Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
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Please excuse me if this is a dumb question. I am building my first race car, with my Dad, and we had a question about the NHRA rule for stock eliminator cars.
Section 10, page 7 states: "Must retain complete stock front suspension system as produced by manufacturer for body used, aftermarket tie rods with Heim joints permitted. Lift kits/travel limiters prohibited. Sway bar optional. SeeGeneral Regulations 3:4." I don't think that everyone uses stock rubber bushings and I know that racers don't use stock front shocks either. Don't know about what people run for ball joints, but I believe that I want to reduce stiction in the front suspension. That being said would a drag kit like offered by Global West be NHRA legal to run on our 1969 Chevelle? http://www.globalwest.net/dragracingsuspensionkits.html Thanks in advance guys/ gals! |
Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
Andy,
Yes, you can use the global west bushings and you can even use a longer ball joint such as the ones offered by AFCO. |
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Thanks Terry. I am going to pursue the different options out there, including Afco as you recommended.
The last time our car was raced was in 1978 as a stocker. I was minus 1 yrs old then and the rules have changed a bit since then. The car means a whole heck of a lot more to me and my Dad than it's monetary value on the market. I am going to take the time to post the build of it on here, because I really dig reading and checking out other peoples stuff. |
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The global west stuff is nice, but hard to install.... I would go with the greasable afco bushings, that's what I put on my car after talking with greg hill, they are very very free now..
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Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
Delrin bushings are nice but the same can be accomplished as a means to reducing stiction with black polygraphite bushings by clearancing the inner sleeve and adding zerk fittings to the outer shell. Longer ball joints than are available from either afco or howe are a must in an effort to gain much needed travel along with the right coil springs. But if you want the best setup, contact Alf Wiebe.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM"]THE PROOF IS IN THE PERFORMANCE - YouTube[/ame] |
Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
Thanks Fleming, who is Greg Hill?
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Thanks 1320racer, I run the prototype machine shop at work so I could modify parts too, or just buy them. I will do some research on Alf as well. If our car could leave like the one on the video, i would be happy!
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Nice video, it bounced to much off the wheel stand. :)
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Had single adjustable gas charged Koni shocks upfront. With the then new engine/power, it needed and I would have installed AFCO BNC DA had I not sold it.
Andy getting a GM A body to leave like my former car with 59% of its 3880 lbs. on the front wheels is about everything being right. BTW, that is footbraked launched at 2500 RPM and Todd witnessed it carry the front wheels much much farther. |
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I installed global west kit with factory cross shafts in mine, since i was unsure of the aftermarket shaft, Easy as pie. It also has upper ball joint spacers, aluminum, about 1/2". 350/255 combo leaves pretty hard, But not like the above crazy hp big block bracket car that should stop commenting on the class racers board.
Chris Chapman |
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First and foremost I want to be a race track, running this car with my Dad, Father's Day weekend of 2014. Then run it for the summer and start picking it apart after that. At that point, it's ON! I am lucky to have access to a full CNC machine shop, Solidworks and I can TIG weld. With off site access to laser scanners and feral arms, my only limitation is the time and obtaining actual proven racing knowledge from cats like you on here. Thanks. |
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Andy, those cross shafts aren't any better than stock and more important they will do nothing as it relates to making this car work.
That said, there is no one posting on the net that knows better how to make these cars with small tires and stock/aftermarket/bolt on suspension work better than I. Further, there are only 2 other Chevelles and 1 Buick GS in the country last I knew or cared that are on par with my former car and they belong to Kevin Borgstrom '69 Chevelle B/SA , Ralph Landolfi '71 Chevelle B/SA(if he hasn't sold the chevelle yet) and Jason Line '71 Buick C/SA and what do they all have in common...they all run front and rear suspension kits designed, built and sold by Alf Wiebe and only one, the heaviest and least geared had 60 footed 1.28.;) IF you want your car to work like mine and theirs, he's the guy you need to speak to. Do it right the first time. There is no bolt on suspension kit/parts on par, no mind better. Be advised, that even with the best, the end user still needs to tune the suspension and chassis to achieve the results I have which becomes evident once you know that the chevelle in the other lane in my video below also has the same suspension components as my car, going down the track with his front wheels on the ground at 10 seconds in while my car which btw weighed ~ 180 lbs. more IIRC is still carrying the wheels. |
Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
I did buy stock upper control arm bushings and machine the "teeth" off the ends of them, then took brake cylinder hone and honed the inside of the bushing so that it slid on and off the shaft easily, then greased them really good, I used the moog kit with the offset upper shafts.. It was really free moving after I tightened everything up and saves you a ton of money.. if you look on alot of the good working stockers alot of them are this way..
