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#1 |
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I would bypass around the delay box and any other electronic devices you have between the button and the solenoid and test that to see if it works properly with the electronics out of the system. If it still does the same thing then it can only be the button, solenoid, voltage or ground.
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Canyon, Tx
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If it has an aluminum valve body that is one more thing to check. I have had somewhat the same thing happen on a customers aluminum valve body when it goes from cold to hot and the pump pressure is also low. If it is a old GM stock pump that would be my first thing to change to an aftermarket pump. The aftermarket pumps with the bigger gear set puts out more volume and pressure that the valve body regulates. I am just not a fan of the aluminum valve bodies. Just My Take Rick Cates Canyon, TX Last edited by 63corvette; 09-21-2020 at 02:20 PM. |
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#3 |
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Band needs tightened on transmission
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#4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Hey Guys,
I finally took the car out again. I put a volt meter on the supply to the delay box it would read around 13.3Volts at idle, @ 3000 rpms when the alternator no longer charges it would drop to 12-12.2. Did the same test on the output to the transbrake, steady 13 volts out, then @ 3000rpms voltage would decrease to zero over about a half second!!!! Not sure if it was the meter itself that was lagging and it was actually dropping to zero right away but swapped boxes and went 11 rounds over the weekend without a hiccup. Even won the super street gamblers at Great Bend. Took for granted the electronics not being the issue.... Thanks and hopefully this thread saves someone the headache I had. |
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#5 |
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I don’t understand something you said. That the alternator doesn’t charge after 3000rpm???????
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KEITH MAYERS 2-1/2 X somebody Still many X nobody |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Keith, sorry charging is not the correct word. But at 3000rpms and beyond with the small 40 amp alternator the demand is more than the supply thus we see a voltage drop.
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