Dime Rocket- DNQ
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Okay..What's this misleading title really about?
Well, a few years back, when Billy started the Dime Rocket threads, we decided that turbo cars and FWD's weren't eligible, seeing that it was too easy to make them run under the index. I do agree with that premise..but what Billy didn't tell you is that it takes about 40 years of doing this for it to be easy. Anyway , this project is a DF/S car , and it did run 1.05 under the NHRA index on the second pass the other night... A friend (who some of you might know) and I started on it in January. Easy does it ...and I'll be glad to answer any inquiries about it if anyone cares to hear it. I did take a few pictures along the way, but did not document every nut and bolt,..but I think I remember them... |
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Mark, how 'bout some basic info - Monte Carlo? Engine? year?
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Not a totally original idea, but first in this body style and weight, I believe. Before I forget..Blueprinted NHRA spec heads by Kadar Performance .. PM me , or see Facebook |
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So is it time to open the "Dime Rocket" deal to ANY combo? I'm OK with that. I'm OK with anything that gets people out to the races!
We could have a 3.4 Monte Carlo vs. Turbo Sunbird C/FS Matchrace! Loser buys the hotdogs. I'm not quite sure that Tibors prices fall into the "Dime Rocket" range though. Maybe this thing is a "ringer"? |
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Mark,
PM sent. Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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We have a family connection at Kadar Performance, so I don't know the pricing, but actually these heads needed to be straightened out anyway. Someone did a "valve job" on them last year,and carved them up pretty bad..Had to throw the valves away. These heads are literally laying on the ground at the U pull it yards. A little 3 angle , mill for cc's, and pop some new Comp beehive springs on them, and I don't believe they'd be too bad. |
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Thanks!
Yup, we'll stay in D , and away from the turbo cars...They're too easy haha |
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I may be the only other person interested, but I have a ton of questions. Mark knows why.
What wheel /tire combo up front? I see the spare wheels with skinnies on the rear. I also see the single belt. Did you replace the steering rack or just bypass the pump? What did you use for headers? Over the counter? (I somehow doubt it) Or custom? Not asking for secrets just an idea, as I have had a number of ideas to improve on what's available for this type of car. Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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Hi Rick,
Those are 22x 8 Mickeys on 15 x 7 mags we found in a U pull it yard. The car came with 16's so the calipers needed a little "adjustment". You nailed it on the rears. We will probably put tall ones in the rear when we come across some. Yes , the original rack has the in and out tubing spliced together to hold some fluid in. Much too fast a ratio, and very hard to steer with the slicks at low pressure, but I don't know what to do about it. We made the 1, 1/2 , to 1, 5/8 step headers, using pieces from Speedway, and merge collectors off of Ebay. We had a local chassis shop water jet the flanges. The overall length , basically was determined by the constraints of the front header exiting in the r.f. wheelwell. They are all welded...No tethers! Thanks for your interest. |
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Awesome pics, thanks Mark. I was trying to figure out how to get equal length in this type of car. I was thinking of adapting full length RWD headers to exit the fenderwell, but was wondering about legality. Your solution is much more elegant, if you can use that word concerning a dime rocket.
I figured the steering would be difficult. I was thinking of running the power steering pump with a water pump motor. Have you or anyone you know tried that? Again I know this is another of our issues with a heavy FWD car. Some taller rears should help with keeping the weight on the front. The W-bodies, Impalas and Grand Prixs can be raised in the rear using the variable rate spring from the Olds Intrigue. |
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Interesting headers Mark. Looking at that last photo howerver, I hope you never pop a head gasket!! Should be good for keeping the tires warm though....
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...Been doing them like that since the 80's. Not too many other good options on some of these things. I suppose it would be worse for a RWD to grenade a transmission and have the oil go under both drive tires ;-) |
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Mark,
Are you running factory ECM or aftermarket EFI? If factory, are you using only one O2 sensor? What mods to the transmission? Rick GTOMayhem |
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Timing and fuel curves moved around, limiters and shut offs set at a high value. No O2 's , no EGR, no vapor valve, etc are hooked to the computer. LT1 adjustable fuel pressure regulator..That's all. No electric trans signals of any kind...It is a mechanical T 125 C 3 speed. |
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Are you running a limited slip differential or spool?
Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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I don't know Mark. I think you may have exceeded the 'dime rocket' logic here. Nice build though.
