U/SA 302 ffffford build

[goinbroke2]

In other news....I ordered the adjustable upper rear control arms and the grill that goes in the hood scoop from LMR. I checked the pinion angle and it's around 3-4* down, but this will let me adjust for what works best.

I think I'll have to get a decal made that says "I've never spent so much to go so slow" !! LOL!!!

[Cglrcng]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

One step ahead, numerous back.....

I was building my bracket car to get it back on the track after 25+ years and did most of the work, then decided to build it into a stocker.

So, fuel system is complete and working now, but now for a stocker I have to pull the gas tank and install a fuel cell so it will be easier to swap from high test to race fuel when required. Also have to install a bleeder port for the fuel testing. Also, at one time I ran 2 4bbls and although one port is blocked off, I will have to move the fuel lines on the fender well.

Dual batteries and master switch all done, ready to go...but a stocker needs a battery in the front so I'll need to find a battery tray and configure the master to work with a batt in front and a batt in the rear (or just say heck with it and run one batt??)

With the rule on flex plates, I'll have to get one and install it. (didn't need as a bracket car)

On and on it goes and with all the snow and me being plow operator/tech, been hard to get back on the mustang when I'm working on snow equipment as well as the wife's off road truck.

And the whole "posting on the internet instead of being in the garage working because it's so cold out" is having a negative effect as well! LOL!!

I will caution you that switching your fuel system from pump gasto race gas and back (and actually passing a fuel ck is not as easy as it seems, but you can do it if properly prepared. It is a real big pain to do, and at today's prices it is an expensive waste of good race gas.

In 1994 I tried w/ the stock gas tank, my system is single point injector EFI, fuel ran from in tank pump w/sock, to TBI hat, to injector top inlet screen/pinter, then to attached regulator, then a quarter inch return line to the tank.

By disconnecting up front lines from Throttle Body, creating and inserting a "temp U-Line connection, plugging into the diag. Port for the ECM to add a switch to temp override the ECM 10 sec key on prime feature for the fuel pump I could both take samples, and could also just circulate the fuel through the system, or drain the tank/lines
completely from under hood area.

1994 First Divisional race of the year, drive in on pump gas, drained the tank and lines completely of the pump gas I drove the car in on then added 2-3 gals of VP C-12 race gas and went for pre-race fuel ck....And failed the ck, oxygenation additives put the ck out of whack (to this day, and I drove the car all over the country in 1995. Then 96, and 97, to many, many events on pump gas, after properly being shown how to wash the system to remove the oxygenation additives, the only fuel ck I ever failed was that 1st 1).

A great NHRA Div. 7 man taught me how. Drain the tank and lines fully. Then get a single gallon or 2 of red diesel, add the diesel to the tank or cell, bounce the rear of the car to splash that as high on tank or cell sides as you can, then you need to cycle flush all your lines for 10-20 mins circulating the red diesel through the lines to wash them, and do not allow the diesel to enter carbs, throttle bodies, etc.

Drain the tank and lines again fully, then add 2 gals of race gas to the tank and wash 10 mins again (circulating that new race gas to wash the system of diesel, and drain again...save the diesel and that now dirty race gas, both can be used for future washes).

Now add 2 gals of clean new race gas, rehook the system back up, check for leaks, and head for a fuel pre-ck. You will have burned up an hr. to an hr/1/2 of time, and will pass the ck....after the event I simply drained and sold the race
gas left, or carried it on to next event.

Add back the orig. Pump gas and fire it up. (But, once you do, the wash of the system will be necessary again).

I drove track to track all over in 1995 doing that, a huge pain in the rear, but it is doable. But, since my engine rebuild, adding a 5 gal. Cell, removing the tank, pump gas has not been introduced to the system period as race gas is no longer $7.00 a gal., and diesel is getting nowhere near those new Ross pistons or Sealed Pro ringsets.

If it has pump gas in it now, my suggestion is do the first wash at home, then add race gas, then get a pre-ck before your 1st Q1 round (with plenty of time to wash it again if necessary, and come pre-prepared!) Also bring a fresh set of plugs pre-gapped to throw in it.

Good luck brother.

[Cglrcng]

Really sry about the book above, but I was screwed in 1994 as 1). I did not know the answers. 2). Fuel ck was open a day before. 3). That tech guy was great, knew how to resolve my issue, sold me a brand new 2.5 gal fuel container out of his own truck, then called & arranged a Las Vegas track maintenance employee to secure and sell me for cash 2 gallons of red diesel out of a temp lighting unit on the property, then stay with me teaching me the system wash procedure until I passed. Luckily there was time the day before Q1 to complete it.

Today, you are not even assured that the scale will be manned, ckd., and accurate or fuel ck will be open after pitting. And Q1 comes early in the AM.

[Rory McNeil]

Concerning switching to race gas for fuel check, on my 85 Mustang Stocker, I retained the factory steel gas tank, and for running non LODRS or National events, I would run Chevron mid grade pump gas, which was usually 3 to 4 hundreths quicker than C12 in my low compression, carbed 302, mainly because in Canada, VP C12 was over 20 bucks a gallon. Before getting ready to enter a NHRA Divisional or National event, I would run the fuel pump with the line to the carb running into a fuel jug, until it stopped pumping, then I would add a couple of gallons of C12, and pump that out, then leave the gas cap off, to "air out" for at least an hour, then add more fresh C12, and then load the car up for the trip to the track. Maybe I was just lucky, but I never failed fuel check doing this method.Your results may vary.