ATI Balencer removal
 

I am trying to remove the balancer and it is not budging, this one was put on not by me so I don't know if they used anything to prevent seizing but I was using the remover/installer I bought from ATI a while back (with many good results) but now it has started to split the adapter into the big screw and is trying to dig a hole into the crank snout, I know the parts are guaranteed for life but gezzzz. any tips on what to do? don't want to heat it, but plan on sending the balancer back for a refresh anyway. heeeeeellllllllpppppp!!!!!

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Remove tha balancer body from the hub FIRST---attach puller to the hub then remove the hub from the crankshaft-- hub should come of easily---FED

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

thanks, I will give that a try!

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

ATI balancer hubs are supposed to be honed to fit the crank snout. ATI gives a range of interference or press fit for various sizes. Sounds like the balancer was never honed and was installed with more press than it should have.

I have broken many std balancer removal tools but have had good luck with that ATI remover/installer.

Lube the threads with anti seize or a high pressure type grease and it may help to use a propane torch on the hub area.

I have had balancers on so tight I had to use a pipe on an adjustable wrench and wedge it under a bench to get extra leverage so the balancer/remover/crank does not turn.

The first move is the tough one....once it starts moving it should come off.
Once it's off someone has to measure it for proper sizing and you need the crank snout size measured with a Mic.....

If you have the ATI remover it should work as it is about the best remover out there and mine has never failed me....

The heat from the torch is really not hot enough to hurt anything but the front seal........heat might help...

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

well that put an end to it for now, I went and placed the wrench under a bench and tried again, this time it broke the bolt off in the balancer, and finished off the puller. grrrrr. can a machine shop get this thing off now?

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Getting the broken bolt out should not be to bad if you don't bugger it up...

The bolts you were using look like poor quality.

Once things start to go wrong and mushroom or deform....it's time to stop and regroup.

We just did a job in our shop that went like this.....

Pull the front of a 6.0 GM engine in a van......Could not get the balancer off until we borrowed a puller made specifically for the new style balancers.

I think your ATI tool was damaged and right there you needed to stop and either fix it or get another one.....

One way or the other you were going to break something it looks like from the pictures. I have seen references to a power tool for pulling balancers but never saw one or used one.......and I would guess not many shops have anything better than that ATI remover.....

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Sure looks like a Grade 5 bolt you need a Grade 8 bolt for sure----when you do get it off check the crank diameter and the inside of the balancer you need to hone the inside of the balancer to provide at least .0001 clearance as well as installing with a very light coat of anti-seize to prevent this. It went on it will come off you just have to work it---- get a good easy out and a LEFT handed drill bit to drill that bolt so you can get the easy out into it correctly ---any good machine shop will have what you need hopefully you can borrow both the bit and the easy out ---FED 387

PS you might get away with using a gear puller if you take your time and go slow

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf

You definitely do NOT want the balancer to be larger than the crank snout. It needs to be a press fit and once it is within the specs ATI recommends it will go on and off without any drama..

Press should be just under .001 meaning the balancer is smaller ID than the crank snouts OD by that amount.

A loose fit or slip fit balancer defeats the purpose and can cause broken parts and the crank and balancer will have metal fretting on their mating surfaces....

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Rich-- I misspoke I meant .0001 smaller than the crankshaft diameter not larger --- thanx for catching my error

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

yes i understand the fit. I did not put this one on. I just have to get it off. the bolts were what came with the puller and I believe it was a grade 5. I thought about going and getting 3 grade 8 bolts but didn't. now I have to deal with what I have. I am thinking I can possibly get the cover off enough to take timing chain off and remove crank and use press to get this thing off. will deff. remove outer hub of balancer. is there something I am overlooking or is this a feasible method?

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

No problem and it is good that ATI shows that spec sheet on balancer to crank fit specs.

For years and years we just put them on and never measured anything. Had many instances like Keith is having.

I can tell you for sure that press fit when too much can be a disaster..

I pressed many pistons on rods as we did not use heat. If you went beyond about .001 press on a steel rod with a cast piston you were in the danger zone.....

Heating the rod is a much better way to do that operation.....
I have heated up balancers to try and make it easier.....aluminum mostly...

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

I know ATI would tell you to remove the balancer from the alum.hub,then put the hub in boiling water to expand it,and slide it on the crank snout,it worked but you had to be fast lol..Of course after you went to remove it,it was welded on!.On your deal your going to have to separate the two by removing the countersunk tork bolts (they may be tight).You may be able to see a few threads on the broken bolt,if not you'll need an easy out.You can also try a quality gear puller,give the snout a shot with a penetrant ,then have a buddy hold a heat/stripper gun on the hub while you turn the puller. Good luck! gsa612

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Not a feasible plan to try and get chain off unless you cut it to remove crank.....

That balancer will come off with a good remover, good bolts and make sure you set it up straight so it pulls all 3 bolts evenly.....and hits the crank squarely without damaging it.....

You do not have to remove the outer ring and it makes no difference if you do anyway. The hub is steel not aluminum....

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

ordered the replacement parts for the puller and picked up some grade 8 bolts. I will try a little heat under pressure when I get back to it. of course the company is out of Washington. so it will be a while...nice that it is lifetime guarantee and they picked up shipping too

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

You may have a steel hub,the one I have is alum. on a BBC stocker.Here's a link to the install./remove instructions. www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf gsa612

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

Keith,
Not sure where you are in Delaware, but once you get it off if you are close enough to Baltimore it might be worth running it to ATI and have the fit it for you. Have someone measure the crank snout with a good micrometer and take that micrometer with you to use as a reference. Any machine shop with a Sunnen rod hone should also be able to do it but a lot of guys don't have the proper mandrel for that small size. I bought both of them for Big Blocks and Small Blocks.

Hope this helps !

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

I had one like that. Put as much pressure on the puller as you think it will stand, then hit the jam bolt with a hammer right on the end and hit it hard. Keep tightening the puller and repeating the process. That is what I had to do to get one off that was not honed before it was installed. Good Luck.

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

i ended up cutting the hub off. this thing was welded to the crank! was told by the machine shop that it was actually too loose when installed. Unfreaking believable take a look.....

Re: ATI Balencer removal
 

They may have used 609 loctite (green) or similar when they put on the damper which was loose,if you use too much that can happen. gsa612