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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 384
Likes: 101
Liked 419 Times in 85 Posts
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I'm not trying to be some stocker mentality type but with less than half the horsepower you need all the help you can to make it consistent. It can work with the short tire and in this scenario with no rear gear selection that may be the case. These engines are not forgiving and using every forgiving part you can make them much more consistent. If it's just laying down big numbers is all you're after, index wise that is, then the short tire may be better. It is a lot of fun to go rounds and beat 8-10 second stockers with these eccentric rides.
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 264
Likes: 42
Liked 61 Times in 25 Posts
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Alabama
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
Posts: 204
Likes: 269
Liked 171 Times in 51 Posts
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Got a little more stuff done this week.
Built a battery tray out of 1/8 aluminum in my welding class, put a little lip on it and some tabs to mount it to the body. Weighs a little more than the OE tray but it's much stronger. Turned out pretty good. I've been scraping undercoating and seam sealer out of the rear fenderwells for a couple days now. Nasty job at best. Using a Bernzomatic to soften it up, then scraping with a putty knife. After I get most of it off I go over it with a stainless steel wire brush on my angle grinder. I think the issue with the rear tire clearance will be resolved once I get the fenderwell lips folded up and add at least one inch clearance at the front and back of the wheel wells, as per the rule book you can go up to 2 inches. Finally got the rear brake lines installed. I followed the old rear brake line which routes through the firewall of the passenger side of the car, down along the door sill then across to the driver’s side under the rear seat and exiting to the rear axle. I'm not sure I like the new (new to me anyway) brake lines made out of copper/nickel. It's easy to bend but it looks like it may be easy to dent and therefore pinch off. |
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#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Aylmer Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 31
Liked 69 Times in 30 Posts
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Eastwood makes a great tool to fold the inner rear fender lip, you could make the tool in your welding class.lol Nice project keep it up.CR
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#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lakewood Washington
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 29
Liked 237 Times in 126 Posts
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The guy I bought my Mustang off of had covered the floorboards with that stick-on foil sound deadener. I spent several days cooped up in my coupe with a torch and putty scraper, so I feel for you. Smelly, dirty stuff. And the metal under the passenger side was so rusted I had to cut it out and replace it.
Nice welding and fabrication. Glad to see someone tackling all aspects of race car conversion themselves. I don't know what your paint plans are, but since I was going to strip and paint my car I used a torch and body hammer to roll my fender lips. That Eastwood tool is nice, but I already had the torch and hammer. Worked out OK. And don't believe those YouTube guys who say you can do it with a baseball bat... Dale
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
Posts: 204
Likes: 269
Liked 171 Times in 51 Posts
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I don't know what your paint plans are, but since I was going to strip and paint my car I used a torch and body hammer to roll my fender lips. That Eastwood tool is nice, but I already had the torch and hammer. Worked out OK. And don't believe those YouTube guys who say you can do it with a baseball bat...
Dale[/QUOTE] Baseball bats on wheel wells are for the circle track crowd, in my opinion. I discussed this with my body guy yesterday, he is going to split the lip on the inside and fold it in. Should be about 1/4 to 3/8 thick when done. Car is going to body and paint Wednesday. Front fenders, trunck lid, hood and bumpers are already done. They look great. I found a one in a million with this guy. He works out of a single car garage, charges $20.00 an hour for body work and $35.00 for painting. I bought all the materials so he doesn't make any money on that. Is reasonably fast, gives me a bill every Thusday for work done the previous week. I inspect the work, if im not happy I don't pay until its corrected. No money up front. I'm pretty happy so far. |
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