Lifter rule in Stock

[Dwight Southerland]

I seriously doubt if there is much advantage for people who are maxed out on camshaft technology on their hydraulic lifters. The ramp profiles on those cams are taking assuming that after .015" lifter rise, the lifters are solid anyway. You might be able to speed up the first 6-10 degrees of the ramp a bit with a solid lifter and drop it a bit quicker. One thing for sure, there will be a lot of camshafts sold next year!

[Bob Mulry]

Hi,

I don't see a performance improvement with solid flat tappet lifters to replace hydraulic flat tappet lifters.............

A solid lifter would still have to modified to work with the spring pressures that a run now.....

The ramps are so fast that they almost hit the edge of the lifter now.....

If you ran tool steel, shoeboxes or whatever hydraulic lifters you would still need the same type of treatment or design to make it live......

The main advantages that I can see are a lower price for solids over hydraulics and if you wished, an EDM hole could be used for addition oil supply....

That said.............

How about allowing the front battery in stock to be relocated to the trunk so that you haven't a hot battery lead that is 12' long going from the battery disconnect to the front battery. Even with the disconnect off the 12' long battery cable that is capable of carrying more than 500 amps straight to ground if the cable is damaged is hot...If something bad happened and the fuel system were damaged and leaking the battery and cable are still in the engine compartment and hot..........

Just my thoughts because it would make the cars safer, easier to wire and lighter....

Thanks,
Bob

[Mike Gray]

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry

Hi,

How about allowing the front battery in stock to be relocated to the trunk so that you haven't a hot battery lead that is 12' long going from the battery disconnect to the front battery. Even with the disconnect off the 12' long battery cable that is capable of carrying more than 500 amps straight to ground if the cable is damaged is hot...If something bad happened and the fuel system were damaged and leaking the battery and cable are still in the engine compartment and hot..........

Just my thoughts because it would make the cars safer, easier to wire and lighter....

Thanks,
Bob

I thought a battery disconnect was not necessary for a single front mounted battery?

[Eric Merryfield]

NHRA tech department clarifies recent lifter rule change

The change is to allow the use of a solid lifter in place of a hydraulic; you may not replace a flat tappet with a roller.

So what effect if any would there be on a 1993 build chrysler hydraulic lifter on a 383 big block. I assume new valve springs would be needed. Didn't change the rockers, still original as delivered.

Thanks

Eric

[Coleydog]

Originally Posted by Eric Merryfield

NHRA tech department clarifies recent lifter rule change

The change is to allow the use of a solid lifter in place of a hydraulic; you may not replace a flat tappet with a roller.

So what effect if any would there be on a 1993 build chrysler hydraulic lifter on a 383 big block. I assume new valve springs would be needed. Didn't change the rockers, still original as delivered.

Thanks

Eric

Can't see why new springs would be needed, better have adjustable rockers though. I thinking solids are lighter than hyd. anyway. Also a lot cheaper.

[Dan Fahey]

I am glad I run Pure Stock!
Old Stock without any of today's issues!
D

[Dave Noll]

Originally Posted by Mike Gray

I thought a battery disconnect was not necessary for a single front mounted battery?

No, not for a single front. But with a front mounted and a rear mounted batteries, the disconnect has to kill a running engine.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Probably 95% of hydraulic cam stockers have solid lifters already and have had for many years,they just have .015'' travel in the pushrod seat and are considered hydraulic by the rules,it is a solid lifter with the pushrod seat cut for .015'' travel,nothing hydraulic about it and .010-.012'' of that travel is taken out when the valve is set depending on lash the lifter is compressing .003-.005'' the only difference is the lash is between the pushrod seat and lifter body rather than between the cam and lifter.
This rule doesn't change the need for ceramic,tool steel or whatever kind of special lifter is being used,it doesn't change the cam profiles they are already solid lifter profiles.
Only thing it changes is a hyd. roller that has a true hyd. roller lifter which has probably been modified to only have .015'' travel will now be able to take them out and replace with a much lighter solid roller lifter,which won't make any difference because they are already running a spring strong enough to handle the extra lifter weight,so maybe they get a few more runs out of their springs.
Nothing to get excited about.
Mike Taylor 3601

[cmracing]

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry

Hi,

I don't see a performance improvement with solid flat tappet lifters to replace hydraulic flat tappet lifters.............

A solid lifter would still have to modified to work with the spring pressures that a run now.....

The ramps are so fast that they almost hit the edge of the lifter now.....

If you ran tool steel, shoeboxes or whatever hydraulic lifters you would still need the same type of treatment or design to make it live......

The main advantages that I can see are a lower price for solids over hydraulics and if you wished, an EDM hole could be used for addition oil supply....

That said.............

How about allowing the front battery in stock to be relocated to the trunk so that you haven't a hot battery lead that is 12' long going from the battery disconnect to the front battery. Even with the disconnect off the 12' long battery cable that is capable of carrying more than 500 amps straight to ground if the cable is damaged is hot...If something bad happened and the fuel system were damaged and leaking the battery and cable are still in the engine compartment and hot..........

Just my thoughts because it would make the cars safer, easier to wire and lighter....

Thanks,
Bob

I wire a car the "correct" way so there is no "hot wire" from front to back when the switch is off in the back with a front-mounted battery also. PITA, a lot of extra time and $$$, but it is legal, it works, and kills the engine when the switch is pushed in.

[ALMACK]

Originally Posted by cmracing

I wire a car the "correct" way so there is no "hot wire" from front to back when the switch is off in the back with a front-mounted battery also. PITA, a lot of extra time and $$$, but it is legal, it works, and kills the engine when the switch is pushed in.

I agree ^^
All my cars with rear mounted batteries are wired this way. That big fat welding cable running up the side of car is only hot when the starter is kicking over.

Years ago I wired a rear mounted battery the way NHRA shows and that fat wire shorted out and caught on fire. Bad idea.

Ever since then I have wired it this way in the diagram... the correct and safest way...( note that the switch still kills every functioning item on the car when switched off )