[Mike Taylor 3601]

You need to set air gap,(clearance between disc,press plate,flywheel) I'm gonna assume you have sintered iron,or rag disc that does'nt have any marcel(spring)between facings,you can tell by pinching facings between fingers if has then facings will squeeze together,this is used to release smoother on street,oem disc,not good for racing.

You need to fab a stop somewhere,under pedal,in linkage etc.,first off it enables you to release clutch from same location everytime,and makes possible to adjust air gap,I have a stop that my bellcrank(Z bar) contacts and have micro switch also located there to operate line loc,or 2 step or both,having switch on linkage works better because pedal has to be pushed all the way against stop to activate,so if using clutch to shift does'nt activate if using 2 step
If using clutch to shift start w/ about .050'' air gap,have someone hold pedal down against stop then check air gap,I have made gauges out of whatever I had laying around in different thicknesses, a normal feeler gauge is usaully too short,I know long feeler gauges are available just have'nt got any for some reason. adjust linkage until get desired air gap,just be sure your pedal pusher puts against stop everytime.

You can tighten air gap down to .020''ish once you set air gap you need to start car on level surface put in gear without line loc and rev to starting line rpm/chip if car sets still your ready to go,if creeps need to increase air gap slightly.

Putting pedal against a stop will make R/T more consistent then you can adjust R/T with air gap of course less is quicker,another thing about air gap is wider gap hits tires harder,closer gap softens hit on tires, lower rpm will hit softer,higher will hit harder. My preference is running lower base and high side chip on starting line, some run more pressure use lower rpm w2step on starting line.

Mike Taylor 3601