|
|
![]() |
#1 |
VIP Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Louisville , KY
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 68
Liked 279 Times in 68 Posts
|
![]()
Any of you that Plan to use a Dart shp block be aware there are no holes in the front of the block to allow the oil to drain back down to the pan. This is a real problem in a drag race car. I just finished getting my new motor out today and I am heading back to Parsons and Myers for them to disassemble the motor and put drain back holes in the front. The quality of the block seems excellent, I just don't know why Dart didn't do this to start with. Their little M block has them.
__________________
Greg Hill 4171 STK |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 5,115
Likes: 1,572
Liked 1,828 Times in 414 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
Greg, are you talking about those two big holes behind the timing cover? I've never put those in. The Dart blocks I've used have the returns like a big block, over the camshaft. I'm not sure those two behind the timing cover even do anything, except maybe after you start to slow down. I have not done one for Stock, but I have done some for regular bracket cars. I have not had oil return problems.
__________________
Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 1,632
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
We'll keep an eye on it and our fingers crossed. Danny Durham |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
So Greg did you seal the lifter valley and that's why you need the front holes?
Although not necessarily relevant, none of the Dart small blocks have the thermostat bypass drilled into the block, so you need to at least drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the thermostat unless you're just running a restrictor. (or nothing) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: usa
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
![]()
I'm guessing here but the problem is in the shutdown. Oil pumped to the lifter valley needs to get to the pan some way. On clean neutral systems u won't notice it but with some pans you will loose pressure quickly on decel with the motor still running. How that oil keeps the pick up covered on neg g forces still baffles me. I noticed this when belt drives first became popular as the belt drive cover blocks a little over half of the dr. side hole in the front of the lifter valley and on a big pan would drop pressure under decel. For years I lowered the front holes in factory blocks that Greg is talking about to allow any oil to leave the lifter valley on sbc's because stand offs in the valley were common to keep oil off the crank. I always tried to get any upper oil back to the pan as efficiently as possible by radiusing or lowering any return holes as I'm sure Alan does. Just to keep it off the crank. I know everyone says that the chev engines have great oiling systems from the factory and I agree but I have found some problems that needed to be addressed to make everything just right with different pans and driving practices. Greg, I slot new holes as low to the valley as possible on those blocks and probably bigger than needed. They seem to work better wider than taller.
Its a trick to make sure u have enough upper lubrication but only enough to make parts live. Some stuff works on some racecars but dosen't seem to effect others either way. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Houston,Texas
Posts: 819
Likes: 3,546
Liked 642 Times in 192 Posts
|
![]()
Greg,
Check out my link I have gotten some oil restrictors made for these blocks. Have them for sale on ebay here is the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/300703558232...84.m1555.l2649 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|