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all I'll say is that everything that can be be done, has been done with these near 50 year old cars as the rules stand now. Would love to hear and see how you made out with this car in 3 years. Do come back and show us.
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removing the "teeth" aka serrations has been done for at least 40 years. The bushings I referenced do not have serations.
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To each his own, I'm in this to compete not to try to reinvent the wheel, spending years trying to build a better mouse trap while my life and another season passes me by.
Keep in mind also that with the best working stock eliminator cars, it's not what you see but what you don't see that sets them apart. The devil is in the details and sometimes illegal or at the very least gray.;) Anyway, good luck on your endeavor. |
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For the A body gm cars you will want to talk to Alf, his stuff got my car leaving so hard it uncovered some "weak links" and starting causing damage because of a fuel bog...He helped out with a fix for that too!
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Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
The stuff from Alf front and back are hands down the best pieces you can buy and use for an Abody GM. Everybody with an Abody drag car uses these pieces.
If you are on a budget for the rear suspension, an Anti Roll bar from BMR or H&R, along with adjustable upper arms and no hop bars with multi mounting positions is the way to go. For the front, del alum bushings with the extended length upper balljoints is the way to go. Alf sells a kit with all that stuff, and controll arm shafts that works great. |
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that comment had nothing to do with HP and I agree, "everybody" with an A body drag car does not use Alf's stuff.
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I miswrote that, I should have wrote that something to the effect of " The high HP and serious no holes barred race cars have that in them. Not the budget minded cars
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All because you have your suspension figured out? |
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Hasn't there been more than one thread on Alf and when racers try to get ahold of him he seems to be out of business? Please correct me if I'm wrong. But thats the sense I get.
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Alf does not have a website/blog/catalog, etc. There's no checking out his stuff and getting prices other than speaking to and looking over the cars of racers using his stuff. Alf builds a limited number of kits a year after payment in full is received.
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Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
My car had the old school bushing trick, but when a bolt backed out and so did the bushing I decided it was time to make it right with global wests. I was concerned with wheter theyre shafts would be legal or so I used my stock shafts. Also it does not have any weibe chassis parts, and I have no intention of changing because it works excellent as is. Someday it may become a problem as power levels increase yes, but not anytime in the near future.
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Re: Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question
After all my research, I went with...
Afco steel bushings Afco low friction ball joints Global West shafts Speed Tech bump steer kit and solid body bushings I spent a lot of time paying attention to the big wheelstand cars. There was no other option, Santhuff shocks and Landrum spings to finish the front. |
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Is ALF an Indian (the country) Company?
Alf Engineering Pvt Ltd is a leading OE manufacturer of automotive Chassis, and currently manufactures over 1200 frames/day from its plants across India. |
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Never mind the India country.....I believe you are talking about Alf Wiebe suspension parts.
One comment I found: yes the kit is designed for completely stock bolt on suspensions, but also i think a lot of people overlook the horsepower levels its designed for, i have yet to see anyone mention its limitations in that category. it is basically designed as a ladder bar conversion, the upper arms are converted into a wishbone locator, that does nothing but hold the rear laterally. this really short ic makes the car hit the tires extremely hard and therefore will get a heavy low hp(600 or less) car moving FAST. theres on universally disliked individual that has been running alfs suspension for a while and loves to post pictures of his car with the front end 6' in the air running mid tens. if he put more power to the car, it would get a lot harder to tame. it would either hit the tires hard enough to spin them or make the car want to stand up way to high. But, this seems to talk about rear suspension that is a replacement for stock rear suspension. I believe the thread is about front suspension. It really doesn't matter to me. If you believe that you have he best stuff....go with it. I certainly will not try to sell you on what I use, I know it works for my cars, but might not for yours. |
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Didn't ALF have a TV. show a few years back, wasn't he some kind of alien???????
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Most people remove old bushings with a blunt air chisel after putting rust penetrant on the areas where the bushings are pressed onto the arms. It is fairly common for the holes in the arms to be a little out of square, either factory, from use, or after removing the old bushings. You will find out when you try the solid steel bushings; bushings with soft inserts mask the issue. You may have to open up the holes in the arms a little, tack weld the outer bushing sleeves, and check for alignment with a 1/2" rod and the inner sleeves. Then you bend the ends of the arms until alignment is perfect. Upper arm bushings are often one piece and you just weld the bushings in as best you can, after opening up the holes in the arms enough to achieve perfect alignment. Press fit is OK if you end up with perfect alignment, and that may not happen. Use either high pressure chassis grease or moly cam lube on the friction surfaces.
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