H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Dissident

Todd and Autumn,


Knowing this engine experience has been painful and expensive for you folks. Stout hearts and you can overcome this.


You made commented that everything checked out as OK and I assume within specs. Since the oil filter flow capacity has been addressed, how about this little detail to consider. What are the bearing clearances vs the SAE wt of the oil you have been using? Some folks swear by the water type viscosity oils, but if the clearance is large, they can't maintain an adequate hydrodynamic wedge and will skin the bearings up every time.



Hope it proves to be something simple like described above and that you can solve it and get to dyno time and racing soon.



Best of Luck to you both.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

I am going to a higher weight oil this time around.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

FINALLY! I had a day I could get away from work so we finally saw some forward progress. Checking clearances, got the adjustable guide plates welded (I'll get a pic tomorrow) and made a puck to install cam bearings. I should be able to work all weekend so I'll be back with updates.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

As promised welded guide plate pics. Spent the day frustrated, all we had to do was check the mains and start assembly. #3 main seemed weird in that the cap didn't snap in the block, I could push it in real easy, wasn't like that before, and the bearing was .0005-.0007 tighter than the rest. Pulled the bearing, re-torqued and the bore read .0005 tighter than when it was align honed. I replaced all the new bearings with the old set of King's I kept and although they seemed to check more consistent betwen all of them, #3 was still screwed and for some reason everytime I torqued the mains it comes back with a different measurement. Engine pic is of it being checked with the King bearings. The camels back... it's broken!

[Glenn Hayes]

Todd,
I'm so sorry to read of all the issues this engine is producing, you are a trooper. Where does one go as of now?

Wishing you all the best,
Glenn

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Glenn Hayes

Todd,
I'm so sorry to read of all the issues this engine is producing, you are a trooper. Where does one go as of now?

Wishing you all the best,
Glenn

I think I found 2 good blocks local to me, I'll pick them up Monday and order a new crank to get started.

[Rich Biebel]

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

That's probably not going to be easy to find nor does it insure its a real good block cylinder wall thickness-wise.....and it still needs a lot of prep work

I know its expensive but a Bowtie or an aftermarket, legal block is a far better choice....

[Glenn Briglio]

Check out the Dart shp block.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

That's probably not going to be easy to find nor does it insure its a real good block cylinder wall thickness-wise.....and it still needs a lot of prep work

I know its expensive but a Bowtie or an aftermarket, legal block is a far better choice....

The two blocks I have access to are NOT nodular caps, just grey iron. Since were looking at less than 400hp I'm not worried. I want two engines so I need a cheap one to run then I'll buy a good block and internals for a nice one.

[Tim H]

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

Not trying to go off topic however since so many knowledgeable / helpful people have responded to this thread, how does one identify a production 4 bolt block w/ nodular caps ?