1985 Mustang GT help
I have a 1985 mustang GT that I would like to slowly start building as a stocker. Im also a newbie to this style of racing. So I appreciate any answers!
Does the cylinder heads, block, intake manifold need to be E5 ? Does it need to be the original carb also? Is an aftermarket manual trans legal? Thanks for any help!! |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Heads, intake and carburetor must be factory and have proper part # as on NHRA site or CLASSRACERINFO.com. You can run an aftermarket transmission, used Liberty's and Jericho's out there and are pretty much bulletproof for your combo, T-5 will not last for long behind a stocker. 9 inch or 8.8 rears are the best choices, 9 inch stronger and has a better selection of gears, 8.8 uses less power to run. Lots of part available for a Mustang stocker. Don't limit yourself to just stock, car can be made to hook on small tire with a super stock motor, I have noticed the s.s. fields light on car count this year compared to stock.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
It's extremely important to get and read an NHRA rule book.
Read and reread the Stock and Super Stock sections from top to bottom several times before doing anything with a new build. Make up your mind and decide where you want to go with your car. Otherwise you will waste a lot of $$$. And don't try to out think that book, either. I bought a $600 Holley carb that I thought would pass for SS and now know I need the $700 QuickFuel to be legal. Good luck and ask,ask, ask. Dale |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Depending where you are, I have a bunch of correct 85 5.0 4 barrel cores parts, including cylinder heads, cabs, intakes etc and am also looking to sell my 85 LX HB Stocker, either rolling, or with a basic, low maintenance Stocker engine, that has gone a best of 12.32ET in M/Stock. I used a Jerico 4 speed in my Mustang, I tried a stock T5 the first year, ended up with 2 broken transmissions. My car has the 8.8, with aftermarket internals, and has held up well to low 10 second passes with a bracket SB Ford and the Jerico, with 4.88 gears, but I did break 2 ring & pinions when using 5.13s. I think a 5 speed would likely be quicker, but also a bunch more $$$. If you were to run the car as an N Stocker, you dont require a roll bar and harness (at least at this time), but with all the faster cars in the other lane, plus the flimsy construction of the FOX cars, a roll bar (or cage) and subframe connectors are highly recommended. Also best to stitch weld and reinforce all the rear suspension mounting points and rear crossmember area, BEFORE it gets torn up. Be sure to have the axle tubes welded to the cast center if using a 8.8.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Thanks for the help guys. I will get a rule book and study it.
The was already a race car, so it already has a 10 point cage and tubular front end. I would be interested in some of your parts. Im in NJ |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Looks like I really need a rule book!!
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
I have a bolt on ready to go 4180 carb with flow documentation from my stocker if interested, along with a box of spare carbs. The crappy thing that Ford did to the 83-85 engines, the intakes are casting # year specific. I am sure they did the same with other years too.
You can't go wrong if Rory has extra heads, intakes and carbs, to not pursue making that deal! Another clarification for the 85 GT, its a stick only combination. The block is not casting number specific. A Mexican block or approved aftermarket block is ok. Hydraulic roller cam conversion kits are legal. Front and rear suspension is very rules dependent. No coilover conversions, or aftermarket K-members. The initial investment in a good trans, bellhousing and clutch/flywheel may be scary. But those components will last for many years with a lot of abuse behind these motors. Good luck, Sean |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Thanks for all the help guys. As far as the front k-member goes, Im sure I can find a stock kmember and a- arms for basically free or pull it from a bone yard.
Do the rear control arms need to be stock? Can the stock ones be boxed? Does the bore need to be 4.00? I have an old boss service block half filled and I think its at 4.060. Manual trans is the only way I would go. I would have to keep an eye out for a good used setup. Any of you guys run the east coast stock/super stock series? |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
You can replace the rear control arms and use a relocation type mount/arms on the upper arms. It has to relocate at the housing and not the body attachment point though. You can overbore the block, but only within the allowable tolerance by the rules.
