Engine Oil
 

What are the advantages, disadvantages, If any, of switching over to synthetic engine oil. I'm currently using "regular" 20/50. I hear that besides the price synthetic tends to leak more.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T

Re: Engine Oil
 

We change it so often, I can't justify the price of the synthetic. And the real advantage of synthetic (as I understand it) is in wear lifetime. We change after every 25 passes... Life's not much of an issue. :)

Re: Engine Oil
 

I ran 20/50 racing oil for years and then switched over to half synthetic and half regular racing oil. I would use the weight of oil for how cold it was going to be. Then I mostly ran thin synthetics to gain horsepower from the oil pump not working as hard. Never had bearing problems till early 2010. Motor ran fine, but was getting bearing chips in the pick up screen. Talked to super stock racers, and they are telling me that oil manufactures are talking zinc out of the oil, especially synthetics and it causing bearing wear issues. Some of the super stock racers use a zinc supplement to address the bearing wear issue. Need to talk to stock and super stock racers and get the information first hand. My new motor uses 20/50 and I look for the high zinc content. No problems yet, but it takes a while for it to show up. I normally put a motor together and it stays together for quite a while.:cool:

Re: Engine Oil
 

Today's passenger car motor oils are formulated to be compatible with your street car's emission control equipment, and Federal EPA requirements have led to a reduction in formulated anti-wear chemistries like Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in API rated engine oils. As a result, the oil you buy today is not the same as it was 10 years ago. While this is good for your street car, it is bad news for your racing engine.
I switched to Joe Gibbs Racing Oil, my engine builder told me to run a blend. He said they had problems with straight synthetic oils. If you want any info on the oil you can e-mail: markpow@powers-motorsports.com

Re: Engine Oil
 

Maybe odd...but a friend that runs super street is now running Rotella in his 406 per his engine builder's recommendation.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Amsoil is the best synthetic racing oil on the market today. It was the first and still the best. Its been around since 1972 never had any problems in my motor,trans,or rear using any of there products. If you need anymore imfo i am a dealer contact me.

Rick

Re: Engine Oil
 

Diesel oils like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400, both 15-40 weight, have a lot of good additives like ZDDP, if they are the "old" CI4+ spec, and do not also meet CJ. EPA has attacked diesels too, and the traps etc. that they now have do not like those additives. So, the CJ oil is decent but no where near as good as the older CI4+. APE "lets" the oil companies say their new oil is "backwards compatible" so the new stuff like the gold band "low emissions" Delo says CJ and CI4+. My local Chevron distributor still sells the "old" stuff in 5 gallon and larger containers.

Re: Engine Oil
 

Brad Penn aka KENDELL, good ****.

Re: Engine Oil
 

No advantage for me using normal synthetics in throttle stop cars, altho I do run a heater to warm the oil to 160 deg before I start the car.
Class cars using ultra light grades yes, some major gains when using oils that have the viscousity of water.


Like was said before, I change mine @20 runs ,so its hard to justify the expense of synthetics.
I switched to Lucas Racing oil this year ,since it has a very high zinc phosphate content,and the results are excellent ,with no wear problems or lifter issues.
PLUS , the contingency award for Div win and r/u is a big plus !

Re: Engine Oil
 

I was having bearing wear issues also and i started using the gm engine oil suppliment (eos) in my oil!!it has zinc along with other anti wear additives and it has solved the issue so far
scott fifield