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Mike Meier 02-17-2019 03:57 AM

Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
1 Attachment(s)
After much debate I'm back in the Stock Eliminator game with the world's most expensive DF/S car.

A quick rehash of what was already discussed in the Stk/SS Tech section to bring everyone up to speed. I sold my Q/SA AMC Spirit last year. Bought a rolling dragster chassis with the intention of just buying a motor and just slapping it in there to run Super Comp (NOPE.....found out the chassis was twisted and though not that expensive to fix the chassis guy can't get to it til mid year, but I want grade points now).

On to the Stocker project and forgive me for the several tangents this may take.

My girlfriend had this 2007 Chevy Cobalt for a few years, hardly any miles on it due to her infrequent commute but we spent 3 years bringing it in for service to try and correct a gremlin in the electronics. What finally solved it in '16 was a dealership replacing the wiring harness after two other dealerships changed the ECU and TCM on several occasions. Fast forward to November of '18 she purchases a new vehicle but decides against trading in the Cobalt because the dealer only offered $500 trade in. I offer her a thousand after having already spent 2 years looking into the combo (bolt-on wise) and liking the potential (snuck out to the track with it in 2016 and ran a 16.90 in Drive on a humid night....1.30 over the index).
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Before I actually pulled the trigger on buying it, my big hang-up was finding wheels and slicks that reduced rotating weight and helped gearing. I ordered and tried-on a 13 inch dirt racing wheel that had the same bolt pattern but the back spacing didn't work out and they stuck out like a sore thumb. But I eventually found my drive wheel rims on Tire Rack, a pair of rims from Enkei.....it's a 10 lb ricer wheel meant for Honda Civics but it was the same bolt pattern (4 x100) and it was the right dimensions to put a slick on it (15 x 7). $466 later and those bad boys were at my door. Add in some Mickey Thompson 22x8 slicks and some 24 x 4.5 Mickey Thompson Front Runners ran the total up another approximately $850.......I told ya, worlds most expensive DF/S....the wheels and tires cost more than the car.

I did do some junk yard scrounging for the "front runner" wheels; fortunately the Chevy Cobalt donut rims are 15x4. Unfortunately it took over two hours at the junk yard to find two because every 4 lug Cobalt I'd come across was missing the donut. All the damn Cavaliers and Sunfires were 5 lug donuts.

Prior to all of this, back in November or December I weighed the car with myself in it at a CAT scale. It weighed in at 3,020 with the NHRA minimum weight being 2,830.

So today was the big day to finally bring the car out to Houston Raceway Park and make some runs. The only change I was going to make today was swapping from the street tires (45 lbs each) to the new slicks (25 lbs) and skinnies in the back (30 lbs). That alone was a 70 lb weight reduction coupled with some driver weight reduction of 25 lbs via diet, and clearing out some miscellaneous junk from the car (floor mats, engine cover, spare tire). I neglected to weigh the car on the first run before changing the tires but based on what it weighed a bit later I think I can reasonably approximate it.

So on to the results.

For my first run all I did was empty the trunk and pull the paper air filter. With the car in sport shift mode (start in "L", let it do the 1-2 shift, push the shifter into "I", let it do the 2-3 shift) it does a 16.50 in the humid 73 degree air. In hindsight I estimate my weight to be 2,890 lbs based on knowing the street tire/rim weights versus the racing tire/rim weights. The water temperature was at 207 F.

I went back to my pit spot and threw on the slicks / skinnies; which brought the car's weight down to 2,820 (which is 10 lbs under the minimum). This collectively picked the car up 3 tenths. I rang off three passes of 16.20, 16.18, and 16.22 over a two hour period with the water temp being in the 165 to 180 range..

This is very promising. Only 6 tenths over the index and nothing has been touched on the engine other than pulling the air filter.

The plan for next week is to order an exhaust header and down-pipe with catalytic converter. The stock exhaust looks pretty restrictive but I can't lose any more weight from the car otherwise I fall into a quicker class; so my idea is to have an exhaust place install a cut-out just before the cat then fabricate a low restriction exhaust / muffler. I can open the cut-out for racing Stock; leave it closed and leave on the heavy wheels to race in Street ET.

I'll see by next weekend how much ET I can pick-up with the header / down-pipe / cut-out then determine if my next step will be to have a higher lift cam installed (stock lift is .397 and FWDs can still go up to .430) or to try doing a computer tune with HP tuners, which I might need first anyway to run a NHRA Accepted fuel like 260 GTX or VP C-10.