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Not really sure of the meaning of your comment, buddy. My take is this: We started with a commonly available $1000 car, and not one part for it laying around. I built the engine, transmission, torque converter, headers, sub- frame bushings, trans. mounts, and adapted the water pump and alternator setups. We reworked the original 200,000 mile roller lifters and rocker arms. Fitted used wheels from the boneyard.. We had to pay someone to rework the OEM computer , but didn't buy a fancy engine controller system. We had to have an axle shaft made, which was a bit beyond my capabilities with the machinery on hand. Of course , we had to have a camshaft done, but is was something that you wouldn't find in used condition anywhere. The cylinder heads have to be done by someone competent, no matter what the build is. Again, we don't have the equipment here to do them, but they are not anything fancy, or that would be expensive to have done.. My point in general would be..Do it yourself, wherever possible to keep the cost down...and that cheap is a relative term. So, I don't know yet, but I would guess 5-6 dimes ,and definitely a rocket. The guys here can call it whatever, as I said earlier |
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I have been searching for a receipt since I saw this last night to get a name and number. But cant find it. I have to get ready to leave for Div 3 race in Joliet this weekend. When I get back next week I will look some more. But I had a power steering rack modified to be used as a manual rack. Not the same car as you have here but it was a GM car. In any case they were able to change the ratio and it worked out great. Like I wrote I've run out of time. But I will look some more next week and try and find it. Good chance they could do one for this car too. And it was not too expensive. If I remember right it was a couple hundred bucks. |
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Thanks, Rob
Might be interested in that...as long as it doesn't put over and out of the D/R designation. Good luck |
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Finally found the name of the place after asking around on another site where I originally found out about it. The name of the place is Rack Doctor in Hemingway SC. The bad news is it looks like they may no longer be converting them to manual racks. Not sure why. But it may still be worth checking with them to see if they know someone who does still do them. Or if maybe for some reason they just dont have them listed on thier site anymore.
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Mark,
I would love to see more pictures of the car. No detail would be to insignificant. Thanks in advance. And some more info on its performance. Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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Just put it back together after fine tuning some stuff after the first outing. Working on adding weight ,as we speak. We plan on running it again in a few weeks. We don't expect any big numbers @ 100 degrees and 4500 ' air though. |
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Solid upper torque arm and lower cradle bushings
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Thanks for more pictures Mark. I definitely have to purge my brain of street vs strip cars. I knew the torque arm bushings needed to be firmer, but never really thought about solid. Did you do anything to the lower motor mount and transmission mount? Looking forward to anything you can share. How light were you able to get it before you started adding weight back?
Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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Can I borrow your car for Indy?
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The OEM (r) front engine mount remains intact but we added two solid ones to the trans case .One in the left front behind the starter, and one where the right axle exits the trans. The transmission will sit firmly in place while the engine is out of it. About 2930 with no ballast. Bob, I'd love to see that , but you'd have to get in line... |
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Update here:
We got all the permanent weight for DF/S mounted up front and added a small weight box where we could easily fine tune the scale weight. Have to say , it didn't help much with the traction though. We're hoping it will be somewhat better at a national event prepared track, in the daytime We haven't really done anything with the suspension yet. I'm going to have to research the availability of an adjustable front strut or at least a stiffer one. Then maybe fool with the camber and toe in. Still need to do something about the steering rack. We need to replace it with a manual one or maybe one tooth less on the pinion? Anyway..Last night at Wild Horse: 90 to 100 degrees 4000 to 4600 da 28.5 baro All runs between 1.09 and 1.14 under NHRA index for sea level tracks. |
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Ya know Buddy, just when I start thinkin that you're getting soft or thinkin about givin up, ya come up with sumpthin innovative and different! I'm impressed!
AND it's affordable! |
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Somebody said a while back that some cars just have to be built.
Even if only a few of us care. Thanks, bro |
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Go Mark. Congrats.
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http://zzperformance.com/3800/suspen...ion-mount.html http://zzperformance.com/3800/suspen...dog-bones.html http://zzperformance.com/3800/suspen...ral-links.html http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...y_Code=3800_BS http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...y_Code=3800_BS http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...3&maincatid=53 You can use the KYB AGR adjustable front struts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-734058-F...618897&vxp=mtr |
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Thanks, Joe
I think we could use the struts. The rest has already been addressed or lists only the 3800 (Buick) engine. I'm thinking we need to change the top of strut swivel to something of a spherical bushing nature. That in itself ought to help with the hard steering problem. Do you think we could find something close, or time to fab something there too? You know anything about the rack/pinion tooth count deal? |
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