Transmission catch can placement
What type are you using and where are you mounting it in a door car. I'm struggling with an inconspicuous clean looking place to mount it and also a place that won't potentially put fluid in front of the tires if happened to overflow.
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Never used/needed one.
If you're puking fluid, you're got a problem that needs to be fixed not catched. |
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If you are not puking or leaking fluid out of a racing transmission just means you haven't put any in yet.
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It's not currently puking and never has. The vent under the shield has been plugged and a new vent tapped in the rear portion of the case. That's a much lower place on the trans and it has been recommended to me to put a catch can on it. This is a new setup and I don't want to put fluid down and learn the hard way. Just being proactive.
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I put mine on the firewall on the passenger side. Any fluid that might make it up there drains back slowly.
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Do as you wish with your car, might want to install a parachute too.:D |
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That's a mystery and I don't have any clues but am doing what has been recommended since the vent is in that location.
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be careful of who you listen to, there's no reason to be plugging the stock vent and relocating it on your trans!
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40Coupe,
I use one on my stocker. I run line from the factory vent to the trunk. I can access it easy and it has a long line to drain back. I have never had and issues with my C6, but the C4 always left a little in the can when hot lapping. You can run a line tight to the tunnel and back into the trunk for a clean look. I use a polished aluminum can with a breather, looks nice and its out of the way. |
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My setup is like Ken's, never had a problem when I ran the 400 trans with the 200 I'll lose a little. Most stk and ss don't use trans coolers so that fluid can get hot in the later rds.
Ron 1151 Stk |
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I have one too, was good to have when NHRA instituted an oil down penalty. Could've used it a year earlier when the trans blew and pushed fluid out.
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That said, bracket races are typicaIly same day events, 2 time shots within a few hours of each other and go racing with the late rounds running minutes apart unlike Divisional and National events. Further, I double enter every big $ gambler race I enter as do many of my competitors, running minutes apart every round in eliminations. If I/they ain't puking fluid, you, test/tuning should never be puking fluid. A good cooler and synthetic fluid is all you need. Matter of fact I don't use an aftermarket external cooler, rather I use the cooler in the OE radiator. |
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Do you know why Stockers and super stockers run no cooler? 40Coupe came here because he wants info from those who Walk the Walk, and Talk the Talk...not someone who can Rap the Crap. As they say...(paraphrased)...talk to your self cause the screen ain't listening...you have officially been added to my ignore list. |
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Hey this ignore thing is great...his lips are moving and I hear nothing.
As Simon and Garfunkel say "The Sounds of Silence". |
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JAZ makes a small 1 pint breather tank for JR dragsters that fits nicely on most cars.
I mount them on the crossmember most times. I've never seen a Metric 200, or most other trans' that did'nt puke a little oil when hot lapping, no matter who built it , since most Stockers dont run a cooler on the trans. Almost every trans builder out there relocates the breather on 200's and Torqueflites. |
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That said, we are getting away from his question which was...what type and where to install a catch can and you along with Ken, Ron and Greg have offered their suggestions and my advice is unplug/reinstall the factory vent and problem solved.;) :D |
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I agree if the trans is a PG or 400 use the stock vent location, but I'd still run a puke tank just for the safety / keep it clean factor.
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I knew you would.;)
That said, I would never debate installing a component for safety sakes as each racer must decide for himself what if any component he needs to feel comfortable, above the sanctioning body's requirements for the type car and class they run. All I know is that not one of my turbo400s built by a local builder as well Rossler over the past 20 years has ever puked despite cooking the fluid once or tiwce prior to using synthetic and all have been and are regularly hot lapped as well all retain the vent in the stock location. |
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Jerry Bickel sells the nicest one I've seen. It's a small aluminum can that mounts high on the firewall. I has a vent in the top and a conical bottom. You hook the trans vent to the bottom. If your trans pukes oil on a run, when you shut the engine off, the puked oil gravity flows back into the trans. Nice.
