Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Butler
Mike Pearson, If the cars are the same motor, trans, wheel base tires etc and yours uses a down angle the position might work but.... All the factors must be the same. The Down Angle theory is not a cure all.
It only works when it works. Weighing the car out and finding instant centers for the positions and a starting point for stick versus auto versus T- Brake is THE way to do it but with a ladder bar and at best 3 holes slow choices works. Pinion angle must be adjusted as someone stated for each position tried to prevent bind or breakage. When we had our chassis shop which built and installed 4 links and ladder bars we even found a few cars where NONE of the positions worked. We moved brackets, added holes or moved the crossmember itself if it were too low in the car. It is not just angle it down in the car it could kill traction in some cars.
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I have raced my car with a ladder bar set up for 30 plus years. I have had both leaf spring and coil over set up under my car. Both combinations required the same set up. I experimented with other set ups with the same result as the person who started this thread. I have also set up several other superstock cars and a few bracket cars. They all responded well to the same set up. They all had good 60 ft times and were easy to drive. I am sure there are different ways to set the cars up. I would be very interested to hear some of the other ways that were sucessful for other racers. I have never had to run a car with preload.