H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[Wayne Kerr]

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan

Just a little info for everyone, seems a lot of people are running the PAC 1409X springs on their stockers. I had some issues finding an ID locator spring cup that would work because well, they didn't make one. Ended up having to make some for this particular head. When I questioned PAC, although they didn't recommend it, they said most were more than likely just throwing the 1409Xs in the head without a cup. Now fast forward to having my break in rockers not work, I needed a solution for a light spring for break-in. I ran across a direct drop in that works perfectly with the cup and the retainer from the 1409X... they're factory beehive Dodge Viper springs that will show about 85lbs at 1.800 (closed). Hope this helps someone in the future.

Have you considered making power runs with the "Viper" springs? I wouldn't be surprised if they are pretty good for your combination.

See you at the races,
Wayne Kerr

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Wayne Kerr

Have you considered making power runs with the "Viper" springs? I wouldn't be surprised if they are pretty good for your combination.

See you at the races,
Wayne Kerr

I haven't, just seems these lobes might be hard to control with little spring pressure.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Gonna have a few days of slow rolling here (other stuff to do) so not much will be done. Today, got pretty much everything buttoned up, balancer, bolted the vc spacers on, filled it with oil and pre-lubed it, threw the valve covers on plus the distributor and wires at it. Gonna try to be back on it Saturday.

[Dissident]

Todd,
You might find that if you have the operator set the "inertia factor" to about 0.6 to 0.7 it might be easier to compare numbers to those that have other dynos such as SuperFlow models. Might be interesting for you to ask what they normally use.



The dyno owners have that option even if they have SF electronics installed (but it doesn't look like it in the photos).


Always fun to see your work tested on a dyno. Makes it more fun when you put the engine in the car for runs down the track.


Good Luck to you and Autumn.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Dissident

Todd,
You might find that if you have the operator set the "inertia factor" to about 0.6 to 0.7 it might be easier to compare numbers to those that have other dynos such as SuperFlow models. Might be interesting for you to ask what they normally use.



The dyno owners have that option even if they have SF electronics installed (but it doesn't look like it in the photos).


Always fun to see your work tested on a dyno. Makes it more fun when you put the engine in the car for runs down the track.


Good Luck to you and Autumn.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

Pretty excited to get to tuning, I have some experience as a dyno operator (I used to own a chassis dyno) and I try not to get to caught up in the numbers game, I just want to see gains and losses via tuning and hopefully the cars performance will reflect.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Got in a little work today, heat cycling piston coating, breaking in cam, re-checking everything under the valve covers etc. Back at it for a few hours tomorrow.

[Dissident]

Todd,
Seeing the type of dyno equipment you are testing on makes a suggestion possible.............Dyno tach will be accurate SO,

You can take the tachometer off the car and test it against the dyno instrumentation. That will give you some data that is worthwhile on the track. Even the best electronic tachometers are +/- 5% full scale devices. Do the math on whatever the full scale value is.....can make quite a difference on the track.
Not many folks know that little fact and they assume the high dollar tach they bought is spot on....don't guess, test.



Have a great time testing!


Regards,
HB2
Dissident