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I don't recall seeing anything mentioned in ANY of 40 coupes' posts to indicate what combo, trans,converter, engine ect. so I'm baffled by 1320 know it all advice. I guess when you run a 3500? stall converter you don't build much heat. My T-350 has the vent in the stock location and it will push a bit of fluid at times, My solution bought a small aluminum catch can put a filter in the top and ran the hose from my vent to the bottom of the catch can, mounted it high in LF fender behind the apron. This way if it pushes fluid out it runs right back in to the trans, can is out of sight and no leaking issues. Of course 1320 may have some inside info about 40 coupes ride that the rest of us are unaware of, if so I retract my first statement.Joe
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Having literally grown-up in a tranny shop, pretty much any racing automatic may blow fluid out of the vent. No matter how good the internal oil seals and sealing rings are, there is still a certain amount of pressure that leaks by and can blow out the vent. Just like an engine that has a small amount of blow-by that requires a crankcase breather system. Naturally, if the trans gets hot and fluid foams up, raising the fluid level, it will worsen the problem. Filling the fluid to the 1 pint low mark helps and won't hurt the trans. Sometimes just extending the vent by adding a hose run up to the firewall with a vent cap at the end will fix it. A trans-brake car probably is best with a catch can. I wonder how many transmission 1320 Racer has built? My .02.
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2. over 5000 passes and my trans ain't ever puked, maybe I'm just lucky.:rolleyes: 3. refer to post #21 |
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I use an old Hellmans Mayonaise jar......
I wire tie it to my frame and drill a hole in the lid...... Works good and who cares what it looks like.... It's just a dragster and you know how they all look alike. The Mayonaise jar makes mine stand out in the lanes.....and if my sandwich is dry I know where to get some sauce..... Ed your a friggen menace....LOL |
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Rich, all those that I have helped online and in person feel very different.
BTW, Ricky's engine let go on Sunday.:mad: |
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Sorry to hear that Ed....What broke?
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Why pray tell would ANYONE be on the converter for 10 seconds? GEEZ don't you have the coordination to deck it when the tree cycles, bet that dumptruck motor spins right up to that killer converter.It's obvious that all your "advising" has got Garret on here asking for input. Why would you care if he wants to set this up the way apparently his trans guy ADVISED him to? BTW you never did answer my question exactly what class of Super Stock is "E"? You stated that in fact you had a legal Super Stock car, it must be another ride since in your pics it's clearly designated as E something. Could it stand for EGO? Good day sir. Joe
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If ONE were to study the path of the fluid slung off of the direct drum and other internals, and passed through the pump and out the vent, ONE would see the problem. Those things weren't designed to spin at 7000 rpm. Baffling the vent passage won't work because the direct spins both ways. I have run the vent hose up to a nipple, brazed high up on the vent tube..That works fine but won't work with non OEM locking dipsticks (Yes, I said "dipsticks" in this post) The easiest thing to do is move the vent to the rear , as was used on some of the early 200's .The boss is already there on the case. Again , this info pertains to CLASS racers who happen to be following this thread. Anyone needing "advising",, PM me... LOL |
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Rich, you'll know before we know. All I can tell you is that both sides of the block are windowed.:mad:
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The new trans isn't one of my home built 400's but rather a class TH350 that came with a fitting in the top rear and the factory vent was plugged.
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I run a line to the trunk where I have a Jeg's catch can. It helps keep the underside of the car cleaner, ProTrans 727. Dyno
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That said, again, not one of my Rossler transmissions that I have been running since 2005 has the factory vent plugged, my transmissions retain the cooler circuit and I only run synthetic fluid, specifically Allison's TranSynd. My car(s) have been and are regularly hot lapped and my transmissions have never puked in ~5000 passes! IMO, you're just making it harder than it has to be for what YOU have and what YOU are doing. |
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40 coupe whos T-350 are you running?
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The new trans does have a cooler circuit. I do plan to enter it in a bracket race or two as I do every season. There is normally little cool down time in the later rounds.
It's a Coan unit. |
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nothing interesting or magical about it.:rolleyes:. Replace a home built turbo 400 with a lite weight/low friction turbo 350 and you'll run quicker.
It's the year 2012, the parts are available to everyone with the coin to run as quick and fast as they want even those that only test/tune. |
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40 coupe, got 1 of these in my car work on my buddies also. I don't run a cooler he does both units will push out a little fluid, not much but there is some. That being said I'm unsure why Coan put the vent there I'm surt there's a reason for it just don't know what that reason is. AS I've said previously I'd follow coans advice, they built the trans they know why they've done certain things, opinions are just that, until someone who runs the same stuff you're running makes a statement of FACT I'd disregard all the I'm sure well meaning "advise". If you get this thing back together as I'm led to believe you've hurt your engine, and have any issues with the trans you can PM me I don't know everything about this trans but I've figured out how to make it live for my application. Joe BTW I've found it best to run the Amsoil "super shift" fluid, clutches look like new after a season of running.
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