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Old 12-09-2016, 11:54 AM   #1
cmracing
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

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Originally Posted by Bob Mulry View Post
Hi,

I don't see a performance improvement with solid flat tappet lifters to replace hydraulic flat tappet lifters.............

A solid lifter would still have to modified to work with the spring pressures that a run now.....

The ramps are so fast that they almost hit the edge of the lifter now.....

If you ran tool steel, shoeboxes or whatever hydraulic lifters you would still need the same type of treatment or design to make it live......

The main advantages that I can see are a lower price for solids over hydraulics and if you wished, an EDM hole could be used for addition oil supply....

That said.............

How about allowing the front battery in stock to be relocated to the trunk so that you haven't a hot battery lead that is 12' long going from the battery disconnect to the front battery. Even with the disconnect off the 12' long battery cable that is capable of carrying more than 500 amps straight to ground if the cable is damaged is hot...If something bad happened and the fuel system were damaged and leaking the battery and cable are still in the engine compartment and hot..........

Just my thoughts because it would make the cars safer, easier to wire and lighter....

Thanks,
Bob
I wire a car the "correct" way so there is no "hot wire" from front to back when the switch is off in the back with a front-mounted battery also. PITA, a lot of extra time and $$$, but it is legal, it works, and kills the engine when the switch is pushed in.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:05 PM   #2
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

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Originally Posted by cmracing View Post
I wire a car the "correct" way so there is no "hot wire" from front to back when the switch is off in the back with a front-mounted battery also. PITA, a lot of extra time and $$$, but it is legal, it works, and kills the engine when the switch is pushed in.
I agree ^^
All my cars with rear mounted batteries are wired this way. That big fat welding cable running up the side of car is only hot when the starter is kicking over.

Years ago I wired a rear mounted battery the way NHRA shows and that fat wire shorted out and caught on fire. Bad idea.

Ever since then I have wired it this way in the diagram... the correct and safest way...( note that the switch still kills every functioning item on the car when switched off )

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Old 12-09-2016, 01:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

Looking at this diagram it's the way I have wired mine. But it still has a constant hot wire running to the alternator. Could you run this wire to the main switch and then to the battery ?? And if so how big of a switch (amp wise) should we use?
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:26 PM   #4
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

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Looking at this diagram it's the way I have wired mine. But it still has a constant hot wire running to the alternator. Could you run this wire to the main switch and then to the battery ?? And if so how big of a switch (amp wise) should we use?
Only if you run it to the source side of the switch.

If you kill the main switch, you kill engine power.
You kill engine power, you kill the alt.

If I wire the alt. to the switched side of the main ( that feeds the fuse box), the engine will still run if the main disconnect is off because the alt. is still feeding 12v to the fuse box while the engine is still running.


Thus the location of the alt. wire on the source side of the main switch, not the fuse box side.


edit: Sorry Jeff if I de-railed your thread
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Last edited by ALMACK; 12-09-2016 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:59 PM   #5
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

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Originally Posted by ALMACK View Post
Only if you run it to the source side of the switch.

If you kill the main switch, you kill engine power.
You kill engine power, you kill the alt.

If I wire the alt. to the switched side of the main ( that feeds the fuse box), the engine will still run if the main disconnect is off because the alt. is still feeding 12v to the fuse box while the engine is still running.


Thus the location of the alt. wire on the source side of the main switch, not the fuse box side.


edit: Sorry Jeff if I de-railed your thread
I might be looking at the diagram wrong but it looks like the battery is not killed by the switch, hot wire still on post along with the ground??
The alt and big red wire to sol. would have to be on the other side of main switch to completely shut off current from the bat, pourpse of main disconnect. That alt wire is still hot according to that drawing.

Last edited by Coleydog; 12-09-2016 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:40 PM   #6
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

I've been trying to figure out for years why NHRA requires the master switch to be on the positive cable. It should be on the negative cable. It would be much safer and easier. No battery ground and everything will be killed. Somebody please explain to me why I'm wrong.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:53 PM   #7
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Default Re: Lifter rule in Stock

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Originally Posted by Darrel Goheen View Post
I've been trying to figure out for years why NHRA requires the master switch to be on the positive cable. It should be on the negative cable. It would be much safer and easier. No battery ground and everything will be killed. Somebody please explain to me why I'm wrong.
Hi
If there is an accident and the positive and negative crushed would still have a short and you have not addressed the issue of protecting both the front and rear batteries............
If wanted you could control the front battery with a constant duty rely.......
Sorry I hijacked thisthread....

Bob
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