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Old 11-30-2020, 04:20 PM   #91
Stan Weiss
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

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Originally Posted by Doug Hoven View Post
After some research, this is about 12.8-12.9 in terms of afr.

Doug,
Am I confused? Isn't output voltage like lambda?
.8 = 11.76:1
.9 = 13.23:1


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Old 11-30-2020, 04:29 PM   #92
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan Weiss View Post
Doug,
Am I confused? Isn't output voltage like lambda?
.8 = 11.76:1
.9 = 13.23:1


Stan
It's the voltage on the 02 sensor as reported in the software. .450 is stoic
Target on NA is like .850 wot in PE or power enrichment mode.
A lot of tuners using the HP Tuners logging set up an Analog input from another wide band for a better Air Fuel ratio log.
Older factory ECU's are narrow band 02 sensors. . More modern are wide bands
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Old 11-30-2020, 04:47 PM   #93
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

From what I understand, this era of gm cars are fitted with "narrowband" o2 sensor, and there is no direct scale from the o2 voltage reading shown by the ecu to either forms of afr. Like mentioned above, .45 volts is "stoich," and when it is around .85, that should be somewhere around 13:1.
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Old 11-30-2020, 05:02 PM   #94
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

Robin and Doug,
Thank you


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Old 12-05-2020, 04:18 PM   #95
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

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Old 12-05-2020, 08:20 PM   #96
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Default Re: Not for Nuthin' But Close!

Hows the progress coming Billy ?
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Old 12-06-2020, 08:37 AM   #97
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Well, I guess that depends on what you consider progress. I'm pretty sure that we are done racing for the year. I've taken the cooling system apart to try and understand it so that I can come up with a way to cool it with some kind of an electric pump. A header is in the works. I have access to a trans with the best final drive ratio and I'll probably take the converter too. I haven't been able to find out much on converters yet but I haven't spent a lot of time looking. I'm sure that certain models will have different stall speeds based on weights and gear ratios. The engine has 120K miles on it and it is blowing a good amount of oil smoke and I'm being "pressured" to re-build or replace it (in my spare time).
I can't say enough how thankful I am for Doug Hoven taking some time to "play" with this project. Without him, I would be totally lost.
It would be awfully nice to see a hard-core Mopar Racer step up (in his spare time) and build a 2.0 Neon just to see how it's done. Same way, junkyard refugee, see what it'll do (the Cavalier will kick it's butt!).
It would also be nice to see someone get some later-model FFFords in the guide so that it could be seen how they would stack up.
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Old 12-06-2020, 04:37 PM   #98
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On rebuild, go back to a gm dealer for all of your parts they have best prices and good parts. Gm head gaskets are thinner than aftermarkets. The head responded to more air flow with less valve angle [30*] on a flow bench but never did a back to back on dyno.
But I am sure a good stocker valve job would help. For cooling just take the middle of the thermostat out run a wire to the cooling relay to a toggle switch and you will keep it under 140 all day. I think you could keep this dime rocket build under a nickel. We have a lot of spare parts if you need anything let me know. We have a claim rule that another racer can claim your whole car for 1500. dollars so you have do builds as cheep as possible. Tom
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:20 PM   #99
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We have a claim rule that another racer can claim your whole car for 1500. dollars so you have do builds as cheep as possible. Tom
Now THAT is a rule I would LOVE to see in STOCK Eliminator!!!!! But if that ever came to be, my life expectancy would be measured in minutes.
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Old 12-07-2020, 11:47 PM   #100
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More stuff. Did you know that cavilers had three different spring packages for ride and handling. I think you could keep your weak springs in the front but go with heavier in the rear or stack 1/2 washers under the rear rear strut mounts and adding spring rubbers too, keeping more to the front and giving the car some front rake. Also make sure your rear struts are not leaking and are hard to compress. If you are doing stuff too the trans, welding the spiders may be a option, but you will have to get the front alignment right so it rolls easy. More to come. Tom
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