Stick or Automatic

[Rich67stang]

I have been thinking about putting a stick in my SS/modified car. What would be the +/- of stick/auto. I was looking @ Gforce or Proflite. any advise, thanks

[Mike Taylor 3601]

+ alot of fun,can make adjustments in bellhousing without sending conv. off to be worked on or change.
- I'm biased can't give any negatives
Mike Taylor3601

[NewHemi]

Adjustments on a stick setup aren't just possible, constant adjustments on a stick setup are needed.

Once you get an automatic set up right, you just check the fluid occasionally, and adjust the bands once every X number of runs..

But if HP ratings are of interest, they could be significantly different between auto and , so that might be a reason to do one or the other.

David
The New Hemi Guy

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by NewHemi

Adjustments on a stick setup aren't just possible, constant adjustments on a stick setup are needed.

Once you get an automatic set up right, you just check the fluid occasionally, and adjust the bands once every X number of runs..

But if HP ratings are of interest, they could be significantly different between auto and , so that might be a reason to do one or the other.

David
The New Hemi Guy

Maybe with a stocker. Not in SS if you are thrashing your combo to go faster, then you might have a few expensive converters laying around. If your combo is soft enough you don't have to do that until you finally get hit with enough hp to have to step it up. I have only tested three different converters this past year, I have friends with up to five converters. Change your SS combo then you start all over again.

[Jeff Lee]

When properly set up, a stick is MORE consistent than an automatic.
I have been through an entire weekend at a national event with qualifying, class run offs and final round of eliminations. The ET was 10.62 to 10.64 over 3 days. Automatics retain more heat and that heat affects the engine also. A/T's are more prone to ET fluctuations due to fluid temperatures.
Where a stick car will run into problems is with those that set up the launch with a bog. Bogs are not nearly as predictable in ET. Neither is letting the tires spin because you can't control a bog or spin to repeatable levels.
And once set up properly, a stick requires little maintenance to the clutch. The question is, is the racer willing to do it the right way or his way? The two are not always equal.

And Ed Wright is exactly right..Wright! Start thrashing on that DP car when you start loosing heads up races (and it will happen). You'll love R&R'ing that pile of $900-$1200 convertors you will acquire!

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

And Ed Wright is exactly right..Wright! Start thrashing on that DP car when you start loosing heads up races (and it will happen). You'll love R&R'ing that pile of $900-$1200 convertors you will acquire!

Not to mention the pink stained T shirts that go with it!
With todays modern low pressure clutches, I can change the static pressure of my clutch to hit harder or softer in less than 10 minutes, 5 if I have an assistant. With the window bellhousing, centrifugal can be changed in another 15 minutes. These minor changes can make a major differance in how the clutch responds. How fast can you change one of those $1000 + convertors in the pits?

[Ed Carpenter]

Originally Posted by NewHemi

Adjustments on a stick setup aren't just possible, constant adjustments on a stick setup are needed.

Once you get an automatic set up right, you just check the fluid occasionally, and adjust the bands once every X number of runs..

But if HP ratings are of interest, they could be significantly different between auto and , so that might be a reason to do one or the other.

David
The New Hemi Guy

That statement is just plain false. There is no constant adj on a stick car. Simply not true. Ask Brad Zaskowski. He's pretty damn good to. Check his stats. My 2 cents.

[69Cobra]

Stick car all the way!!!! You have the choice of todays low pressure clutches, a clutchless transmission and a super stock suspension. To me that is a no brainer. Also, like everybody else has said once you get it right your pretty much done. Especially with a ss car (big tires, 4 link etc...) You don't have to try and hook a 9" tire. Also with the counterweight that you will have you can adjust your rpm 2-400 up or down to adjust for conditions as well without have to make a clutch adjustment. But like Roy said you can make a base pressure adjustment in a mater of 5-10 min and a counterweight adjustment in just a few more than that. In my opinion, the key to making a sintered iron clutch work is how you seat it in, in the first 20 passes. If you seat the clutch in properly it will be your best friend. If you don't you will be chasing your tail and you will end up hating it. I would recommend that you have someone that is running a sintered iron clutch will success help you get started with seating it in. Once you have done that it will be ear to ear smiles all the time.

[Rich67stang]

Thank you everyone, I guess I was concerned about reaction times and maintenance with a stick, I am going to Gforce next friday to order a GF5R clutchless.

[NewHemi]

My experience with a stick setup goes back a lot of years, so what I am hearing here now is that they dont require adjustments...And that they are easier than automatics.

Good, then maybe we will put a stick in ours too. The HP factor is more appealing too...

And yes, I do have a nice collection of converters already.

David
The New Hemi Guy