Mark Yacavone 02-17-2019 12:26 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Sounds like you'll get there, Mike
Not sure what converter that takes but if you find out.let me know. You should able to come up with something looser but retain the lock -up.
Be careful on the cam .You don't want to kill much torque but bump the lift up . Street and strip pattern with about 220 duration lobes. Talk to Chris Padgitt at Bullet.
I wouldn't use a cut out, per se. Make the header extension pipe end with a flange , where you can bolt the street exhaust back on , or be able to play with collector extensions that I imagine would be fairly long.
Good luck

Mike Meier 02-17-2019 09:14 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone (Post 582751)
Sounds like you'll get there, Mike
Not sure what converter that takes but if you find out.let me know. You should able to come up with something looser but retain the lock -up.
Be careful on the cam .You don't want to kill much torque but bump the lift up . Street and strip pattern with about 220 duration lobes. Talk to Chris Padgitt at Bullet.
I wouldn't use a cut out, per se. Make the header extension pipe end with a flange , where you can bolt the street exhaust back on , or be able to play with collector extensions that I imagine would be fairly long.
Good luck

I think I will wait on the cam because I want to avoid opening up the engine as long as possible.

Regarding the headers, here are my options:

1.5" versus 1.75" primaries;

2.5" versus 3" exit for down-pipe

Short, mid-length, or long tube primaries (caveat is that the long tube header is only 1.75" primaries).

The other challenge is keeping it streetable by keeping the catalytic converter. I wonder if I could have the exhaust shop relocate the cat further back in the system, like just in front of the muffler that way I can still have a longer, unobstructed down-pipe; and just unbolt the cat / muffler section from a flange.

Thoughts?

gmonde 02-17-2019 09:31 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
whats the motor and trans ? I have tuned a few cars with hp tuners including my supercharged g8,, I will look it up

Dave Gantz 02-17-2019 09:47 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Sounds like a fun project, Mike. Where Stock came from.
Moving the cat back may not work. I'm no expert, but I think they need to be a certain temp be effective, and can't achieve that if they're too far back.

Mike Meier 02-17-2019 09:52 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by gmonde (Post 582794)
whats the motor and trans ? I have tuned a few cars with hp tuners including my supercharged g8,, I will look it up


Its the 2.2 liter L61 engine and I believe the 4T45 transmission (automatic)

Mike Meier 02-17-2019 10:07 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz (Post 582797)
Sounds like a fun project, Mike. Where Stock came from.
Moving the cat back may not work. I'm no expert, but I think they need to be a certain temp be effective, and can't achieve that if they're too far back.

Maybe I can just have two identical length down-pipes since they are both options on this web site. One with a cat for street driving; the other I can swap on when I get to the track.

Hell, the annual inspection isn't due until September and the last D-4 divisional is in July; maybe I'll do a cat-less down-pipe until inspection time as long as it doesn't throw a check engine light. In reality this is just going to be used for driving to Baytown for the monthly bracket points races and to 4 or 5 LODRS.

Mark Yacavone 02-17-2019 10:26 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Meier (Post 582800)
Its the 2.2 liter L61 engine and I believe the 4T45 transmission (automatic)

Looks like you have a 3.61 final drive and could use a 3.91 from an HHR, G6 or Saturn Vue

6130 02-18-2019 03:33 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Meier (Post 582801)
Maybe I can just have two identical length down-pipes since they are both options on this web site. One with a cat for street driving; the other I can swap on when I get to the track.

Hell, the annual inspection isn't due until September and the last D-4 divisional is in July; maybe I'll do a cat-less down-pipe until inspection time as long as it doesn't throw a check engine light. In reality this is just going to be used for driving to Baytown for the monthly bracket points races and to 4 or 5 LODRS.

You should be able to use a spacer for the rear O2 sensor to minimize check engine light problems when using a catless exhaust system.

MikeMoller 02-18-2019 06:27 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Meier (Post 582791)
I think I will wait on the cam because I want to avoid opening up the engine as long as possible.

Regarding the headers, here are my options:

1.5" versus 1.75" primaries;

2.5" versus 3" exit for down-pipe

Short, mid-length, or long tube primaries (caveat is that the long tube header is only 1.75" primaries).

The other challenge is keeping it streetable by keeping the catalytic converter. I wonder if I could have the exhaust shop relocate the cat further back in the system, like just in front of the muffler that way I can still have a longer, unobstructed down-pipe; and just unbolt the cat / muffler section from a flange.

Thoughts?

im guessing, but I would certainly lean towards the 1.5 / 2.5 combo. For lower hp cars, smaller is almost always better. You may also want to invest in some type of fuel pressure regulater that will allow you to adjust fuel pressure to the injectors.

Mike Meier 02-18-2019 10:13 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
A few quick updates on my parts I ordered in the middle of the night last night:

Ordered HP Tuners with 2 credits.

Mid-length headers with 1.5 primaries and 2.5 down pipe (with catalytic converter because "street legal")

I have the parts for a fuel sample valve but will leave that to a professional to install because I might set the whole thing on fire.

I am strongly considering running Sunoco 260 GTX (as opposed to VP C-10).

Mike Meier 02-25-2019 02:50 AM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quick update:

Unfortunately the test and tune night at Houston Raceway Park this past Friday was rained out so I haven't had the chance to make a full quarter mile pass with most of the modifications; but the local brackets are eighth mile and I have gone as quick as a 9.96 at 69.11 MPH.

A good number of my eighth mile passes were in 3 to 4 hundredth spreads with each respective major change.

