"G" Body suspention tips ?
Hey there, I have a 1984 cutlass that I am slowly turning into a stock eliminator but right now its just a 13 second bracket car with a 355.
I just recently swapped out my 7.5" ten bolt 3.73 posi, for a 12 bolt 4.88 posi and i am running 30x9 goodyear radials with the steeper gear. to make these tires fit I had to run cargo coils in the rear does anyone know if these work well for weight transfer in these cars ? I'm also using the stock upper control arms (The pinion angle is way off and i am getting major shutter off the starting line) I ran my car at the National open last weekend for the first time with the 12 bolt and like i said i was getting big time shutter off the launch, and also my 60's were all over the place from a 1.956 to a 1.880 and it felt like it was hooking up every pass Will a set of adjustable upper control arms fix the in consistancy off the line ? and is there any other tips to get "G" bodies leaving the starting line better ? Thanks, Craig - C693 |
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Maliburacing.com
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Thanks "skooter" .. alot of interesting info on the forums.
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realoldspower.com
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You need to start fresh with coil springs both front and rear ( Moroso will work ). Shocks need to be race specific and in this case a call to Calvert should give you what you need . Any of the major control arm companies will also get you in the ballpark along with a one degree pinion angle ( to start ). Also, as Alf Wiebe will tell you , use a rear sway bar !
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sounds like binding of upper control arms. stock uppers and old 12 bolts cause binding due to angularity differences. need the uppers changed to rid yourself of this problem to start.
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I guess the question is, is the 12 bolt modified to fit the G-body? Are the upper ears located in the proper angle to the upper control arms? If it was an "A" body 12 bolt, the upper control arm attachments are not in the proper location. You probably can force the control arms to fit but it will seriously bind. Post a little more info on the 12 bolt install.
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They make the control arms to put the "A" body rear in the "G" body, with the correct angles.
Can't remember who, maybe the "Iceman", I think there's a product line under that name, think he even sold/sells on Ebay. |
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There was also a 12 Bolt made for the G-body. Oldsmobile had it done and was given out to the factory cars. Just like the non computer q-jet & Dist. There were parts from Canada.
Ralph QUOTE=skooter;132274]They make the control arms to put the "A" body rear in the "G" body, with the correct angles. Can't remember who, maybe the "Iceman", I think there's a product line under that name, think he even sold/sells on Ebay.[/QUOTE] |
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Most of the major chassis shop's such as Strange, Moser, Mark Williams make a complete bolt in 12 bolt g body car.
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The location point on mine are moved up... also don't forget to air-bag the thing!
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Thanks for your help, Craig - C693 |
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When you raise the rear up on those cars for tire clearance, the projected instant center goes out of this world. Do a search for no hops bars. Several companies offer them. Get the proper upper control arms. I'll have to assume that you've got the wrong lower ones,too. Don't forget some good shocks and air lift bags. That'll stop the bouncing. |
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http://www.gnetworks.com/v4/go.gnf?s...¤tPage=1 And also wouldnt a good set of cargo coils do the same job as a set of drag bags ? Thanks, Craig |
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CJohnson, looking at picture of your car, you want the body to lift in rear away from the rear tire when you leave the starting line, no hop bars change the control arms angle to make rear lift and plant the tires, also no adjustable lower control arms in stock. Tom
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I finally took a look at those no hop bars, and i understand how they work now. |
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Look at the Morrison no hops three adj.position, nice piece
Hammer. |
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Well today i made my first purchase for my 12 bolt. i got the edelbrock adjustable upper arms, and tomorrow I will order a set of the lakewood no hop bars, and i think im going to use the cargo coils i have in there already and see how everything works out in a few weeks time. can anyone reccomend a good rear drag shock to use that wont break the bank ?
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4998023_n.jpg Thanks Craig - C693 |
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if everything works correctly should i expect a big improvment on my 60's over stock arms, with the 12 bolt and stock mounting location for the arms ? and stock shocks as well.
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1 Attachment(s)
My 79 Malibu street car.
Rear: 9 inch ford 4:30 gears, detroit locker, stock malibu upper and lower arms, stock F41 srpings, stock sway bar, Monroe Gasmatic shocks, M/T 9x28 slicks. Front: TRW replacement springs for V6 w No AC and 1 coil removed, Competition Eng Adj Shocks on 90/10, no sway bar, 215x75x15 tires Mild 350, TH350, 4000 stahl - best ET 11.70@116 best 60ft. 1.75, runs on pump gas, drive it to the track piece of cake... Jackie McCracken |
Re: "G" Body suspention tips ?
