors are not only hooked up, but in good operating order. If you need to replace any sensors, buy Motorcraft.
As far as eliminating the o2's, yes it can be done, but at this stage of your learning curve it will be much easier to tune with them in, and they will not hurt you in any way as far as making power with them being there.
They will make the whole tuning process much more forgiving.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Bought a new IAT sensor and put it in. Also bought a new MAP sensor, but I don't see any evidence anything has changed. Car still starts and idles tho, Scheduled Wednesday morning to get the front-end lined up. I have some new screenshots of the controller while running that I will post when I get home this evening.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich,

Also make sure your injector ground is connected to the engine and your engine has a good ground strap to the firewall. EFI needs good grounds! The main computer ground should be clean and tight as well and should be on the driver side front inner fender below starter relay.

The ground for the injector harness usually goes on a upper bell housing bolt.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yes, I have all those grounds tight plus some Brian. Question for you efi users...what do you all use to determine if specific sensors are working properly at any given time? I have this controller screen to view some of them, but was wondering how others know what exactly individual sensors are reading in real time.

Some screenshots from initial firing this afternoon -

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pscyrhrrap.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps583wp6gl.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psruckeuct.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psngvgnohs.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psmxqlryfd.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psm6byonqb.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psmhxuu7cd.jpg

Putting the car on blocks in the morning to set pinion angle and lock everything down.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I'll see if I can check my car so you can use it as a reference.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich,
These older Ford EFI systems didn't give live data so as Ford Tech we installed a "break out box) interface between the EEC processor and harness that had exposed pins where we could measure the pin voltages with a digital volt meter. You can do similar sensor checks with a thin paperclip and your voltmeter by slipping the clip along side the sensor wire in the sensors backshell until it hits the connector (back probing) and directly measure voltage coming from the sensor wire to ground and comparing to spec. Most 3 wire sensors have a wire that is 5V reference (orange) Sensor Ground (Black) and sensor output (green or some other color). I just probe and can identify signal wire (usually the one in the middle) that has the voltage between o and 5. Two wire sensors (IAT and ECT) jut tap into either ide and read voltage. Take readings with sensors hooked up.

Typical Values at idle and warm

TP around 1 volt
Baro 159 HZ +/-6 (Frequency, set meter on HZ)
ECT 1,3-..6 Warm
IAT 1.3 -.6 Warm
MAF 1V-? More with more air going through.

Make sure MAF wire is clean and doesn't have contaminants on it...maf is a major player with A/F.

Good luck!

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich,

Looking at your photos, you don't have a vacuuum line hooked to baro do you? It looks like the same as a MAP sensor but baro's just read atmospheric pressure so the connection is open, no vacuum goes to that sensor.

Look like TP and IAT/ECT are working just curious of that Baro reading at -29.HG

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

If that's barometric pressure as in weather, 29 hg is about right for Rich's area. Atlanta is 30 right now. The - could be a dash or a wiring glitch generating a negative value. EFI is a black box to me, so this is just a guess.

Dale