Compressor filter/dryer

Sean Marconette · 04-22-2013, 11:23 AM

I would suggest installing a blowdown on the bottom of the tank. It could be a timed 120 VAC solenoid, or as simple as a ball valve that you manually open. Moisture will kill the tank, as it will rust from the inside out. With the hot and humid air from the attic, fabricating a source of air to the compressor may also help. In the industrial and commercial HVAC world, with pneumatic controls, oil and water has to be reduced and eliminated. So for your tires and pneumatic tools, I would not spend the money on an air drier. Keep your pneumatic tools oiled, and eliminate condensed moisture in the tank.

I would pipe down from the attic, and install a tee. Out of the bottom of the tee, a 6" or longer nipple, and ball valve. This would be a blowdown to help separate any moisture. On the other opening of the tee, a regulator, and you are set. On the blowdown you can reduce the diameter to 1/4" copper and run it outside. Keep everything from the tank line size until the regulator. So if the tank fitting is 3/4", all piping should be 3/4" until the regulator. Reduce down at the regulator. This will not restrict the air volume.

Sean

FED 387 · 04-22-2013, 01:28 PM

not sure how much pressure you are going to have in the lines BUT do not use galvanized or black pipe ---they cannot handle lotsa pressurelike over 100 + PSI---they were not designed for that---they are for low pressure water and gas piping not air lines--- ya I know everyone uses it but it's not the SAFE way to do it

Sean Marconette · 04-22-2013, 06:29 PM

What black pipe are you refering too? Water pressure in schedule 40 pipe exceeds 150 PSI 24/7 365. In hospitals, industrial and high rise buildings, if the pumps are located in the lowest point in the building, they have to overcome the height of the building to get to the highest systems. So the lowest points would have the highest pressure. A 300 ft vertical pipe filled with water would have 129.9 PSI at the bottom while static. And more to push the water higher with a pump. We pipe pneumatic air lines, chilled water, hot water and steam for hospitals and industrial in black pipe since 1919. It depends on the application as to what schedule of pipe that is used.

What ever you do NO PVC, or CPVC PLASTIC.

Sean

FED 387 · 04-22-2013, 07:31 PM

SEAN--ditto on Plastic stuff--- I know guys that try to plumb their garages with black or galvanized plumbing/gas pipe and put in excess of 175-200 maybe more pounds thru it ---suicidal!!!!--- I'm no engineer but there are alternatives to do it safely--keyword here safely--- if you feel that galv/black pipe will safely work at the 125-150 pound range fine just don't get carried away with higher pressures--You seem to know so I respect that but some guys have a 60 gallon Sears oilless compresser and others have a big humongeous2 stage 5 HP 150 gallon Ingersall Rand industrial compresser--I tend to lean to the conservative side on things like this--FED387

Sean Marconette · 04-22-2013, 08:20 PM

FED 387 I was trying to post without sounding like a jerk, so hopefully it came across that way.

The velocity of the fluid also impacts how long the piping will last. For the given application and the amount of use, schedule 40 will live longer than most of us, unless it is made in China, and then it may not be worth a crap before it gets on the ship! Same way with fittings.

For the air compresser having less than a total of 60' of piping just a guess, keep any horizontal piping runs with a minimum grade so that any water will drain. Any vertical elevation change should have a dirt leg (scale pocket) and a drain valve. Ronnie by the time were done with our helpful hints, you could run the piping around your entire house!

Sean

Ronnie Smith Jr · 04-22-2013, 10:09 PM

^^lol on piping around the house.

Sean, I sent you a PM.

Thanks for the posts and recommendations.

Philip Saran · 05-10-2013, 05:50 PM

I have to ask, if you install your air compressor up in the attic how are you
going to drain the air/moisture out of the tank after each days use??

It may take a few years, but I have seen what happens to a air tank if not
drained on a regular basis, lots of pinholes in the tank, not repairable...

