1978 Mustang II

[Joe Toller]

Looking good! Are you looking for the trim piece right on top? There are a couple of those cars around my area, guys use them for demo derbies alot, so there should be trim pieces available...

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by Joe Toller

Looking good! Are you looking for the trim piece right on top? There are a couple of those cars around my area, guys use them for demo derbies alot, so there should be trim pieces available...

Joe,

Yep this piece right here. If I don't replace that, the vinyl roof will lift eventually. I remember seeing that all the time in the 70's. Guys would run the vinyl roofs and you'd see them lift going down the track. That's a lot of time. That thing would be a big air dam.

Since the car's a Ghia, I have to keep the roof. Also, it's tacky, like the interior, I kinda like that.

[Joe Toller]

I already have an email out to a friend of mine, I'm pretty sure he has a 77 with a bad V6 in his stash he might part out or derby.

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by Joe Toller

I already have an email out to a friend of mine, I'm pretty sure he has a 77 with a bad V6 in his stash he might part out or derby.

That'd be great if he has that piece. PM me, there's a couple other pieces I might be interested in, if he still has the car. Parts for these cars are hard to come by around here. There was a big Ford show over in Columbus, Ohio awhile back. I wasn't able to make it over there. There was supposed to be a guy with a lot of Mustang II pieces.

Did you ever get your converter ordered from Mark? I need to call him but since we're nowhere near ready to try the car. I haven't wanted to bother him. It doesn't look like any of us are going to get these cars up and running soon.

[Joe Toller]

I did, I just have to square up with him on the funds, and should be good to go. I probably drove him nuts with questions in the meantime lol. My project otherwise is close to completion...with a suprise...

[Robert Swartz]

Since I couldn't be at Class Nationals today. Just means I needed to be out in the garage (trying) to get something done on the car.

Started fitting the headers on the car. Headers on a Mustang II, suck! There's no other way to put it. I've used generous doses of Kroil on the manifold bolts this week. They came out without a problem. I really expected the bolts to be an issue. The passenger side will bolt up fairly easily. Just removed the motor mount bolt and raised the engine a couple inches. Header slid right up from the bottom.

Driver side is another issue. I have come to the conclusion that I need to remove the steering shaft. We tried every method we could imagine short of this, that header will not fit, yet. If I have time, I'll give it another go tomorrow. It's funny, there's plenty of room on this side. The passenger side is the tight one. Got to be that steering linkage.

We also got out our tach and gages. Not really good stuff but adequate for the moment. Found the gauge set at a swap meet in Indianapolis in March. Tod found the tach at a speed shop down south on their clearance shelf. Just need to figure out the spot for placement and fab up some brackets.

Also spoke with a buddy of mine today. He just happens to have a valve body for a C4. Another piece to help this project along.

[Mike Graham]

Robert you have a PM

[Robert Swartz]

So much fun working on old cars, LOL!!!!

Anyone have advice on how to "unfreeze" an old ancient intermediate steering shaft? I have all the bolts loose on the thing. It actually has a rag joint at the bottom of the steering shaft, so someone has replaced it at some point. I believe these had the plastic joint from the factory.

It would be easier to convert it to a manual R&P (which I plan to do, just not now). The header will eventually have to be removed from the car for one reason or another without removing engine. Have to move the shaft for now just to trial fit the header.

[goinbroke2]

Here in the rust belt...lots of PL-100 (penetrating oil works incredible), next step is acetylene torch, and a cheapy trick is take one booster cable below the joint and one above, turn on "boost" for about 2-3 seconds. I've used that to free up stuck park brake cables, etc.

If you got a torch though, that is the best, torch and BFH!

(I hate rust...and the rust belt)

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

Here in the rust belt...lots of PL-100 (penetrating oil works incredible), next step is acetylene torch, and a cheapy trick is take one booster cable below the joint and one above, turn on "boost" for about 2-3 seconds. I've used that to free up stuck park brake cables, etc.

If you got a torch though, that is the best, torch and BFH!

(I hate rust...and the rust belt)

Already got out the BFH. I was ready to put the torch to it. Problem resolved. I can put this in the "I'm a dumba%$ category". The shaft has been replaced. It's "supposed" to have an adjustment in the middle of the shaft. A buddy of mine kept telling me just pry on it and it will uncouple, LOL! After I had him look at it, he understood why our conversations were confused. So, now I fully understand how this one was put in place. They had to unbolt the R&P, put the shaft in place then bolt it down.

So, the manual rack may get put on sooner than I planned. Then I get to make a steering shaft! I'll make sure mine can be taken apart. It is so much fun working on old cars!!!!