Do these numbers look right?
 

One screenshot is car idling, the other is at 2500 rpms. Still running rich as hell. I am out of things to check and not familiar enough with DFI to change anything internal.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

Bobby, according to that, your air/fuel ratio is over 14:1. That's not rich, that's lean.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

Where is the O2 sensor located? If it's in the collector, how far from the end?
I had all kinds of problems trying to tune for low rpms. Till I put in an upstream O2 sensor.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

Art has a point. If your wideband is in the collector, try sliding about a 2ft extension on that collector to tune low rpm stuff. The reversion is killing your accuracy, that won't be a problem at WOT

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

I do have it in the collector but I'm running in open loop so there is no correction coming from the o2 sensor. With that said, the air fuel ratio isn't fluctuating at all which seems odd.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

Bobby,
I was a driveability mechanic for a number of years & my stocker is pre-computer. That said, I'm not familiar with this software. I don't know if it disregards O2 input in open loop but beside's the 14.35 AFR in both graph's the "O2 FBK" is 0 as well. I don't know how cold PA is right now but to get the coolant to 80, that 02 should read something. What I really don't like is the MAP is reading almost atmospheric @ 1200. 7.5ms pulse width is really fat for idle, it does go to 6ms, still fat, revved up but the MAP still looks low.. Vacuum line problem, dead MAP, ........ do you have spare parts that you can A.B.A. test with ? Can you also backprobe the 02 connector with a DVOM to get an actual reading from it ? Does this use the stock MAP sensor ?

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

As Chad said, put an extension on the collectors for idle & part throttle. Unless you have had eight wide bands in the primary tubes to verify all eight cylinders are equal (they never are unless it has been put into sequential mode for cylinder-to-cylinder tuning) putting one upstream may or may not be accurate. Ten percent variation between cylinders is not unusual. At WOT, using one upstream, your indicated 13-1 a/f could be 12-1 or 14-1 on most other cylinders. EGT is not an accurate indicator either. Things other that air/fuel effect EGTs. Most agree that the average you see in the collector is best indicator if individual cylinder-to -cylinder tuning has not been done. Don't tie yourself into some magic number, find the air/fuel ratio makes your car run the best MPH numbers. Don't worry about what somebody else's car likes. Cars I have worked with like somewhere between 12.5-1 and 13.25-1 @ WOT. Mine likes about 14-1 idling & on the return road, with extensions on the headers, it's always in open loop.
Me tuning extensions are 3' long, with a 45 deg bend in the middle.
Your results might vary. LOL

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

When my O2 sensor went bad it made the car run really rich, hey don't like to be knocked around.
Try a new sensor along with the other good advise above.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

But wouldn't "open loop" behave as though there is no o2 sensor connected? It all comes down to MAP sensor and Intake Temperatures, correct? Is there anyone I could possibly send the DFI box to for checking? I feel there might be something internal going on.

Re: Do these numbers look right?
 

Open loop ignores the O2 sensors. Used only for a tuning reference when logging runs.