Ralph,
To my knowledge the best rear available from the factory for a G body car is the 8.5 10 bolt and were installed in T-Type Buicks and Cutlass 442's only in the mid 80's. They are good rearends and strong too. There was no 12 bolt for these cars except through the aftermarket. The Victor gasket catalog lists some Cutlass wagons having 8.5 10 bolts in them but I have never seen one and I look under every Cutlass wagon I come across. FYI - All G body Monte Carlo's (that I have seen) have extra bars that go from the center of the front cross member to the front corner of the frame rails and add a significant amount of stiffness to the front of the frame. Get some, they will bolt onto any G body, the holes are already there drilled and tapped. Also all Cutlass' that I have seen have extra bars that go from the front fender just above the tires that connect to the radiator support and also add some stiffness, get you some if you don't already have them. Jackie McCracken |
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Johnson,
I was looking at the pictures of your edelbrock bars and they do not correct the angle problem with the top ears. The government motors factory 12 bolt housing and the G body housing ears are a different angle as pointed out by others, you have to correct that. I do not know if the aftermartket housings correct this although i would think that they probably would. Moser (i think) and some others make top bars that "fix" the angle problem. Jackie McCracken |
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Would no hop bars help the angle at all ?
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No hop bars will not fix the angle problem unless they were designed for that and I don't know of any. The upper bars that have been modified that I have seen will have a shallow V shape to them to correct the difference between the old and new style angles. There is or used to to be a G body forum web site that somebody there could probably help you find the right bars that you need. There are a lot of guys running G body cars in Stock with 12 bolts so I am surprised that somebody hasn't piped up to offer help here as well. Dean Oliver runs a Malibu and does carburetors find his number and try calling him, see what he did to fix his, his car is a fast one too!
Jackie McCracken |
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Spherical housing bushings from either TRZ Motorsports or Wolfe Racecraft allow for the mis-alignment of the upper ear angles without binding suspension movement. That said, I've not looked at Stock rules to know if they are legal or not.
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Dave, I will have to take back the edelbrock ones i bought from mopac, what is the difference between them, how long did it take to ship the iceman control arms to your door Thanks |
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Craig, I had my set shipped to the parcel depot in Sumas, Washington and went to pick them up across the line. That way shipping cost and time are cheaper and faster. And you pay no brokerage fees. They came very quickly, less than a week to Sumas. It is pretty nice stuff and priced well compared to the same stuff from other companies. Dave
http://www.shiphappenssumas.com/ |
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Craig, if you look at the ones from the link, they have the angle built in to adapt the A-body housing to the G-body chassis. He also sells the regular ones that are straight, those are the ones I have as my housing is custom made to be the proper ear locations for the G-body. I use a set of four from him, the non-adjustable lower ones are legal. Look around the rest of his site, his comunication during the transaction was good too.Dave
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Real fast Buick Grand nationals use 10 bolts well into the 9s.The no hop bars are old school ,look at these set ups www.HRpartsNstuff.com
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I have been using the the 8.5 ten bolt in my Grand National. I put Moser 30 spline axles, Eaton posi and c-clip eliminators. Using the stock 3.42 ring and pinoin and it has held up to countless 25 lbs of boost trans brake leaves and it has gone 9.64 @ 140.11...
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Ya the 8.5's are stronger than some people give them credit for, my old man runs one in his racecar with stock 28 spline axels auburn posi and 3.91's
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Craig,
We have built several G body cars including a stock eliminator Malibu wagon, If you want or can give me a call and I will tell you about the stuff we have found. Most of the tips you have gotten are good but there is more. Bruce Compton Boise,Idaho 208-362-3570 |
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I have gone threw some changes on my Gbody (bracket not stock) at one point ran this:
Front: Stock SBC spring with 1 coil removed, loose front suspension with poly bushings,lower arms "level" with ground,5 inches travel, cheap 3 way shocks set driverside 70/30 pass.side 90/10 Rear: Eibach lowering springs,boxed lowers with poly, adjustible uppers with TRZ joints in the 12 bolt,single adjustible shocks, single air bag (7 to15#), -2 pinion angle. 30x9 radial slick Car would leave hard 1.44 to 1.46 but twisted bad and was a handfull down track. After many upgrades, double adjustible shocks all around, HR&stuff bar,no air bag. The car leaves straight and now can be driven down track with one hand. Since someone mentioned the bracing ,which these car NEED, here you go. I am new to the "stock" deal so I don't know how much of this is "legal" I made this up for another board. http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...979frame-2.png GM body braces, forgot to make a legend on this one: http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...yofAAAAAAA.jpg Now the tuff one to do, overlay: http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ofAAAAAAAA.jpg Hope you enjoy." |
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Looks like they've got you on the right track. You will most definitely want a rear anti-sway bar to counter the body roll that is increased when you raise the upper control arm rear mounting point (center of the car). The 8.5" 10-bolt that was made for these cars in the mid-eighties by Buick is a very strong piece with a spool and axles. Since you already have the 12 bolt I'll stop right there.
Good luck with your project. Don |
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