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#531 |
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Not much around this area to choose from. Finding someone with PMS experience is even more rare...forums are all but dead when it comes to this product. Even with the PMS being relatively ancient technology I still should be able to get it to operate given the simple parameters this engine needs. I have the idle/start down...all I need now is WOT sorted out.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#532 |
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That is why I suggested talking to Ed although I really dont know how his ford exp.is. I really love this build and your persistence and determination . It seems you have enough engine to get the job done. Computer tuning is a skill in itself, a learning curve to say the least, but without a little helpful guidance sometimes we trip over our own feet.
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#533 |
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Well, another wasted trip to the track. There is definitely something wrong...the third alternator in a row quit working. I'm beginning to suspect something electrical is the root of all my problems now. No way you blow three alternators in a row and there not be something awry.
I'll have to dig up some schematics to find it. The original alternator harness is still intact and supposedly attached correctly to the solenoid. In my mind the solenoid connections just about have to be the problem...something has to be going to ground somewhere to blow all these alternators, don't you agree?
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#534 |
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Did some checking today and could find nothing obviously wrong with the wiring. I did remove the factory alternator wire from the solenoid...suddenly the one wire alternator is charging again. I don't know the why yet, but it is charging normally now.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#535 |
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Rich the power for the one wire alt.can come directly from the battery or where the positive cable connects to the solenoid . It doesnt need to come from switched power if thats how it was hooked up.If it stops charging again test the wire and make sure the wire to the alt has 12
+ volts to it. |
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#536 | |
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#537 |
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I finally nailed the alternator issue I had on my 68 with some creative wiring. I'm in NOLA right now and will post some photos Monday. Since this is mostly about EFI which I know zero about, I've been keeping out of this.
EDIT: if your alt is wired directly to your batt pos post or the batt side of your cutoff switch, it may be draining your battery overnight. That happened to me. With your batt cutoff in the OFF position, check voltage at the alternator batt terminal. If it reads zero or near that, your alt is properly isolated from the battery. If it reads voltage, especially 10 volts or more, it's draining your battery. All of the above is with the motor off and your battery at full charge.
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 Last edited by FireSale; 06-17-2015 at 12:40 PM. |
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#538 |
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Positive post cut-off switch is working properly. It's usually off when the car isnt being used or I have a charger hooked to it. Will keep an eye on it this weekend at the BG Hot Rod Reunion.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#539 |
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Rich did you ever get the ign. timing figured out?
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#540 |
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Good news is the alternator continues to charge as it should. Kenny was not allowed to race at BG this weekend due to the car being efi instead of a carburetor...he was however allowed to make passes in the Exhibition class. Only two runs were made due to inclimate weather, but the timeslip showed positive results in the right direction from some slight fuel table adjustments. I'll have to download the data from the last two runs to see if the timing is holding where it should be.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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