Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[Tony Corley]

ECT= Engine Coolant Temp. Connectors only plug one way on Ford harnesses. Hook up both o2 sensors and move the wideband to a new location. The 2nd diagram you made will work. Fuel from pump to rails, from rails to inlet on regulator, bypass from regulator to tank. Once you get fuel pressure to where you can adjust it, you can drop it a couple of pounds. Car should run fairly clean without the PMS if everything else is correct. As stated earlier, the factory ECM on a Fox Mustang is fairly adaptable on it's own. The PMS just allows for fine tuning and raising the rpm limit.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Tony Corley

ECT= Engine Coolant Temp. Connectors only plug one way on Ford harnesses. Hook up both o2 sensors and move the wideband to a new location. The 2nd diagram you made will work. Fuel from pump to rails, from rails to inlet on regulator, bypass from regulator to tank. Once you get fuel pressure to where you can adjust it, you can drop it a couple of pounds. Car should run fairly clean without the PMS if everything else is correct. As stated earlier, the factory ECM on a Fox Mustang is fairly adaptable on it's own. The PMS just allows for fine tuning and raising the rpm limit.

ECT - I assume that would require a sensor which is no longer on the engine lol. I'm betting it screwed into a port in the lower intake on the driver side...you saying I must have it for the engine to run properly? Is this the sensor here? Can it be installed in the intake instead of that tubing?





Not having both factory O2 sensors hooked up is causing problems I am experiencing? I guess my basic question now is what is the minimum amount of changes I can get away with right now. The PMS can control everything over 2000rpm...all I need is to get it to run/idle cleanly atm.

[west coast]

Rich looks like you created some of your own problems should be easy to fix with some time. I believe you o2 sensors are daisy chained together in the wiring so if one is not plugged in the other one will not work. Some of the years of cars are wired differently on this circuit. if you are missing the engine coolant sensor you will have problems, your after start enrichment table is like a choke will not change your fuel going to the motor as it warms up. Have not used the system you are working with just the stock computer with a chip. hope this helps. good luck

[black88coupe]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

ECT - I assume that would require a sensor which is no longer on the engine lol. I'm betting it screwed into a port in the lower intake on the driver side...you saying I must have it for the engine to run properly? Is this the sensor here? Can it be installed in the intake instead of that tubing?

That sensor in the pic is the coolant temp sensor for the computer. There is a second temp sensor that is for the gauge in the dash (normally goes in the drivers side front of the intake and has a small "stud" sticking out of the top for the gauge hookup). You can eliminate that coolant tube if you like and put the sensor right into the intake.

[Tony Corley]

Put the ECT sensor in the intake where the heater tube came out of. The o2 sensors are not causing the current issue by themselves, but will cause tons of other tuning issues.
So,
Reroute fuel
Add ECT sensor
Add o2 sensor


Should correct the issues, possibly have to lower fuel pressure a little, but maybe not, every engine is different.

[black88coupe]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

Not having both factory O2 sensors hooked up is causing problems I am experiencing?

You need both hooked up for the factory EEC. Not sure on the aftermarket setups.

[HandOverFist]

Ok guys - I will re-plumb the fuel system to mimic the second diagram, add the coolant sensor and install the other factory O2 sensor. If that corrects the current problem I'll add another bung for the wideband sensor. I will try to make some screenshots of the controller readings.

[partsbob67]

with the pms , you can tune and run it without 02s. I haven't had them in my car for 4-5 years.

[HandOverFist]

Somehow I got it starting/running smoothly atm. Extended the harness for the temp sensor and installed it directly in the lower intake. I can see it registering in the PMS controller now. Both factory O2 sensors installed, but I have yet to see any readings on the PMS screen. Not sure if the MAP sensor is functioning. I don't know how to tell if the IAC is fuctioning or not. 12 degrees locked in with the spout connector out, then plugged back in.

I'll have to order a fitting for the fuel rail before re-plumbing the system. Idles around 1350rpm and does not stall when shifted into gear. I will need to get a weld-on bung fitting so I can re-install the wideband O2.

While waiting for fittings I need to figure out why the new alternator has no output.

[Dave Noll]

While I'm not familiar with the screen output on that scanner, seen plenty others. Is that the IAT reading -30' ? Is it hooked up yet ? The first pic shows the engine @ 980RPM (i think), A heated O2 sensor (3 or 4 wire) should be showing voltage fairly quickly. 170' is more than enough time. Will that PMS let you lock out different inputs ?