Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question

[impstocker]

These are the upper bushings I used in my 68 Impala I/S car. I got them from my friend Pat Henneberry, an old school racer from the sixties. he had these bronze bushing stock (which he used on his 68 Camaro Modified car which is still raced today) which I just had to chuck up on a lathe and cut to size for a press fit plus increase the center hole a little. These will be going in my 65 Impala stocker I am building now. These cost me $0 The front lower control arm bushing was a aluminum round stock which I chucked up on the lathe and machine to fit, pressed fit a bronze center bushing for the bolt to go through, which I also just added a grease fitting, they worked too. I have to make a new set for the 65 Impala.

Another high tech are the solid body bushings simply made out of that same aluminum round stock. They are 1/2 inch shorter than stock, effectively "lowering" the body 1/2 over the frame.

I am glad I hang around guys like my friend Pat, they started racing when there wasn't a "Global West" or an Alf fella making all the parts for you. I fabricated a lot of parts and learned how to use a lathe, bridgeports and welders along the way. my 68 Impala was the first race car I built, people said It would be a parts breaker at 4100 lbs with a stick. Even though i only made 100 passes on car, no breakage with 7 tenths under.

Will Lamprecht
1965 Impala H/I Stck

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

Most people remove old bushings with a blunt air chisel after putting rust penetrant on the areas where the bushings are pressed onto the arms. It is fairly common for the holes in the arms to be a little out of square, either factory, from use, or after removing the old bushings. You will find out when you try the solid steel bushings; bushings with soft inserts mask the issue. You may have to open up the holes in the arms a little, tack weld the outer bushing sleeves, and check for alignment with a 1/2" rod and the inner sleeves. Then you bend the ends of the arms until alignment is perfect. Upper arm bushings are often one piece and you just weld the bushings in as best you can, after opening up the holes in the arms enough to achieve perfect alignment. Press fit is OK if you end up with perfect alignment, and that may not happen. Use either high pressure chassis grease or moly cam lube on the friction surfaces.

I can do all these checks and will. Thanks for the tips.

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by impstocker

These are the upper bushings I used in my 68 Impala I/S car. I got them from my friend Pat Henneberry, an old school racer from the sixties. he had these bronze bushing stock (which he used on his 68 Camaro Modified car which is still raced today) which I just had to chuck up on a lathe and cut to size for a press fit plus increase the center hole a little. These will be going in my 65 Impala stocker I am building now. These cost me $0 The front lower control arm bushing was a aluminum round stock which I chucked up on the lathe and machine to fit, pressed fit a bronze center bushing for the bolt to go through, which I also just added a grease fitting, they worked too. I have to make a new set for the 65 Impala.

Another high tech are the solid body bushings simply made out of that same aluminum round stock. They are 1/2 inch shorter than stock, effectively "lowering" the body 1/2 over the frame.

I am glad I hang around guys like my friend Pat, they started racing when there wasn't a "Global West" or an Alf fella making all the parts for you. I fabricated a lot of parts and learned how to use a lathe, bridgeports and welders along the way. my 68 Impala was the first race car I built, people said It would be a parts breaker at 4100 lbs with a stick. Even though i only made 100 passes on car, no breakage with 7 tenths under.

Will Lamprecht
1965 Impala H/I Stck

Thanks for telling me how you did it. I can get bushings like you show from National Bronze or McMaster Carr and machine to fit as well. I have been tailing around with my Dad for as long as I can remember (I'm 34) and asking questions as much as possible.Chassis shops, engines shops, tranny shops, race tracks, etc. I want to learn it all and I am not afraid to ask the 'stupid' question to try and do so. No one knows it all, but I am also willing to pass on any knowledge that I learn, to make good karma to get some new knowledge.

[Sean Marconette]

Originally Posted by Andy

I want to learn it all and I am not afraid to ask the 'stupid' question to try and do so. No one knows it all, but I am also willing to pass on any knowledge that I learn, to make good karma to get some new knowledge.

Andy,
That right there is the key! Anyone that states they have done it all and knows it all. Has not done anything and doesn't know ###t either. There are a lot of good people here to help you.

