Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by fordteacherguy

Rich,

You'll appreciate having those slip tubes on the passenger side and cutting those flanges if some time later you have to pull just the starter or trans and you want to leave the motor in the car.

From the looks of it right now Brian it appears I could do both without touching the engine...I'll let you know how it goes. Convertor will be here tm. Those O2 sensor bungs turned inwards are a little wacky...will see how that works out.

[HandOverFist]

You guys were correct about the header interference. Got the car up on the lift this morning and it was apparent the trans will not go in with the headers attached. Loosely bolted maybe...we will see.

[HandOverFist]

With the Camaro back together I got to spend some time on the Mustang this afternoon. Installing the transmission required removing the header bolts on the driver-side and header left in place. The passenger-side was removed completely. Trans went up easily enough, but it was soon apparent the AOD bellhousing bolts were too long for use with the C4...cut-off wheel made quick work of shortening the six bolts.

I had a purpose built crossmember for C4 in a Foxbody install, but there was no way it was going to bolt up easily. Even with all the adjustment leeway the mounting pad was still going to require major gouging to get it to bolt to the tailshaft. It was at this point I realized this particular crossmember was designed to bolt solidly to the tailshaft without any rubber/poly mount at all...not going there.

Took the factory crossmember and cut the four tack welds loose on the cups then slid the main body forward on the cups...essentially all the way forward instead of the factory rearward position. Installed a poly mount on the tailshaft and the modified factory crossmember bolted right up like it was intended.

Driveshaft length looks good as is. No way to access the flexplate teeth to utilize my turning wrench so I will have to unbolt the crank pulley and install my socket adapter to rotate the engine for convertor bolt installation. Starter bolted up and I should be able to affix the cables to the solenoid from above before re-installing the passenger header.

[HandOverFist]

Very near to firing it for the first time guys. Some minor wiring to finish up in the engine bay and at the fuel cell.

[FireSale]

Looks very neat and clean, Rich. I like the headers a lot. I've busted more knuckles than I have on hard lines under the hood for brakes and would love to go to braided SS like you have. Any trouble with that setup?

Dale

[HandOverFist]

I havent driven the car yet Dale, but I don't anticipate any problems with the brake system.

[HandOverFist]

Engine was fired today for the first time. Had a water leak from a block drain to contend with right off the bat...also the doubled valve cover gaskets leaked badly. I will bond/swap them out in the morning for some cork replacements.

Had to re-stab the distributor one time to bring it in time...speaking of timing, I need to learn how to program this Anderson PMS controller. I'm thinking the distributor needs to be zeroed and use the PMS to advance. Will load what info I have on hand into a laptop and take it with me tm.

The engine has a healthy snarl and snappy response...hope it won't take long to dial it in.

[partsbob67]

set base timing to 10 degrees. pms adds 15 to make it 25. any more you want you add from the hand held controller.

[HandOverFist]

Can't seem to get it to idle clean. With the TPS at idle spec it will not idle on it's own at all...have to feather the throttle. I can get it to hold an idle by screwing in the throttle body butterfly adjuster, but then the TPS is open about 2 percent.

Running a MAF sensor calibrated for 24 pound injectors. It's running way rich at idle, but can't seem to take away enough fuel to lean it down. Regulator currently set at 40psi.

Also found the alternator is not charging...don't know if that is having any effect or not. Looking for some wiring schematics right now to troubleshoot that problem.

[HandOverFist]

Got the skinny on my problems with the engine from Brian. I need to run a manifold vacuum line to the regulator...currently at 40psi, the computer thinks the engine is at WOT at all times therefore the rich idle. I also need to re-install the deleted IAC valve on the throttle body so it can get more air than what is allowed thru the butterfly alone. Timing.procedure was already in place and not part of the problem. I did find a loose connection on the starter relay which may explain the lack of charging...will see on the next fire-up.