Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil

[Rusty Davenport]

OK on my 70 Nova 350 stocker build, I have the new motor in, fired it up with the Gibbs break in oil for 25-30 minutes at 2000 rpms using the low tension valve springs. Changed the filter and replaced the lost break in oil. Any thoughts out there about letting the break in oil stay in it and running it some with the new springs or does the break in oil need to come out now that the initial break in time is done ??? Any opinions on where to go from here ??? Is there a rush to get the break in oil out ???

[Bob Gullett]

I use the Valvoline Race Oil 10-30 non synthetic. Lots of zinc. But it doesn't hurt to run the break in oil.

[Ed Wright]

No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil.
I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up.

[Michael Compton]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil.
I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up.

^^^^^^^ Ed is correct. That is exactly what I have been told also. I was running the lightweight stuff and will be switching to BR30 full-time next year. My engine builder just tore my motor down and said to switch to BR30 as the internals did not look good. We even spin the oil pump over via a drill before we ever start the car, still no help.

[Tom Meyer]

The gibbs oil .has a lot of paraffin's [wax] if you do not have heat In the motor it gums up the fine microns in the filter. This starves... some places in the engine and causes problems.TOM

[Ed Wright]

Zero-10wt Royal Purple is the only oil I would run cold. Never tried to run anything else without putting some heat in it. Patterson puts Gibbs (now Driven) oil in his Comp & SS stuff. I use the BR30 (5W30 wt break-in oil) with no problems. If you drain it cold, it leaves a lot of stuff black in your pan. I like to warm it up, or drain it not long after shutting it off. Black stuff is still in suspension. I haven't tested the zero wt Gibb's/Driven oil yet. Alan Patterson says it's good, so I am sure it is. I run my clearances on the right side. Loose engines seem more forgiving to me. Just what I have seen with my junk. Can't afford to have it done, so cobble my junk together myself.

[Sean Marconette]

Have you guys ever tried the Brad Penn Green Stuff 10W-30 oil? It has a lot of zinc.

[Michael Compton]

I was using the XP1 (5w20) all year and had the end result of oil related issues. I know it leaves black stuff in the pan and have seen the wax/paraffin suspended in the bottle. Once you shake it up, it breaks up and goes away.

Anyone tried running Mobil 1 5w20? I assume there would be nothing wrong with running it.

[Paul Merolla]

Originally Posted by Michael Compton

I was using the XP1 (5w20) all year and had the end result of oil related issues. I know it leaves black stuff in the pan and have seen the wax/paraffin suspended in the bottle. Once you shake it up, it breaks up and goes away.

Anyone tried running Mobil 1 5w20? I assume there would be nothing wrong with running it.

I ran the Mobil 1 5w20 last season, about 70 runs (changed it halfway through) and the bearings look great. Will be running it again next year...it's nice because O'Reillys is 3 blocks from home and they sell it in the 5 qt. jugs.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I have had good luck with Lucas break in and race, Brad-Penn is really good oil also. Will know how good Lucas is in few days when tear in Randall's truck it has 400+ runs on it ,all Lucas 30wt.
Mike Taylor 3601