Woodfin's SS GT/TB construction series

[Dragsinger]

Columbus Day brought good progress.

The wheels are hanging on the axle tubes, no axles, housing tubes are still oversize length. When finished there will be about 1" between side wall and frame.

This week Monte [Mr Sheet Metal] of Team Woodfin will help me lay out the preliminary cuts for rear tubs. Then the bed can go on for a full cut and tub design.

One hurdle ahead, how to modify the bed floor for rearward roll bar struts. Monte will have a plan soon.

Also note triangulated bars frame to four link brackets

[Dragsinger]

It's a funny thing about surface rust. The camera greatly exaggerates it, the tubing is much cleaner than the photos indicate. We do have times of high humidity in East Texas. That combined with handling produces a light surface rust.

When all welding and fitting is finished the back section will be sandblasted, primed, and painted.

And another look at forward frame bracing

[Dragsinger]

When looking a stock S -10 you might think traction will be a problem because of nose heavy.

However, in this view you see it is not much different from a car body. It has conventional "A arm" front with plenty of travel. The engine placement is good, 108" wheel base, so with the four link, quality shocks, and some properly placed ballast I expect it to perform well.

[Dragsinger]

So how do you cut a tube with an odd shape?

Wrap construction paper around the tube you intend to install. Tape well and cut the paper tube to fit the location. Slide paper tube over metal tube, mark with soap stone, cut to fit

Again, the camera is unkind about surface rust. That tube is much cleaner in person. The surface rust buffs off easily before welding.

[FireSale]

I had some crazy fittings to cut when I caged my Mustang like angles going into curved tubes in the halo. I found plastic pipe with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the tubing I used and cut it to fit by hand. Then I rolled up paper and slipped it into the plastic and traced the cut and wrapped it around the steel to transfer the pattern. I used a hole saw based tubing coper on most of the fittings and it worked out ok. I broke down to basic math and geometry and measured angles with a protractor and plastic tubing for mockups.

I also found a tubing coping calculator on-line that is in the link below. The idea is to find the angle of the intersection of the two sections of tubing and enter it along with their diameters (usually 1.625). It gives a curved line that you can download and print at 1:1 scale and cut out. Then wrap it around your tube and trace the pattern. It's weird but it works.

Link: http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

Dale

[Dragsinger]

Next week will be some exciting progress. The Super 10 will be rolled outside for more cleaning and sandblasting the new rear section.

In addition, the bed will be set on for a wheel tub fitting.

Turning our attention to the front half for a moment, the engine is almost ready. Just need a place to connect the plug wires.

[Dragsinger]

The new front motor plate does not line up. Looks like the holes are drilled wrong. plus it may interfere with the fenders.

It is OK because I have a saw