U/SA 302 ffffford build

[goinbroke2]

One step ahead, numerous back.....

I was building my bracket car to get it back on the track after 25+ years and did most of the work, then decided to build it into a stocker.

So, fuel system is complete and working now, but now for a stocker I have to pull the gas tank and install a fuel cell so it will be easier to swap from high test to race fuel when required. Also have to install a bleeder port for the fuel testing. Also, at one time I ran 2 4bbls and although one port is blocked off, I will have to move the fuel lines on the fender well.

Dual batteries and master switch all done, ready to go...but a stocker needs a battery in the front so I'll need to find a battery tray and configure the master to work with a batt in front and a batt in the rear (or just say heck with it and run one batt??)

With the rule on flex plates, I'll have to get one and install it. (didn't need as a bracket car)

On and on it goes and with all the snow and me being plow operator/tech, been hard to get back on the mustang when I'm working on snow equipment as well as the wife's off road truck.

And the whole "posting on the internet instead of being in the garage working because it's so cold out" is having a negative effect as well! LOL!!

[Billy Nees]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

(or just say heck with it and run one batt??)

Unless you need the weight. One is quick and easy.

[goinbroke2]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

Unless you need the weight. One is quick and easy.

Yeah it's just my paranoia from years gone by. Hit the key for the next round and click. Or sitting in lanes during a shut down and forget to turn stuff off, etc.

Sure sounds like I could fix the issue by paying attention, LOL!

[goinbroke2]

Going over the rule book again, double checking… interior, unless you’re running a roll bar, must have front and rear seats… crap. So now I need a passenger AND a rear seat. And since I’m pulling the batts out of the rear, I don’t need my aluminum rear firewall.

How can I be falling farther behind, the more I do?? Lol!

Going to look at a scrapped mustang tomorrow for the batt tray and possibly seats.

[goinbroke2]

Just ordered a new factory tray, scrap yards have nothing around here.

1979-86 MUSTANG BATTERY TRAY KIT by Daniel Carpenter Reproductions

Item #LRS-10732BK

This battery tray kit includes everything you need to safely secure your 1979-1986 Mustang battery.
Daniel Carpenter Reproductions

Going with single batt up front and pulling the two bus batteries from the rear. Found rear seat in red so I'll use that, just need a red front passenger seat now. (among a thousand other things, lol)

(again, spending a lot to go really slow, LOL!!)

[goinbroke2]

Another piece of the puzzle, new batt box.

[goinbroke2]

Wife is heavy into off roading with her bronco....now I know why she never said anything when my parts came in, 3hr's later, her traction mats showed up!! Always has to out do me, LOL!

[MAURICE BLENDHEIM]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

One step ahead, numerous back.....

I was building my bracket car to get it back on the track after 25+ years and did most of the work, then decided to build it into a stocker.

So, fuel system is complete and working now, but now for a stocker I have to pull the gas tank and install a fuel cell so it will be easier to swap from high test to race fuel when required. Also have to install a bleeder port for the fuel testing. Also, at one time I ran 2 4bbls and although one port is blocked off, I will have to move the fuel lines on the fender well.

Dual batteries and master switch all done, ready to go...but a stocker needs a battery in the front so I'll need to find a battery tray and configure the master to work with a batt in front and a batt in the rear (or just say heck with it and run one batt??)

With the rule on flex plates, I'll have to get one and install it. (didn't need as a bracket car)

On and on it goes and with all the snow and me being plow operator/tech, been hard to get back on the mustang when I'm working on snow equipment as well as the wife's off road truck.

And the whole "posting on the internet instead of being in the garage working because it's so cold out" is having a negative effect as well! LOL!!

Broke... I heard you NS guys got almost 5' of snow in a day and a half. Your going to need a snowblower with Cobra-Jet Power to move that mess. MB

[goinbroke2]

And to make it worse, my hottub pump seized up as the storm hit so I was draining water and pulling the pump in the storm, lol. Just got it back together last night. It's back up to 80 so far.

