Engine Oil
 

What are the advantages, disadvantages, If any, of switching over to synthetic engine oil. I'm currently using "regular" 20/50. I hear that besides the price synthetic tends to leak more.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T

Re: Engine Oil
 

We change it so often, I can't justify the price of the synthetic. And the real advantage of synthetic (as I understand it) is in wear lifetime. We change after every 25 passes... Life's not much of an issue. :)

Re: Engine Oil
 

I ran 20/50 racing oil for years and then switched over to half synthetic and half regular racing oil. I would use the weight of oil for how cold it was going to be. Then I mostly ran thin synthetics to gain horsepower from the oil pump not working as hard. Never had bearing problems till early 2010. Motor ran fine, but was getting bearing chips in the pick up screen. Talked to super stock racers, and they are telling me that oil manufactures are talking zinc out of the oil, especially synthetics and it causing bearing wear issues. Some of the super stock racers use a zinc supplement to address the bearing wear issue. Need to talk to stock and super stock racers and get the information first hand. My new motor uses 20/50 and I look for the high zinc content. No problems yet, but it takes a while for it to show up. I normally put a motor together and it stays together for quite a while.:cool:

Re: Engine Oil
 

Today's passenger car motor oils are formulated to be compatible with your street car's emission control equipment, and Federal EPA requirements have led to a reduction in formulated anti-wear chemistries like Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in API rated engine oils. As a result, the oil you buy today is not the same as it was 10 years ago. While this is good for your street car, it is bad news for your racing engine.
I switched to Joe Gibbs Racing Oil, my engine builder told me to run a blend. He said they had problems with straight synthetic oils. If you want any info on the oil you can e-mail: markpow@powers-motorsports.com

Re: Engine Oil
 

Maybe odd...but a friend that runs super street is now running Rotella in his 406 per his engine builder's recommendation.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Amsoil is the best synthetic racing oil on the market today. It was the first and still the best. Its been around since 1972 never had any problems in my motor,trans,or rear using any of there products. If you need anymore imfo i am a dealer contact me.

Rick

Re: Engine Oil
 

Diesel oils like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400, both 15-40 weight, have a lot of good additives like ZDDP, if they are the "old" CI4+ spec, and do not also meet CJ. EPA has attacked diesels too, and the traps etc. that they now have do not like those additives. So, the CJ oil is decent but no where near as good as the older CI4+. APE "lets" the oil companies say their new oil is "backwards compatible" so the new stuff like the gold band "low emissions" Delo says CJ and CI4+. My local Chevron distributor still sells the "old" stuff in 5 gallon and larger containers.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Brad Penn aka KENDELL, good ****.

Re: Engine Oil
 

No advantage for me using normal synthetics in throttle stop cars, altho I do run a heater to warm the oil to 160 deg before I start the car.
Class cars using ultra light grades yes, some major gains when using oils that have the viscousity of water.


Like was said before, I change mine @20 runs ,so its hard to justify the expense of synthetics.
I switched to Lucas Racing oil this year ,since it has a very high zinc phosphate content,and the results are excellent ,with no wear problems or lifter issues.
PLUS , the contingency award for Div win and r/u is a big plus !

Re: Engine Oil
 

I was having bearing wear issues also and i started using the gm engine oil suppliment (eos) in my oil!!it has zinc along with other anti wear additives and it has solved the issue so far
scott fifield

Re: Engine Oil
 

CAM2 Blue Blood Racing Oil has over 2,000PPM Zinc, high phospherous, etc... everything you're looking for, and it's cheaper than some of the other synthetics. I run their 0w30 full synthetic... full time, too, and that includes double-entering at big money bracket races. In my opinion, it's more consistent in hot lap situations, where a 20w50 will start to thin out after so many heat cycles and make the car pick up. They also make some 15w30 and 20w50. cam2racing.com

Re: Engine Oil
 

We run the Lucas 20-50, change every 20-25 passes, and just pulled the engine apart. Bearings and everything else looks great.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Rock, Thanks for your comments.

OK, the consensus is to stay with oil that has a zinc compound in it. I switched over to Lucas oil this year as well. I agree that the cost of sythetic does not make it practical for my class. I stayed with the 20/50 grade and the oil pressure would vary from 40-50 psi pre race and 20 psi or so post race. Second question is would a thinner grade oil help. I have expierenced lifter failure twice recently, (80 runs between failures) both on the right bank. 2 & 4 cylinders. It made a mess of a lot of parts. Don't want to go through that again.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T

Re: Engine Oil
 

ive had good luck with valvoline vr1, internal looked great.

Re: Engine Oil
 

it ain't the oil, check your pushrod lenght and springs and also no oil restrictors

Re: Engine Oil
 

I also use the Valvoline VR1 race oil, it has ZDDP in it and states it on the back of the bottle.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Lucas Oil 20/50 Syn change every 25 runs and Steve Schmidt said looks like new after 150 runs

Re: Engine Oil
 

Have to agree with Hitter.
Geometry or running wimpy valve springs and bouncing the valve train will beat a lifter to a premature death.
I ran175 passes on mine this year with a cam with .880" lift and seat pressure of 380#and well over 1000# over the nose.@7600 rpm......did not break any springs or even have to touch the adjustment more than 2 or 3 times. ..[ stud rockers and girdle too]
Anybody who knows me will attest to the fact that I am not shy about the burn out. ...but I am careful.
Read the Reher / Morrison article in the last Nat Dragster , some good reading there.