Again you really need to get a rule book so you can see what you can and cannot do. A few of us have used a 5 speed, but the majority run a 4 speed Jerico. |
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I think a member can post a link to the Products List, but I'm not sure. PM me with an email and I'll send you a copy of mine, but not the rule book. It's a PDF file. Dale |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
You may have to register to view... http://www.classracerinfo.com/Engine...2366&MAKE=Ford
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
As stated by many, get a rulebook. deff. can not run a tubular k member, has to be stock, 4 bangers and V8 work, make sure you get the factory control arms with the factory k member. I read an article in MM&FF years ago about a place in central FL that builds T-5 transmissions to handle more power, probably 10-12 years ago article. Jericho's and Liberty's are the choice but a Doug Nash/Richmond 5 speed can work if you find one cheap. Liberty can trick it out. Heavier than J or L. Find as many older articles on Project Stocker that Evan Smith built in MM&FF.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
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Competition Carburation uses a flow bench. That's who blueprinted my carb. |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
So it looks like the carb needs to be :
E5PE-BMA OR E5ZE-GA MANIFOLD: E4ZE-EA & GA......ALUMINUM?? HEADS: E5AE-CA & GA Am i reading this correct? |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
You're right on the intake and cyl head #'s. All of the intakes for these are aluminum as well.
As long as the carb is a 4180 it does not have to be a year specific carb anymore. So don't get hung up on the carb casting number unless you're restoring. My car has a GF5R, the T5 G-Force would be a huge waste of money for how much they cost, as they do not have inline shifters. Sean |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
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I put his innards in my '87 street/strip Mustang w/ a T5 about a year and a half ago. I don't know how his stuff would fare in a Stocker, but he's a great guy to deal with. Plenty of info on the web about his A5. (A T5 with his stuff in it.) He'll sell you the parts, or an entire trans. |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Anyone know if a boss service block is acceptable? It's a D1 or d2, haven't looked in a long time.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
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But ask your local tech. Ive been told that blocks aren't critical as long as the specs match the application. Dale |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
I got in touch with the NED NHRA tech for some clarification. I can use the vintage boss block.
I got lucky and found carb, intake and heads local to me and picked them up. |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
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The rear lower control arms cannot be adjustable in length...no heim ends. The uppers can be adjustable in length tho. From the rule book: SUSPENSION, Rear Must remain as produced, except for the following: Leaves may be changed (added or subtracted) as long as overall length and mounting points are used. Coils may be changed (clamped or spaced) as long as stock mounting points are maintained. Solid bushings in rear suspension permitted. Cars with rear coil springs may relocate the upper control arm at rear-end attachment point. Rear trailing arms may be replaced with NHRA-accepted OEM-type aftermarket units. Aftermarket lower unit must be non-adjustable and have bushed ends (no heims). Aftermarket upper unit may be adjustable and use heim ends instead of bushings. Sway bar(s) optional. OEM or aftermarket torque arm permitted only on vehicles OEM-equipped with a torque arm. OEM torque-arm attachment points at rear end must be retained. See General Regulations 3:4. Also, since your car was already a race car, you might want to check to see if the factory bumpers are still there. Here is a copy-n-paste from the rulebook about Stockers: BUMPERS Complete stock bumpers, guards, and braces (front and rear) mandatory, consistent with make, model, year claimed. Rear bumpers, guards, and braces optional on stock trucks. Energy absorbing apparatus may not be removed. |
Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Use Competition Carburation for your 4180 carb. Bob Oliver is the only one we have found that can make this carb work. And the 4180 is faster than what others use. Dick Miller is the one to go to for rear suspension. Check out his book "Hook and Launch". Save your money and use a 5 speed. If a 4 speed was faster pro stockers would be using them. Also a heavy wheel helps. This is a very good combo, But use your head and think for yourself. Most of the 85 5.0 people try to make this set up too difficult. Good luck and happy motoring.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Thanks for the help fellas, I can use as much help as I can get!
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
Post pics as you move along. I am very interested in your project. Good luck.
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Re: 1985 Mustang GT help
You might want to contact Bill Dyer in Port Byron Ill, he ran stock with 2 85s , a GT and coupe for years and now runs SS/N & M. He might have some stuff that would help you that he is no longer using. Contact me at wwmtlineman @aol.com and Ill give you his contact info. Put NHRA in the header so I dont delete it. He dont do computers
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