Stick Dime Rockets - Page 2

D.Johns · 11-02-2014, 01:28 PM

A car in the shop uses a Liberty prepped T-5 that has the synchronizers removed and dog ringed. Car has went 9s at 3200#. They changed the rules for the class to allow the G-force 101a in so everybody is unloading the T-5s for those. Could pick one of those up cheap used.

jcw31 · 11-02-2014, 03:45 PM

Please school me on this. lets say a 3400 lb car 4.88 rear liberty4spd {autogear case,proshifted} older trans 2.52 low approx.500
tq. Assuming clutch grabs with release of pedal [like a converter locking up at stall speed] Assuming a somewhat inexperienced stick driver[drag racing] using an inexpensive clutch . Whats the best scenario feathering the pedal or spinning the slicks [no dead hook]? Also do you feel this old liberty is up to the task and would you prefer a fiber disc vs. sintered metal one as far as controlled slippage goes. As in old school before there was adjustable clutches.

thanks Joe

D.Johns · 11-02-2014, 04:24 PM

In Scott's car with the liberty T-5 class required a diaphram style clutch. Used a solid hub, no marcel springs and made to a certain thickness as well as a pressure plate made for a certain amount of force to be applied. Would shim the pressure plate until we received the slippage that we wanted based on the torque gauge that he made and calculated force he wanted to apply. Car is a NA modular 4.6 which means low torque but good HP. Car weighs 3200+ with 5.13 rear gears on a 26*10.5 launch at 7k+

It was hard to get that car to go through the clutch without puckering up the disc after 2-3 passes. Not enough slippage and it would pull the engine RPM down. On a small tire car it's easy to get up on the wheel speed. There were others in the class that the best we can figure is using a sintered iron disc instead because they were able to slip the clutch way more then us without spitting out clutch discs every pass.

IMO sintered iron and slipping the clutch in a controlled fashion(ie not the drivers foot) to control the RPM, tire strike and wheel speed is the only way to go in a serious stick car. However on the budget that may not be an option. Then it will be a controlled spin with the tire and let the engine do the work with a broad trq/power curve.

james schaechter · 11-02-2014, 08:21 PM

Not a dime, maybe a quarter, but the neon turbo could run under the index with no mods and run very well with some better tires wheels and ecm from mopar. Not sure what years they were made, but I bet some used ones are still roaming around. They were all stick shifts

11-02-2014, 01:28 PM	#11
D.Johns Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Indiana Posts: 437 Likes: 15 Liked 17 Times in 6 Posts	Re: Stick Dime Rockets A car in the shop uses a Liberty prepped T-5 that has the synchronizers removed and dog ringed. Car has went 9s at 3200#. They changed the rules for the class to allow the G-force 101a in so everybody is unloading the T-5s for those. Could pick one of those up cheap used. __________________ 2014 Cobra Jet FS/XX #3345 STK/SS Like us on http://www.facebook.com/pages/Daniel...25886327426822

11-02-2014, 03:45 PM	#12
jcw31 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 87 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Re: Stick Dime Rockets Please school me on this. lets say a 3400 lb car 4.88 rear liberty4spd {autogear case,proshifted} older trans 2.52 low approx.500 tq. Assuming clutch grabs with release of pedal [like a converter locking up at stall speed] Assuming a somewhat inexperienced stick driver[drag racing] using an inexpensive clutch . Whats the best scenario feathering the pedal or spinning the slicks [no dead hook]? Also do you feel this old liberty is up to the task and would you prefer a fiber disc vs. sintered metal one as far as controlled slippage goes. As in old school before there was adjustable clutches. thanks Joe

11-02-2014, 04:24 PM	#13
D.Johns Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Indiana Posts: 437 Likes: 15 Liked 17 Times in 6 Posts	Re: Stick Dime Rockets In Scott's car with the liberty T-5 class required a diaphram style clutch. Used a solid hub, no marcel springs and made to a certain thickness as well as a pressure plate made for a certain amount of force to be applied. Would shim the pressure plate until we received the slippage that we wanted based on the torque gauge that he made and calculated force he wanted to apply. Car is a NA modular 4.6 which means low torque but good HP. Car weighs 3200+ with 5.13 rear gears on a 2610.5 launch at 7k+ It was hard to get that car to go through the clutch without puckering up the disc after 2-3 passes. Not enough slippage and it would pull the engine RPM down. On a small tire car it's easy to get up on the wheel speed. There were others in the class that the best we can figure is using a sintered iron disc instead because they were able to slip the clutch way more then us without spitting out clutch discs every pass. IMO sintered iron and slipping the clutch in a controlled fashion(ie not the drivers foot) to control the RPM, tire strike and wheel speed is the only way to go in a serious stick car. However on the budget that may not be an option. Then it will be a controlled spin with the tire and let the engine do the work with a broad trq/power curve. __________________ 2014 Cobra Jet FS/XX #3345 STK/SS Like us on http://www.facebook.com/pages/Daniel...25886327426822 Last edited by D.Johns; 11-02-2014 at 04:28 PM.*

11-02-2014, 08:21 PM	#14
james schaechter VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Cumming GA Posts: 1,933 Likes: 1,103 Liked 1,235 Times in 252 Posts	Re: Stick Dime Rockets Not a dime, maybe a quarter, but the neon turbo could run under the index with no mods and run very well with some better tires wheels and ecm from mopar. Not sure what years they were made, but I bet some used ones are still roaming around. They were all stick shifts __________________ James Schaechter 3163 STK