Good luck

Sean

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by Sean Marconette

Andy,
That right there is the key! Anyone that states they have done it all and knows it all. Has not done anything and doesn't know ###t either. There are a lot of good people here to help you.

Good luck

Sean

Thanks Sean!

[impstocker]

Andy, one thing I learned, I wanted to go Drag Racing, so I hung around drag racers, not baseball players, then I remained open, ask questions and overall remain teachable! When i think I know everything, I'm in trouble.

I also went to the track and looked at cars like mine. really looked, under and everything. Most everybody loves to talk about there cars and like to help. When i started running my 68 with the Jerico and McCleod clutch Jeff Lee (w the AMX) who post all the time on this forum helped me a lot, now i am looking for some help on how to run an Automatic successfully-

I try to run my life remaining teachable too- your on the right track-
Good Luck
Will
"Big 'ole chevy stocker" 65 Impala

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by impstocker

These are the upper bushings I used in my 68 Impala I/S car. I got them from my friend Pat Henneberry, an old school racer from the sixties. he had these bronze bushing stock (which he used on his 68 Camaro Modified car which is still raced today) which I just had to chuck up on a lathe and cut to size for a press fit plus increase the center hole a little. These will be going in my 65 Impala stocker I am building now. These cost me $0 The front lower control arm bushing was a aluminum round stock which I chucked up on the lathe and machine to fit, pressed fit a bronze center bushing for the bolt to go through, which I also just added a grease fitting, they worked too. I have to make a new set for the 65 Impala.

Another high tech are the solid body bushings simply made out of that same aluminum round stock. They are 1/2 inch shorter than stock, effectively "lowering" the body 1/2 over the frame.

I am glad I hang around guys like my friend Pat, they started racing when there wasn't a "Global West" or an Alf fella making all the parts for you. I fabricated a lot of parts and learned how to use a lathe, bridgeports and welders along the way. my 68 Impala was the first race car I built, people said It would be a parts breaker at 4100 lbs with a stick. Even though i only made 100 passes on car, no breakage with 7 tenths under.

Will Lamprecht
1965 Impala H/I Stck

Will, only problem I see with solid lowers is you can't pull the lower ball joint forward to gain positive caster..You'll have to do it all on the top.
Just hope that both side "center" in the same place.
You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension.
Take a look at some of the stuff for early Mustangs or Chevy II's
One other thing..THICKER body bushings give you more room between the carb and the hood.

[Chipper Chapman]

"Will, only problem I see with solid lowers is you can't pull the lower ball joint forward to gain positive caster..You'll have to do it all on the top.
Just hope that both side "center" in the same place.
You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension.
Take a look at some of the stuff for early Mustangs or Chevy II's"

Doesn't apply to the chevelle. They use a conventional lower a-arm, no strut rod. You could get tricky and offset the center bore of the bushing if need be however.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Chipper Chapman

"Will, only problem I see with solid lowers is you can't pull the lower ball joint forward to gain positive caster..You'll have to do it all on the top.
Just hope that both side "center" in the same place.
You really want a ball type pivot on the bottom with a strut rod type suspension.
Take a look at some of the stuff for early Mustangs or Chevy II's"

Doesn't apply to the chevelle. They use a conventional lower a-arm, no strut rod. You could get tricky and offset the center bore of the bushing if need be however.

I know this Chipper .
I'm quoting Will with the full size 65 Impala

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by impstocker

Andy, one thing I learned, I wanted to go Drag Racing, so I hung around drag racers, not baseball players, then I remained open, ask questions and overall remain teachable! When i think I know everything, I'm in trouble.

I also went to the track and looked at cars like mine. really looked, under and everything. Most everybody loves to talk about there cars and like to help. When i started running my 68 with the Jerico and McCleod clutch Jeff Lee (w the AMX) who post all the time on this forum helped me a lot, now i am looking for some help on how to run an Automatic successfully-

I try to run my life remaining teachable too- your on the right track-
Good Luck
Will
"Big 'ole chevy stocker" 65 Impala

Thanks Will!