Roll Cages vs. Roll Bars in higher class cars

[danny waters sr]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

CM is the way to go. Lighter. Stronger. And CM doesn't rust!
My mistake when I built my CM roll bar for Stock class was not using a drivers side rocker bar. I thought the fact I had a CM bar everything would be fine. When I switched to SS class, I had the roll bar converted to a roll-cage. Still no rocker bar. In the end, somewhere along the way, the (slightly) rusty floor separated from the rocker, causing chassis problems. Now I'm building a complete back-half (CM) with 4-link. I may not have gone this route had the chassis remained true.

The rocker bar is required now, even on the 10.5 cars

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I have c/m cage in my pure stocker when I built it I was and still going to K/S.I went with cage because I figure cage will eventaully be required,and as others have said c/m cage weighs about same as mild roll bar.
Mike Taylor 3601

[69Cobra]

Thanks for the replies guys. One last question. Is it required to cut the top off the car to install a cage?

[Jeff Lee]

No you do not have to remove the roof. The top portions of the bar are tack welded in the car and the lower legs are dropped through the floor sections so you can get a 360 degree weld on all of the top portions. Afterwards the bar is raised and secured to the floors.

[Larry Curtis]

The only downside to runnig a cage is that it has to be certified every 3 years. A roll cage that is not NHRA certified is only good to 11.50 et, a roll bar with a un-modified floor pan is good to 10.00 et. I would still put a roll cage in. $0.02
Larry

[GTX JOHN]

My understanding is that the Cage only has to be certified if the car
is fast enough to REQUIRE it to have a cage.

My car has had Cage and been race continually for 18 years and show
No Flex of Body unlike a lot of my other cars. I believe that it further makes
the car stiffer and easier to tune chassis. We did remove Windshield to
Fab it and get everything to fit as close as possible.

[Phillip marvetz]

Originally Posted by Larry Curtis

The only downside to runnig a cage is that it has to be certified every 3 years. A roll cage that is not NHRA certified is only good to 11.50 et, a roll bar with a un-modified floor pan is good to 10.00 et. I would still put a roll cage in. $0.02
Larry

Are you sure about that? Makes no sense................

[rallye bob]

Originally Posted by Larry Curtis

The only downside to runnig a cage is that it has to be certified every 3 years. A roll cage that is not NHRA certified is only good to 11.50 et,
Larry

I also think this is incorrect..... No cert. required on a cage until a 9.99 et is attained...
I run a cage, no cert. @ 10.31 et....

[SCOTT SST2871]

Originally Posted by rallye bob

i also think this is incorrect..... No cert. Required on a cage until a 9.99 et is attained...
I run a cage, no cert. @ 10.31 et....

ditto

[69Cobra]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

No you do not have to remove the roof. The top portions of the bar are tack welded in the car and the lower legs are dropped through the floor sections so you can get a 360 degree weld on all of the top portions. Afterwards the bar is raised and secured to the floors.

Thanks Jeff, I thought you might be able to do it that way but wasn't 100% sure.