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05-29-2016, 06:03 PM | #1 |
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350/255HP Help please
Can anyone help me out a bit in knowing what my 350/255 stocker motor should be making for power and what rpm range it should be peaking at? I've been beating my head off the wall with this thing for a few years now and just dosen't want to get any better. I'm thinking I may have the wrong cam in it but really don't know where to turn next. Thanks.
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Chris Chapman 1969 Chevelle NHRA F-G/SA 1090 |
05-29-2016, 08:26 PM | #2 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Assuming no obvious issues, a couple of pulls on a dyno can save you lots of time.
What kind of h.p. numbers are you getting when calculating from the E.T.?
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05-29-2016, 08:47 PM | #3 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Made 387 @ 5600 on A&J dyno. 100% new engine except for the cam as it was like new and only a couple seasons old. The worn out peice I had before made 384. The slide calculator agrees with this. A little background info, it's got all what's supposed to be great gear, .065 over cp c6 Pistons with total seal advantage ring pack, Manley rods, new heads from reputable shop that flow quite well, pac 1409x springs, bullet cam, short travel lifters etc.eal down is 8-9% cold, we've had it apart again to make sure nothing is going away or getting tight and all is well. It's just not adding up, and it's beginning to make my head hurt lol.
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Chris Chapman 1969 Chevelle NHRA F-G/SA 1090 |
05-29-2016, 08:55 PM | #4 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Are you saying the leakdown is 8 to 9%????
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05-29-2016, 09:19 PM | #5 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Not trying to be ugly but that combo should make north of 430. How "new" are pistons? Most likely the problem is the ring package. Having said that I am not an engine builder nor do I build my own motors but I have been around stock for all my life and fairly up to date with what it takes to make them run.
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05-29-2016, 09:28 PM | #6 | |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Quote:
Last edited by HP HUNTER; 05-29-2016 at 09:32 PM. |
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05-29-2016, 09:32 PM | #7 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
You're down 35HP or more, and your peak is maybe 600RPM or more low.
If you're really leaking close to 10% on an engine that is up to 160 degrees, you're not sealed up. I seriously doubt that either Total Seal or CP has missed the mark on the rings or pistons, especially if you had them work together. I've used their stuff successfully many times.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
05-29-2016, 10:16 PM | #8 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
He said "Cold" Leak. That never has told me anything. I don't race Cold Engines... Could have bad ex seats and when it gets hot they go away..... Just Saying...
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Adger Smith (Former SS) Last edited by Adger Smith; 05-29-2016 at 10:17 PM. Reason: sp |
05-29-2016, 10:21 PM | #9 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
Agreed. Cold leak down is useless. Honestly, on these engines, you need to be using a Dwyer gauge, or something, to test blow by on the dyno. Leakdown, even hot, can be misleading. Measuring blow by eliminates all of that.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
05-29-2016, 11:40 PM | #10 |
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Re: 350/255HP Help please
If its a junkyard block 384 is not that bad,if its leaking more than 6% you got problems, Call Greg at race rings get his ringpack give him the grove dept,and he will fix you up get it honed with a plate . Cam should be in at 103-104 with a three speed.spring pressure around 145 -385 with reg lifters. Bowtie should pick you up 20. good luck.Not all dynos are the same.
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