Ford vs Chevy Build-up

HandOverFist · 04-30-2015, 11:26 AM

Ok guys - I will re-plumb the fuel system to mimic the second diagram, add the coolant sensor and install the other factory O2 sensor. If that corrects the current problem I'll add another bung for the wideband sensor. I will try to make some screenshots of the controller readings.

partsbob67 · 04-30-2015, 09:57 PM

with the pms , you can tune and run it without 02s. I haven't had them in my car for 4-5 years.

HandOverFist · 05-01-2015, 01:33 AM

Somehow I got it starting/running smoothly atm. Extended the harness for the temp sensor and installed it directly in the lower intake. I can see it registering in the PMS controller now. Both factory O2 sensors installed, but I have yet to see any readings on the PMS screen. Not sure if the MAP sensor is functioning. I don't know how to tell if the IAC is fuctioning or not. 12 degrees locked in with the spout connector out, then plugged back in.

I'll have to order a fitting for the fuel rail before re-plumbing the system. Idles around 1350rpm and does not stall when shifted into gear. I will need to get a weld-on bung fitting so I can re-install the wideband O2.

While waiting for fittings I need to figure out why the new alternator has no output.

Dave Noll · 05-01-2015, 03:24 AM

While I'm not familiar with the screen output on that scanner, seen plenty others. Is that the IAT reading -30' ? Is it hooked up yet ? The first pic shows the engine @ 980RPM (i think), A heated O2 sensor (3 or 4 wire) should be showing voltage fairly quickly. 170' is more than enough time. Will that PMS let you lock out different inputs ?

fordteacherguy · 05-01-2015, 08:27 AM

Yep,

I agree with Dave...Looks like Intake Air Temp is way off at -30 .....that will make it way rich. Usually default is -40 when they are unhooked but check for the open plug. IAT sensor looks like your coolant sensor except the end is not sealed with brass, it has a thermistor exposed to get air temp. Should be screwed into #5 intake port or you can move it into the intake upper plenum by using one of the plugs located on the underside of the intake. O2s are not used in the base calculations for fuel..they are more like trimmers when the system is warm and in closed loop so they are not players on initial starts. I'm curious about the -29HG ..is that the.baro reading? Usually that is just expressed as a positive #

Basics to get it running TP, ECT, IAT, BARO, Fuel Pressure, base timing. Looks like you are getting closer!

SSGT Mustang · 05-01-2015, 08:28 AM

Do the one-wire mod to the alternator. It's cheap to do, more reliable and safer. You will be able to diagnose any alternator problem very quickly.

HandOverFist · 05-01-2015, 11:26 AM

I'll have to buy a IAT sensor as I can't seem to locate the original. If the factory O2 sensors can in fact be deleted I'm all for that. If a one wire alternator will cure the no charge problem I'll gladly order one to get away from that aggravation quickly.

SSGT Mustang · 05-01-2015, 12:17 PM

Don't delete the O2's. You'd be in open loop (no feedback to the computer). You don't need that right now. You probably don't need that ever, but it's option later on when you become more familiar with tuning efi.

It's running smoother now because you have closed loop when you installed both O2's.

04-30-2015, 11:26 AM	#1
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up Ok guys - I will re-plumb the fuel system to mimic the second diagram, add the coolant sensor and install the other factory O2 sensor. If that corrects the current problem I'll add another bung for the wideband sensor. I will try to make some screenshots of the controller readings. __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

04-30-2015, 09:57 PM	#2
partsbob67 Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: rohnert park,ca Posts: 414 Likes: 11 Liked 79 Times in 11 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up with the pms , you can tune and run it without 02s. I haven't had them in my car for 4-5 years. __________________ bob beals 7244

05-01-2015, 01:33 AM	#3
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up Somehow I got it starting/running smoothly atm. Extended the harness for the temp sensor and installed it directly in the lower intake. I can see it registering in the PMS controller now. Both factory O2 sensors installed, but I have yet to see any readings on the PMS screen. Not sure if the MAP sensor is functioning. I don't know how to tell if the IAC is fuctioning or not. 12 degrees locked in with the spout connector out, then plugged back in. I'll have to order a fitting for the fuel rail before re-plumbing the system. Idles around 1350rpm and does not stall when shifted into gear. I will need to get a weld-on bung fitting so I can re-install the wideband O2. While waiting for fittings I need to figure out why the new alternator has no output. __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

05-01-2015, 03:24 AM	#4
Dave Noll Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Div. 6, Eastern, WA Posts: 710 Likes: 2,681 Liked 240 Times in 112 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up While I'm not familiar with the screen output on that scanner, seen plenty others. Is that the IAT reading -30' ? Is it hooked up yet ? The first pic shows the engine @ 980RPM (i think), A heated O2 sensor (3 or 4 wire) should be showing voltage fairly quickly. 170' is more than enough time. Will that PMS let you lock out different inputs ? __________________ Dave Noll, EF/S ,?/SA 6526

05-01-2015, 08:28 AM	#6
SSGT Mustang Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jersey Posts: 359 Likes: 35 Liked 204 Times in 54 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up Do the one-wire mod to the alternator. It's cheap to do, more reliable and safer. You will be able to diagnose any alternator problem very quickly.

05-01-2015, 08:27 AM	#5
fordteacherguy Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Federal Way, WA Posts: 238 Likes: 38 Liked 160 Times in 51 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up Yep, I agree with Dave...Looks like Intake Air Temp is way off at -30 .....that will make it way rich. Usually default is -40 when they are unhooked but check for the open plug. IAT sensor looks like your coolant sensor except the end is not sealed with brass, it has a thermistor exposed to get air temp. Should be screwed into #5 intake port or you can move it into the intake upper plenum by using one of the plugs located on the underside of the intake. O2s are not used in the base calculations for fuel..they are more like trimmers when the system is warm and in closed loop so they are not players on initial starts. I'm curious about the -29HG ..is that the.baro reading? Usually that is just expressed as a positive # Basics to get it running TP, ECT, IAT, BARO, Fuel Pressure, base timing. Looks like you are getting closer! Attached Thumbnails __________________ Brian Thompson NHRA Stock / Super Stock Class P/SA 6665 SS/MA 6665

05-01-2015, 11:26 AM	#7
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up I'll have to buy a IAT sensor as I can't seem to locate the original. If the factory O2 sensors can in fact be deleted I'm all for that. If a one wire alternator will cure the no charge problem I'll gladly order one to get away from that aggravation quickly. __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

05-01-2015, 12:17 PM	#8
SSGT Mustang Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jersey Posts: 359 Likes: 35 Liked 204 Times in 54 Posts	Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up Don't delete the O2's. You'd be in open loop (no feedback to the computer). You don't need that right now. You probably don't need that ever, but it's option later on when you become more familiar with tuning efi. It's running smoother now because you have closed loop when you installed both O2's.

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