Done:

Slicks, front runners, and light weight rims
Mid-length header (1.5 inch primaries, 2.5 inch collector) and down-pipe with 400 cell catalytic converter
Removed upper intake manifold and just running open throttle body (though car is now throwing DTC for the MAF Sensor
Fuel sample valve had been installed
Best run was at 2,850 LBS running 93 octane

Have not done:

Did not flash the ECU with HP Tuners. Walt Walker made some changes to the tune related to when the cooling fan comes on and how much torque is applied (he did not mess with any fuel related tables); it would not sync up properly as it was not recognizing the credits that I purchased with the device. As soon as I can get tech support to resolve the issue, I'm flashing the computer.

Need to drain the remaining 93 octane from the fuel tank, change the fuel filter, and replace with Sunoco 260 GTX. For the record, attempting to run a car that gets 28 MPG until it runs out of fuel is such a pain in the butt. I drove the 30 miles home from Baytown with the Low Fuel warning hoping it would run out of gas so I could dump in the race fuel to make it the rest of the way home.

When the mechanic across the street installed the header and down pipe, he hooked it into the stock exhaust, so I need to open things up a little.

Going to buy a tow vehicle on Monday because the Suburban crapped out in December. Need to get that inspected and registered by Wednesday so I can high-tail it out to No Problem Raceway's Thursday Test and Tune to try and get this car under the index.

Mike Meier 03-02-2019 04:55 AM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Made it back from Chandler, AZ an extra $700 lighter in the wallet due to a breakdown on I-10 with this ramp truck I bought; and probably in for some more as it's in the shop getting the check engine light related stuff taken care of. My comment on this; yes I knew what I was getting into but that's why I bought a truck with a 350 engine....everyone can work on it and parts are easy to find. I can have Jegs or Summit ship a long block to me for about $1,600 if this thing decides to spin a bearing or kick a rod. Ultimately I was happy to hear that the No Problem Raceway LODRS was postponed because I wouldn't have been about to make it out there.

But I digress....back to the DF/S

The Cobalt is completely switched to Sunoco 260 GTX. I drove to the track Friday night and managed to get a best of 26.8 MPG to and from.

The one thing that went wrong was that I couldn't unbolt the resonator from the down-pipe to go completely unmuffled. One of the nuts holding together was at an awkward angle and I wound up rounding it off with my impact wrench. I'll just have an exhaust shop cut it off.

I'm almost at the index. I started off with a 15.90 @ 85 MPH off the bat, followed by 15.94 @ 84, 15.86 @ 85, 15.89 @ 85, and 15.98 @ 84 (heat soak and fog was rolling in). Although the barometer was moving around a tick between 30.02 and 30.05; the humidity was parked at 93%; dew point at 59*, and temperature only varied between 61 and 62 degrees.

What was promising about tonight was that my sixty foot times were in the 2.32 - 2.35 range in this "meh" air and I went quicker in the quarter compared to two weeks ago; but two weeks ago my sixty foot was quicker. I hope that correlates to hitting the index or better when the air is better and they have a LODRS track prep. I still haven't even reflashed the car with HP Tuners because I was on the road and couldn't call their customer service guy about getting the credits on there to work.

rocketolds400 03-13-2019 04:22 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Very cool! Thanks for the progress updates and info.

I've been looking for a cheap daily driver, and this thread is making a Cobalt look pretty good... :D

Rod Greene 03-24-2019 08:55 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
I see you must have figured something out you went a 15.64 almost the index. If you could figure out how to cut a better light your car seemed real consistant. I applaud your efforts.

Mike Meier 03-25-2019 01:11 AM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod Greene (Post 585716)
I see you must have figured something out you went a 15.64 almost the index. If you could figure out how to cut a better light your car seemed real consistant. I applaud your efforts.


Traction control is acting like a throttle stop. I've had the same problem with a 2007 Dodge Charger and an Ecoboost Mustang which I bracket raced. I'd run the number all day but RT's were crap. The "free" solution to all of this was banned in Stock over 15 years ago: deep staging.

Mark Yacavone 03-25-2019 11:50 AM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
The traction control is, most likely, using the ABS to pulse the brakes.
How about disabling it by backing off the solenoid module on it?
Just a thought..No experience with Cobalts.

Bill Bogues 03-25-2019 08:25 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Mike : enjoyed our talk at houston. Us slow pokes need to stick together.Glad to see you getting close to index. It's always nice when you get to the one out of ten things you try that actually works instead of the nine others that slow you down. See you at Dallas.

Mike Meier 03-25-2019 11:26 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues (Post 585786)
Mike : enjoyed our talk at houston. Us slow pokes need to stick together.Glad to see you getting close to index. It's always nice when you get to the one out of ten things you try that actually works instead of the nine others that slow you down. See you at Dallas.

Thanks Bill. Hopefully I can get a tune file back before Dallas. Since I won't be racing the Houston Nationals or Tulsa that should be sufficient time for cams and a valve job before No Problem.

Jakedog55 08-02-2019 03:51 PM

Re: Chevy Cobalt DF/S and maybe keep it streetable
 
Can the Cobalt be run in EF/S? Thanks


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