04-22-2013, 11:23 AM	#1
Sean Marconette Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 977 Likes: 799 Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer I would suggest installing a blowdown on the bottom of the tank. It could be a timed 120 VAC solenoid, or as simple as a ball valve that you manually open. Moisture will kill the tank, as it will rust from the inside out. With the hot and humid air from the attic, fabricating a source of air to the compressor may also help. In the industrial and commercial HVAC world, with pneumatic controls, oil and water has to be reduced and eliminated. So for your tires and pneumatic tools, I would not spend the money on an air drier. Keep your pneumatic tools oiled, and eliminate condensed moisture in the tank. I would pipe down from the attic, and install a tee. Out of the bottom of the tee, a 6" or longer nipple, and ball valve. This would be a blowdown to help separate any moisture. On the other opening of the tee, a regulator, and you are set. On the blowdown you can reduce the diameter to 1/4" copper and run it outside. Keep everything from the tank line size until the regulator. So if the tank fitting is 3/4", all piping should be 3/4" until the regulator. Reduce down at the regulator. This will not restrict the air volume. Sean __________________ Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N

04-22-2013, 01:28 PM	#2
FED 387 VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3,425 Likes: 550 Liked 334 Times in 181 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer not sure how much pressure you are going to have in the lines BUT do not use galvanized or black pipe ---they cannot handle lotsa pressurelike over 100 + PSI---they were not designed for that---they are for low pressure water and gas piping not air lines--- ya I know everyone uses it but it's not the SAFE way to do it

04-22-2013, 06:29 PM	#3
Sean Marconette Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 977 Likes: 799 Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer What black pipe are you refering too? Water pressure in schedule 40 pipe exceeds 150 PSI 24/7 365. In hospitals, industrial and high rise buildings, if the pumps are located in the lowest point in the building, they have to overcome the height of the building to get to the highest systems. So the lowest points would have the highest pressure. A 300 ft vertical pipe filled with water would have 129.9 PSI at the bottom while static. And more to push the water higher with a pump. We pipe pneumatic air lines, chilled water, hot water and steam for hospitals and industrial in black pipe since 1919. It depends on the application as to what schedule of pipe that is used. What ever you do NO PVC, or CPVC PLASTIC. Sean __________________ Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N Last edited by Sean Marconette; 04-22-2013 at 06:34 PM.

04-22-2013, 07:31 PM	#4
FED 387 VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3,425 Likes: 550 Liked 334 Times in 181 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer SEAN--ditto on Plastic stuff--- I know guys that try to plumb their garages with black or galvanized plumbing/gas pipe and put in excess of 175-200 maybe more pounds thru it ---suicidal!!!!--- I'm no engineer but there are alternatives to do it safely--keyword here safely--- if you feel that galv/black pipe will safely work at the 125-150 pound range fine just don't get carried away with higher pressures--You seem to know so I respect that but some guys have a 60 gallon Sears oilless compresser and others have a big humongeous2 stage 5 HP 150 gallon Ingersall Rand industrial compresser--I tend to lean to the conservative side on things like this--FED387

04-22-2013, 08:20 PM	#5
Sean Marconette Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 977 Likes: 799 Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer FED 387 I was trying to post without sounding like a jerk, so hopefully it came across that way. The velocity of the fluid also impacts how long the piping will last. For the given application and the amount of use, schedule 40 will live longer than most of us, unless it is made in China, and then it may not be worth a crap before it gets on the ship! Same way with fittings. For the air compresser having less than a total of 60' of piping just a guess, keep any horizontal piping runs with a minimum grade so that any water will drain. Any vertical elevation change should have a dirt leg (scale pocket) and a drain valve. Ronnie by the time were done with our helpful hints, you could run the piping around your entire house! Sean __________________ Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N

04-22-2013, 10:09 PM	#6
Ronnie Smith Jr Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Maryland Posts: 220 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer ^^lol on piping around the house. Sean, I sent you a PM. Thanks for the posts and recommendations.

05-10-2013, 05:50 PM	#7
Philip Saran Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Parker, CO. Posts: 728 Likes: 168 Liked 14 Times in 11 Posts	Re: Compressor filter/dryer I have to ask, if you install your air compressor up in the attic how are you going to drain the air/moisture out of the tank after each days use?? It may take a few years, but I have seen what happens to a air tank if not drained on a regular basis, lots of pinholes in the tank, not repairable... __________________ Phil Saran Parker, Colorado

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