[Bill Edgeworth]

FYI Jiffy Tite also has an industrial line of quick disconnects. You can buy the same size (500 series) for about $12 for the female valved socket. BUT the male ends do not have valves. You could get away with running two female valves of this type on the C&R check valve and save yourself a few hundred bucks on the fittings.
I spent the money on the Jiffy Tite automotive ones even though I have hundreds of the Industrial fittings at work. If someone wants to consider the cheaper fittings I buy them from PPE.com
I built the basic ice chest deal and decided to go with a 120VAC pump rather than 12VDC didn’t want to have to deal with a battery.
One thing to be very careful of is not to put in too big of a pump. I bought a sump pump from Harbor Freight that is 1/6 hp and only has 20 feet head pressure. DO NOT use a pump capable of high pressure remember your cooling system is probably only designed for 10-15psi operation 20 feet head pressure is about 10psi any more than that and you could damage something.
One thing I can say about it is you can go through a ton of ice.
Next step I’m going to try is what a friend that runs comp told me about; He said there is no need to spend $3,000 on a real chiller (and for me it would also mean buying a much larger generator). He said some people are building their own electric chiller. They use a 3.6 cubic foot Danby freezer and the rest is basically the same as what all of us are doing with ice chests. I may try it for a few hundred bucks compared to $3k for a real chiller. So I guess what you do is just fill the freezer with water throw in your pump plug it in and you’re done. Although I’d be a little concerned about cracking the liner in the freezer if you get it too cold and the water freezes.