Quote:
Originally Posted by Shabs
Hey y'all, been thinking bout doing a stocker with a stick and three pedals. Few ideas I've had are a 70-73 400 Formula, C5 Vette, or late 80's LT1 Camaro. None the less I really don't know a thing about stick combo's after poking my head around stuff for 2-3 years now and just trying to soak up whatever I can learn about em. I want a second race car and have loved class racing and stick cars so here's a few questions. I literally don't even know how to install a clutch on a street car so... I'm pretty clueless lol.
Who builds a good clutch and what am I looking at price wise?
Jerico or Liberty?
What kind of pedal should I get for the clutch?
What should I know about a stick car that is different from any auto? Besides the third pedal and banging gears while having fun! Lol
Thanks y'all,
Mike Shabareck
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The initial investment is rather high for the clutch, bellhousing and trans. Rear suspension and shocks are also critical on a stick car. Youngblood is the guy to talk to. Browell on the bellhousing with a window for clutch adjustments, and they are only $100 more than a quicktime, and it is a custom bellhousing. You can have the window placed where it works best for your application. The only downfall of a bellhousing with a window is recertification every 2 years. But clutch adjustments are really fast thru the window.
Another wise investment would be a means of data logging the clutch. This will show you how long it slides and what is going on during gear changes. As has been pointed out as well, a clutch can make weak parts live or good parts die in the driveline. Whatever you do, don't buy a clutch/flywheel assembly from a mail order house. Most stocker/SS clutches have low base pressures. Around mid 100 lbs and up is the norm. A clutch setup out of the box correctly is going to come from someone that understands the limitations of class racing. Low base and a means of counter weight will allow tuning the clutch to slide for launch and CW to lock the clutch in high gear.
Cost for a clutch/flywheel is $1900 to 2600 depending on a single disc no trick flywheel to small dual disc light flywheel. A bellhousing is $650 to 750, and the trans can range all over the place. G-Force has trade-in transmissions at a reduced price over a brand new one, completely refurbished and you pick your gear ratio's. You can also keep a lookout for used transmissions that come up for sale and get a decent deal.
At the end of the day, a clutch and trans can last many seasons without major maintenance. A clutch if not set correctly can destroy parts, or slide and glaze the disc too. You can get hundreds of passes on a clutch when setup correctly before needing rebuilt too.
Unless the car came with a hydraulic TOB it has to be a mechanical linkage for the clutch. The linkage is just as critical in setup as setting the clutch for everything to work correctly and consistently. A common misnomer with stick cars is that we are always under the car making adjustments to the clutch. When it is dialed in only small adjustments are needed as the disc wears. Or a different track or weather requires more or less clutch. Either way, it takes longer to get the car in the air than it does to make these adjustments.
Sean