Single channel O2

[Michael Beard]

>> If you want to email me I can send you instruction for wiring it up.

E-mail sent!

>> Open collectors will give you bogus lean numbers at idle and very low speeds. (...) If you have a muffler that you can slip on the collector, or add an 18" or so extension, you will get accurate air/fuel data.

I might be able to steal the Borlas off the Dust Devil (my bracket car), or the old collectors with the Dynatech cone collector inserts may slip over the existing collector...

>> What are your RPM break points in your maps? I use 500 RPM.

300 in some spots, 600 in others. Trying to distribute things to where (I think) I need the most control over things, like around staging/launch rpm. Haven't done it yet, but I'm thinking it would make sense to narrow up the steps in the bottom 5-6 rows to better handle staging. Even in the burnout, I don't see more than 50% TPS. Wouldn't figure you'd need a lot of fine tuning control from 50-80%. Now, does it interpolate between the blocks, or is it a rigid cross reference chart?

I've been printing out my fuel maps so I have easy reference to past setups & trials. You'd think they'd have a print function. I've been doing a screen capture, dump it into MS Paint, and printing from there.

>> AlphaN cranks in the lower left Cel.

That makes sense. Wish it would say that implicitly somewhere in the manual. Yah, I had it at 25. I'll knock some out. Thanks!

Used to spend a lot of time back in the day playing with tuneups on cars in Burnout: Player's Choice Edition and the IHRA Drag Racing game. I enjoy this stuff. It just went a little quicker and easier when it was all on the computer!

[Ed Wright]

Hope I was able to help.

[Michael Beard]

Awesome, Ed, thanks! I just happened to have an unused toggle on my Painless panel that was already wired up for emergencies, just not connected to anything. Still had to tear the dash apart to figure out which wire and where it went since it's been years since we did it, but found it, and got everything set up properly and tested. Even flashed the ECU upgrade while I was at it.

Yep, already had a Dash #1 set up with just the necessary data points.

I'd made a bunch of changes to the fuel and spark maps this morning, and put it back in open loop. Starts better, sounds better at low rpms, and I leaned out the burnout areas of the map, which I'd had overly rich earlier. I'm very excited to have the internal data logger set up so that I don't have to get in trouble for being a dork and having the laptop bungied in the seat. ;-) Looking forward to doing some tuning. CalTracs are supposed to be here tomorrow, and should have them on the car for Richmond next week, then we can really get after it! :-)

[Bob Pagano]

Hay Mike, You hooked up with one of the best out here. Ed really knows his stuff. Looking forward to you getting after it !

[Michael Beard]

Question: Would your "proper" target A/F ratio possibly be different in ohrrendously different conditions? 4600' and a vapor pressure over .90 this weekend, and it seemed like it went lean when I tried to take enough fuel out of it to get the A/F close to where I had the car running decent at MIR.

Also, when I do get around to doing the "pit driving" tuning with some mufflers on the car, what kind of A/F do you look for in comparison to your WOT A/F? Still much leaner? Seems like the example programs have it up in the 15's at low rpms?

[Ed Wright]

Driving on the return road and pits should be 140.0-1 to 14.5-1 to keep the plugs clean. Leaner usually makes them run warmer. Mike is happy at 14.0-1. Decelleration, 15-1 is usually OK. You can see all kinds of crap on tuning message boards.
You just have to test in different air to find what air/fuel yous likes. Mine likes about the same all the time. I can't say what a Dodge with that manifold would like. Renting the track in different weather is helpful.
Good luck, Ed

[Michael Beard]

I take a boatload of fuel out of it yesterday at low rpm through launch rpm, and a little in the burnout area of the fuel map. Went a smidge too far right at launch rpm on the first run, but just a little tweak got it to leave cleanly again.

Going back over notes, I'm having to run this thing richer now than I did last month, just to get it to go down the track. If I take any fuel away from it, it quits making power (never pops like being too lean with a carb -- it just noses over.) A/F around 11-11.5 during most of the run, a couple spots in 2nd or 3rd gear where it gets into the low 12's, but now I've noticed a couple of rich spikes (10+, not prolonged, just at a singular point on the data log, one in 2nd gear, one in high gear... only did it the last couple runs)

Something I've noticed from day 1 is that the rpm doesn't come up smoothly, and it seems more pronounced now as time goes by. It'll have just an instant of a drop of as much as 300 rpm here and there... fluttering off and on. Shows up more in the data log than what you can feel in the car. This weekend, at least with the borrowed 4-hole spacer, even at idle it was moving around.... 1000rpm for a second or two, drop to 600 for a second or two, then back up, back down, etc.

Theory: bad injector? One or more injectors not working properly, causing the intermittent rpm surge, which has me richening up the whole system too much trying to compensate for poor or surging flow on just 1-2 cylinders, then being down on power when I try to lean it out?

We're going to try to do some kind of injector test tomorrow.