1971 Buick 455 GS F/SA G/SA Build
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A few years back I bought a 1971 Buick GS 455 stocker 315/330 HP. After taking delivery of the car I rebuilt the rear suspension, changed the fuel system, rejetted the carb, put on fresh tires and headed for the track. I was surprised when the car ran 11.35 on a 11.85 index (F/SA) on a 2130 foot track with a 27.80 baro in July 4500 DA, although the car was 135 pounds light for F/SA. I put the car away for a few years but couldn't help but think the car had potential if the engine was legal. This last week I got the car out of the garage and pulled the engine and put it on the dyno, then a tear down to determine what I was working with. I will post pictures of my engine build as I go, I will be looking for 30 extra HP out of the engine, if I can get that I will then look very hard at the drive line. I can't help but think if I can get a few hundred more RPM peak out of the engine I can then gear up to a 4.30 gear with more converter. Any advice or information on this build will be appreciated. Dyno test as the engine was pulled from the car.
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Re: 1971 Buick 455 GS F/SA G/SA Build
Got any more dyno pulls with a broader range of rpm? Ie lower and higher.
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Re: 1971 Buick 455 GS F/SA G/SA Build
Subscribed-always nice to see a Buick build. Jason Line still has his world championship GS and at the 4 wides last year (I believe) in C/sa as a 70 he posted some sub 10.50s. Line Performance would be my choice for help with a Buick stocker for sure.
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What rear end gear is in the car now? You might be surprised how little gear a Buick needs. I know of a 455 Pontiac stocker (same theory as a 455 Buick) that only runs a 4.10 gear and will run in the mid 10's.
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Just sayin' |
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Keep in mind I NEVER get in near sea level conditions. Glenn you've seen the previous dyno data how would run the gear stack? Gear ratio is 4.10 12 bolt.
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I agree, in my line of thinking, first I need to get the car out of the hole, more gear, more converter, less internal trans weight, at this point I can deal with the first to second gear drop, but a 1.53 60 not going to get it done, theres lots more there. I believe a 4.10 gear could work in a 29.90 baro but I never see that. So with a 470 CU IN engine with head flow in the 220s @ 28" I think I'am going to concentrate on the heads and intake in that order after the short block is freshened with a modern ring pack. |
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Suggestion.
Check out Dick Millers website regarding your type suspension. D |
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Thanks!
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Just throwing this out there...I see you're testing at 600rpm per sec (which is standard) did you (or would you consider) dynoing at 300rpm/sec? The reason I ask is it has a heavy rotating assembly and a super steep gear might actually slow it down as too much torque wasted spinning up the heavy internals?
Like I said, just throwing it out there....food for thought as it were. |
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In stock your not suppose to be able to do anything to the heads and intake besides a valve job right? although judging from your other post and that you seem to have a in house dyno and who knows what other equipment your probably perfectly capable of altering that to your advantage.
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Jason Line 70 Buick Gran Sort 10:45 in C/SA at Indy this week!
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Different valve angles and seat width effect flow, and that's just as two examples of what he meant by "work on the heads". There are many more legal things to do before resorting to "port the heads and cover it up" as you're insinuating. Uncalled for imho, there are a lot of people with a lot of equipment, doesn't mean they must be cheating because they have fancy tools. |
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Just wondering where you got the car? I ran the same combo in the past I have a good set of 71 heads TA SS valves with Poston springs off the car along with a few other parts. I am located in Texas now formally Va.
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the correct question you answered though(thank you) basicly should've stated how much and what can you do with in the confines of a valve job to find gain, and the statement about the tools was just meant to mean he seams to have the tools at his disposal to play with valve jobs and test effects,and if i'm correct from his other post hp hunter also really seams to know what he's doing when it comes to building engines and making power, so i tend to watch his post there normally interesting. the other part of this i find interesting is that i've read that low lift flow isn't always a good thing do to the possibility of reverse flow during the overlap period or stopping intake flow too soon. but in a stocker with a .390 ish lift limitation low lift is all you have so i guess you get all you can. |
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20 top/25 seat/45 below and 70 in the throat. Make the 20 plenty big(not to the point of unshouding, lol) then deck to bring back cc's. Instead of a 30* backcut on the valve(normal with a 45 seat), with a 25 seat, cut back 15-20* instead, basically anything to break the edge. This works on sbf, not sure of the chamber clearance on a BBC or Pontiac/Buick etc. HP Hunter, is this the type of answer you're looking for? pfordamx, low lift is always good as the valve goes past it twice and more time is spent at that point then at the peak which most seem to focus on. I've never heard of (better or more) low lift not being a good thing, ever, but I'm willing to listen/learn from others...with validation and testing of course. |
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i have no independent testing to back that up i've just read the discussion quite a bit on speedtalk but more ways to prevent the port from flowing in reverse then limiting low lift flow but consequently i would think those two things would almost come hand in hand.
and HP hunter i really didn't intend any offense i enjoy your post. |
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I have a set of virgin 149 heads make me an offer
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"pfordamx, low lift is always good as the valve goes past it twice and more time is spent at that point then at the peak which most seem to focus on. I've never heard of (better or more) low lift not being a good thing, ever, but I'm willing to listen/learn from others...with validation and testing of course" But at the same time you have to consider where the piston is.................. |
Re: 1971 Buick 455 GS F/SA G/SA Build
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Some very important tooling showed up today!
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Nice!
You don't scrimp on tooling do you! lol Like they say, if you're gonna do it, do it right. I too love following your threads. |
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I really didn't see any other way, considering how many times those heads will be on and off the bench, repeatability will be very important, I should have some as run flow numbers soon. |
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Can't wait, I can imagine some must be concerned with you showing "secrets" lol!
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Intake flowed @ 28 inches 4.350 bore SF 600 bench .200 120 .300 177 .400 207 Exhaust flowed @ 28 inches 4.350 bore SF 600 bench no pipe .200 95 .300 124 .400 143 .460 149 As you can see I've got a real power maker here............. |
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Where are the flow figures for .100 lift? Are these the heads off the car that have a "normal" 3 angle valve job or untouched as produced at the factory? As my post a few years ago mentioned I improved my low lift flow substantially at the expense of a small amount of loss at .400 lift. This helped my car measurably. Since that time i have done more experimenting with valve jobs, back cuts, etc. with surprising results. The oem valve seat is 45 degrees, right? I would try a 37 degree and lots of experimenting with "different" types of valves. Oh yeah, make sure the heads are cut close to minimum cc's before anything is done (saves surprises later). Ron.
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Maybe I'm missing something here. I thought valve seat angles had to be within 1 degree of the factory angle.
Pete |
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That 1 degree refers to the valve inclination angle (I.e. the angle of the valve stem in the guide), not the valve seat angle. Any valve job is permitted as of (I think) 2009 in stock eliminator. Ron.
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Thanks. That changes my line of thinking.
Pete |
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