8 3/4 Center Section

[426Fred]

I am requesting recommendations on where I can purchase a new 8 3/4 center section set up for a stock eliminator car. Looking for 4.88 gear set, spool, etc.


Thanks for checking this out

[Jim Wahl]

Fred, I found one on Ebay! Jim

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[Jeff Teuton]

I think I have a center section complete and a whole rear axle assembly. Good Stuff. Good price. Email me. jefft@southlanddodge.com

[Jim Wahl]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-8-3-4-...hWaGed&vxp=mtr

[Larry Hill]

I believe a dana 60 is faster than 8 3/4 and last longer. Bought mine in 1991 and still great. I look at R and P every two years and it is still good.

[Myron Piatek]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

I believe a dana 60 is faster than 8 3/4 and last longer. Bought mine in 1991 and still great. I look at R and P every two years and it is still good.

A Dana 60 is more "efficient", so it makes up for any weight disadvantage it has against an 8 3/4". (9" is the worst and 12 bolt is the best of the popular HD rears. Don't recall if 10 bolt was compared.) I would have gotten a Dana 60 for my small block cars if I knew what gear I'd end up with and could afford the lump-sum purchase of the whole rear.

[Jeff Teuton]

I got one of them too complete with a 5.13 I think. (Dana)

[Dwight Southerland]

Hypoid offset distance (distance the pinion gear is from the centerline of the axles) on a Dana 60 is the least of all the popular race rear ends. 9" Ford is the greatest. The greater the distance, the greater the angle of the pinion gear teeth making more friction. Here are some hypoid offset specs for you numbers people:

12-bolt Chev, 8.8 Ford, 8 3/4" Mopar, 8.5 10-bolt Chev - 1.50"
Dana 60, Dana 44 - 1.125"
9" Ford - 2.25"


Recently, I was helping to build a Dana 60 for a friend and he had an opportunity to buy a brand new empty housing. Out of curiosity, I weighed the housing when he brought it to me and then weighed an empty 12 bolt '67 Chevelle housing in my shop. There was only 12 lbs difference.

[DonatoEng]

Moser has new 8 3/4 castings and can build them up. Been using them for some time with no issues.

[Rory McNeil]

[QUOTE=Dwight Southerland


Recently, I was helping to build a Dana 60 for a friend and he had an opportunity to buy a brand new empty housing. Out of curiosity, I weighed the housing when he brought it to me and then weighed an empty 12 bolt '67 Chevelle housing in my shop. There was only 12 lbs difference.[/QUOTE]
Agreed, when I switched my bracket car from an automatic to a Jerico 4 speed, I felt the 9" I had would marginal without replacing just about everything. Pricing it all out, it was cheaper to build a new Dana 60 that upgrade my 9". So before I sold the 9", I weighed it. And when it was finished, we weighed the Dana 60, The Dana was only 6 lbs heavier. AND, that was with the 9" having 33 spline axles, a factory Ford N case, and an early non braced housing. The Dana had 35 spline axles, and was a truck housing with thick axle tubes. I`m sure if I would have braced the 9" , bought a Strange iron case, plus bigger 35 spline axles, the weight would have been about identical. Both rear ends were the same width, and used the same brakes. I know the 9" could have been lighter with an aluminum case, but that would have added more cost. And in 15 years since the change, the Dana gears still look mint. I have never raced a car with a 8 3/4, but I do know many guys who have, and it seems most of them have dealt with broken gear sets for years, before biting the bullet, and switching to a Dana, or a 9" if legal. The only downside to a Dana 60 is ratio selection and availability in the steeper ratios, but I don`t know that the 8 3/4 is any better in that regard. I think the mindset that the Dana 60 is terribly heavy is when in a street car, the limited slip unit is about 40 lbs, but a Dana spool is about the same weight as a 8 3/4 or 9" spool. A drop out rear like a 8 3/4 or 9" is nice if you have extra chunks already setup with different ratios.