Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Your drive shaft should work I did the same on mine. If your are worried about it being to short steeda makes a spacer that is like 5/8 thick I think that goes between the shaft and the rear end.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Fuel rails just barely clear the upper intake...should be ok.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrv3zrwbo.jpg

Alternator and new pulley line up fine. Will need a 27.5" belt...hope they make such an animal.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgai39o0o.jpg

The extended water pump fitting takes care of the balancer interference.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshbznpsft.jpg

Just a few oddball bolts and this puppy is ready to drop-in.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psrwt4cm1r.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psiw6msa9h.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psuyux276x.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstm3a3167.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psymqiqjuv.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Here you go.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOODYEAR...-/311090320066


Engine looks great.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I am so ready to get this out of the garage and back in the car where it belongs. :p

How about 9 of them for even less Tony? :D http://www.ebay.com/itm/141607149096...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

That works, lol !

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Maybe I missed it, but what brand and primary diameter are those headers? I have FlowTechs on my 85 Mustang, but yours seem to fit tighter to the engine than mine.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rory - Those are 1-5/8" Mac headers I bought used.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I hope you have more elbow room under the hood than my '68. The fit on my Hooker Super Comp headers leaves little room for error and can't be on the engine during install.

Everything looks great.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

With zero experience on this car Dale I'm guessing I will need to lower the engine into the bay and fasten the headers just before setting it on the mounts.

I will admit to a rookie mistake. Went to drop the distributor in last night and found one must install the oil pump drive shaft when the pump is bolted to the block lol. Yes, I had to pull the pan to do it over. :o

I will need to be spot on with timing initially. Driver's side fuel rail is all in the way of the distributor body and precludes much rotation. Any more issues with these things and I will consider going back to the factory rails.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pses12tlsy.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Actually, at this hp level, factory rails are more than adequate, just not as pretty, lol. For aftermarket rails, Behind Bars Racecars makes the best I've seen for clearing the factory distributor. Doesn't help you now, just mentioning in case someone else is reading this.
http://www.behindbarsracecars.com/Mu...-p/bbrc500.htm

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yeah, I knew this going in but got a deal on those rails...not such a great deal so far haha. Not sure if a MSD is of a smaller diameter body or not.

Btw. I did not mention it earlier, but I tapped the intake for a 1/4" pipe plug behind that port in the thermostat housing (for a heater hose connection?). Figured that was better than messing with a cap of sorts.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4wuqbjok.jpg

Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, correct?

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Plug is fine, and yes on the firing order. Stay with the factory distributor. More reliable than the MSD.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Inline filter spliced in underneath and fuel cell mounted with some scrap metal I had lying around. I'll weigh the car once the engine, transmission and drive shaft are installed to see whats needed for ballast.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqckizxga.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I need a little info from folks here running a similar combo so I can get a convertor spec'd and on the way.

I remember Brian Thompson saying his ATI convertor flashed around 4800rpm. What will be the maximum usable rpm this car will see and what would be the average shift points? Plans are still for a 4.56 gear with the 26" tires.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Re: header install.
Rich, I`m not sure how your brand of headers and the use of an automatic transmission will compare, but on my 85 Mustang, I install the engine with the passenger side header fully bolted up, and with the flywheel/clutch assembly, scattershield, and starter all bolted up. Once I have the engine sitting in place, I install the drivers side header from below, and then install the Jerico 4 speed. I have never tried installing the engine with the trans bolted up, may try that next time. But having the passenger header and starter in place before the installation sure beat fighting with trying to get the header and starter motor in afterwards.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Bolt the engine and trans together, lower them in to the car and snake the headers in before sitting the engine all the way into the cradle, Every header made seems to fit a little different, especially with an automatic.
My Kooks are my favorite's. The tubes bolt on individually, slip the collector on and tighten everything up.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

These are some 1-5/8" Mac's I bought used. Not a real race header, but they will have to do for the time being. May play with some extensions once running.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psy6mn05ia.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Dropped the motor in today only to find these headers are not going to work at all. Passenger side just barely clears and the driver side is all over the steering shaft. I don't think the steering swap from power to manual has anything to do with it...steering shaft is basicly in the same position as the factory piece. Someone please tell me it is not necessary to run the steering shaft between the header tubes...:(

Anyway, I need a part number for a proven fitting set of headers for this car before I can proceed. The only highlight of the day was I spun the oil pump and it had plenty of pressure with no leaks.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshcs633bm.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps8mnylunk.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psm96eytvl.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I have Hooker Super Comps on mine. The steering shaft goes through the tubes on them as well.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

The steering swap didn't affect it. Will they fit with the shaft between the tubes? With my Kooks, they actually do have the shaft running between them, but they come apart to make it easy. I have never ran the Mac longtubes, but never heard of them having serious fitment issues.
Make sure that whatever you get specifies that they work with an automatic. Not all Fox headers will.


EDIT. What motor mounts are those? Do you still have the factory mounts laying around? If so, double check the heights, and the forward/backward postition between the 2. Some aftermarket mounts move the engine, and can cause all kinds of header fitment issues.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Guess I will be removing the steering shaft...really looking forward to that. What part number Kooks are you using Tony?