"fun times in the maritimes" lol!

[Cglrcng]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

One step ahead, numerous back.....

I was building my bracket car to get it back on the track after 25+ years and did most of the work, then decided to build it into a stocker.

So, fuel system is complete and working now, but now for a stocker I have to pull the gas tank and install a fuel cell so it will be easier to swap from high test to race fuel when required. Also have to install a bleeder port for the fuel testing. Also, at one time I ran 2 4bbls and although one port is blocked off, I will have to move the fuel lines on the fender well.

Dual batteries and master switch all done, ready to go...but a stocker needs a battery in the front so I'll need to find a battery tray and configure the master to work with a batt in front and a batt in the rear (or just say heck with it and run one batt??)

With the rule on flex plates, I'll have to get one and install it. (didn't need as a bracket car)

On and on it goes and with all the snow and me being plow operator/tech, been hard to get back on the mustang when I'm working on snow equipment as well as the wife's off road truck.

And the whole "posting on the internet instead of being in the garage working because it's so cold out" is having a negative effect as well! LOL!!

I will caution you that switching your fuel system from pump gasto race gas and back (and actually passing a fuel ck is not as easy as it seems, but you can do it if properly prepared. It is a real big pain to do, and at today's prices it is an expensive waste of good race gas.

In 1994 I tried w/ the stock gas tank, my system is single point injector EFI, fuel ran from in tank pump w/sock, to TBI hat, to injector top inlet screen/pinter, then to attached regulator, then a quarter inch return line to the tank.

By disconnecting up front lines from Throttle Body, creating and inserting a "temp U-Line connection, plugging into the diag. Port for the ECM to add a switch to temp override the ECM 10 sec key on prime feature for the fuel pump I could both take samples, and could also just circulate the fuel through the system, or drain the tank/lines
completely from under hood area.

1994 First Divisional race of the year, drive in on pump gas, drained the tank and lines completely of the pump gas I drove the car in on then added 2-3 gals of VP C-12 race gas and went for pre-race fuel ck....And failed the ck, oxygenation additives put the ck out of whack (to this day, and I drove the car all over the country in 1995. Then 96, and 97, to many, many events on pump gas, after properly being shown how to wash the system to remove the oxygenation additives, the only fuel ck I ever failed was that 1st 1).

A great NHRA Div. 7 man taught me how. Drain the tank and lines fully. Then get a single gallon or 2 of red diesel, add the diesel to the tank or cell, bounce the rear of the car to splash that as high on tank or cell sides as you can, then you need to cycle flush all your lines for 10-20 mins circulating the red diesel through the lines to wash them, and do not allow the diesel to enter carbs, throttle bodies, etc.

Drain the tank and lines again fully, then add 2 gals of race gas to the tank and wash 10 mins again (circulating that new race gas to wash the system of diesel, and drain again...save the diesel and that now dirty race gas, both can be used for future washes).

Now add 2 gals of clean new race gas, rehook the system back up, check for leaks, and head for a fuel pre-ck. You will have burned up an hr. to an hr/1/2 of time, and will pass the ck....after the event I simply drained and sold the race
gas left, or carried it on to next event.

Add back the orig. Pump gas and fire it up. (But, once you do, the wash of the system will be necessary again).

I drove track to track all over in 1995 doing that, a huge pain in the rear, but it is doable. But, since my engine rebuild, adding a 5 gal. Cell, removing the tank, pump gas has not been introduced to the system period as race gas is no longer $7.00 a gal., and diesel is getting nowhere near those new Ross pistons or Sealed Pro ringsets.

If it has pump gas in it now, my suggestion is do the first wash at home, then add race gas, then get a pre-ck before your 1st Q1 round (with plenty of time to wash it again if necessary, and come pre-prepared!) Also bring a fresh set of plugs pre-gapped to throw in it.

Good luck brother.