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

The 2 sets of Hedman headers I have had on my car, the steering shaft has to be removed. I also run the exact same engine mounts.

The steering shaft should not be that big of a deal to remove and reinstall. Your getting really close to having it running!

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich, I kinda skimmed back through and didn't see much detail on the engine, unless I missed it.
What did you do for pistons? Ring combo? Cylinder heads? Camshaft?

Thanks

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Brian is trying to send me a link to the Flowtech headers he uses...individual tubes like the Kooks.

Mark - I used a CompCam Stocker grind 246/252 @108. Cheap approved SpeedPro pistons with an oddball TotalSeal ring package. Heads were refreshed with new valves, beehive springs and pedestal mount roller rockers. Did the best I could with oil control.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I second looking at those motor mounts what brand are they? not to many people make solid mounts for the foxbodys and some have the engine in a different location then stock. I believe the rule book says engine placement in the stock location. my headers are kinda touch if the motor is not level in the car, big slots in the subframe for the motor mounts. I use pacesetter on my car under $300 for them, my merge collectors are more money then the headers.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Problem solved... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bi.../model/mustang Slip-fit tubes will make my life easier...all I need do is cut the flanges. I don't recall the brand of solid mounts, but yes the engine is still in the factory location front/back - up/down.

I'm not inclined to mess with that shaft again...it was a pain when I put the manual rack in.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Those 1 piece solid motor mounts look the same as the ones on my Mustang. I don`t recall the brand, but I bought mine from Alex Denysenko at Moneymaker Racing. I also have the long tube FlowTech headers, the last tube on the drivers side has a slip joint, and runs over the top of the steering shaft. (the other 3 tubes fit between the steering shaft and the engine). They fit well, at least with a stickshift.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yeah, Brian filled me in on them. The right side has two slip joints and the left has three. He has a manual rack and a large bellhousing so I should have no problem. :)

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Sorry Rich, don't have a part number. They were originally built for an NMRA F/S car, which required a stock k member. 1 5/8 tubes, and merged collectors. Stainless steel, ceramic coated. Think I paid around $1200 or so for them a few years ago. Looks like you have it figured out.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

for cheap fuel rails that fit and have more flow you can use 94-95 5.0 mustang rails.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich,


could you post a pic after you get those Flowtech headers installed?

thanks

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Bob - I'll keep those rails in mind if I run into other problems.

Chris - I will document the header install for sure...going to try both sides without lifting the engine at all.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Flowtech's in hand. This will be a huge improvement on the driver side. Not sure if I really need to cut the flanges on the passenger side, but I do see that it could be installed without raising the engine if I elected to do so.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psp087pqy7.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd63zr7qb.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Flanges cut, surfaces trued and de-burred...ready for a shot of header paint. If these work well I'll buy another set and have them coated inside and out.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1nhjurbw.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5dbrdmui.jpg

I will be putting these 2-1/2" stainless extensions on for effect.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2pwq3yvr.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Chris - Here are those pictures you wanted. Driver side went on fairly easily, but I did need to slightly raise that side. A heads up from Brian about having to notch the driver side motor mount for tube clearance proved accurate.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psh1lpwjuf.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pspecae6x9.jpg

I made a minor miscalculation the other night when I cut the passenger side flanges. That header has three slip tubes when in actuality it needs none at all...the complete intact header for that side can be maneuvered easily into place with the engine sitting on the mount. Installation was actually made more difficult by cutting the flanges into.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psancd0fn7.jpg

Random images from underneath...

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps07ccpp0h.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psljxh2lto.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfjmvhbvd.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psideds6qc.jpg

C4 arrived today. Thanks to Tony Corley for the bellhousing. Regarding the two fluid lines/ports on the passenger side...use hardline or something else?

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskmb7q3bw.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...psoh71mu5b.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Hey Rich I have mine hardlined together never had a problem yet have about 500 passes on this tranny. Change fluid about 4 times a year. I see you put the headers in with out the tranny being in, may not go as easy with it in just a heads up.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Looks like it will ease right in James with the car on the lift and using a trans jack. The starter might be worrisome tho.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich, did you lay the headers in the engine compartment first, then lower the engine, or set the engine down and then install the headers? I have the same FlowTech headers on my Mustang, and I never cut the flanges for the slip fit tubes on the passenger side, as I install my engine with the passenger header bolted up, along with the scattershield and starter motor. With the smaller bellhousing you may be able to get the C4 installed with the headers bolted up, the larger bellhousing takes up a fair bit more space. Not sure how hard or easy the trans dipstick will be to install with the header on. You may need to re&re the flexplate and block plate to fit the starter in place with the headers on, unless you have a small starter. Hopefully you will be able to access the starter bolts with the headers on. Lastly, what make is the steering shaft?

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Installed with engine already down on the mounts. Yes, you are correct...no need to cut the passenger flanges nor any reason I can see for slip tubes at all on that header.

I'm going to try the factory starter first and see how it goes. The steering shaft came with the manual rack...I'll have to go back and dig up what it is and where it came from.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich,

You'll appreciate having those slip tubes on the passenger side and cutting those flanges if some time later you have to pull just the starter or trans and you want to leave the motor in the car.